UKC

HMS Carabiner Flex

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 Fobbit169 04 Jul 2020

Hey,

Having not been out in a while I took the opportunity a few days ago to head up into the Peaks. I decided to top rope a couple of climbs to get back into the swing of it.

I used a new carabiner to run the rope through. As I was setting up to ab down I put my weight onto the rope and was watching the carabiner, It seemed to flex pretty heavily under load. I had never seen this before or at least not to such a large degree. I inspected the carabiner and it seemed that there was a small gap between the gate and the metal which allows it to flex. It is rated to 22kN. I've included a photo, the gap is small but the flex it allows is quite a large amount. The gap is definitely large than all my other carabiners.

It concerned me enough to remove it and replace with some other HMSs I had (I also had a mini word with myself for not doubling it up in the first place).

My question is has tech moved on to allow flex to absorb shock or could it be a design flaw?

Thanks


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 JoshOvki 04 Jul 2020
In reply to Fobbit169:

Fair sure it is normal if from a reputable brand from a known source. What is it rated to with the gate open? On the spine there should be 3 ratings, normal use 22kN, but there will be cross loaded and gate open. Normally this value is a lot lower but still solid for most things

OP Fobbit169 04 Jul 2020
In reply to JoshOvki:

It is a brand you would recognise (UIAA certified). 10kN cross loaded and 8kN open.

cp123 04 Jul 2020
In reply to Fobbit169:

Carabiners flex all the time and they are designed to. Without the flexing the nose of the carabiner will not engage with the gate.

If you have ever tried slack lining with climbing carabiners you will see when the line is under tension the carabiner will not open, or if it does it will not shut again due to the flex.

 GrahamD 04 Jul 2020
In reply to Fobbit169:

Its why you should never do up the collar of a screwgate with it under load.  When the load comes off, it seizes up the collar.

 JoshOvki 04 Jul 2020
In reply to Fobbit169:

In that case fine and normal, you just wouldn't see it if it wasn't a "keylock" nose.

 Suncream 04 Jul 2020
In reply to GrahamD:

Is this true with modern screwgates where you can only do them up so far?

 GrahamD 04 Jul 2020
In reply to Suncream:

Possibly not, it's been a while since I've bought a screwgate !

 wbo2 04 Jul 2020
In reply to Jezzor and Graham:

 I've asssumed this was a design change to make the annoying scenario of a jammed on lock less likely.  Yes, flexing is normal

cp123 04 Jul 2020
In reply to GrahamD:

Its why it can be a real pain to undo carabiners at the top of indoor sport routes, as the last person did it up after clipping and loading it.


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