UKC

How long is your clipstick?

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 OliverR17 11 Aug 2018

I've been looking to push my sport grade recently, and decided that I'd prefer to fork out on a clipstick than potentially damage an ankle.

This got me wondering, how much does length matter? Any sport climbers out there wishing they had something a bit longer? Conversely, anyone wishing it was a bit shorter so it didn't catch every tree on the walk in?

 jalien 11 Aug 2018
In reply to OliverR17:

The standard betastick is ok, but I wouldn't want to go shorter, especially when hanging off one bolt, trying to clip the next. It's also trickier to handle precisely when fully extended at arm's length, so you don't want to rely on always using it at its limit.

 JamieSparkes Global Crag Moderator 11 Aug 2018
In reply to OliverR17:

It depends where you want to climb. I mostly use mine in the peak, and I'm glad that I got the longest one available. It's not as if you are forced to use it at maximum extension all the time, and it's certainly helpful to be able to drop the first few clips in a route beforehand. 

However, if you want to use it abroad, then buy the longest one which will fit in your usual hold bag.

 Mark Collins 12 Aug 2018
In reply to OliverR17:

I ended up getting the longest beta stick possible, to clip the first bolt on a route at kilnsey and even then I was having to fully extend it, causing it to flex some what and give the impression that I was attempting to land a big fish. I'm told that far away first bolts are to do with history but I don't really get it. Makes me wonder what foreign visitors make of it.

1
 1poundSOCKS 12 Aug 2018
In reply to Mark Collins:

> I ended up getting the longest beta stick possible, to clip the first bolt on a route at kilnsey and even then I was having to fully extend it, causing it to flex some what and give the impression that I was attempting to land a big fish. I'm told that far away first bolts are to do with history but I don't really get it.

If you mean Directissima, I think it's also the start of a trad route, which traverse left before you reach the bolt.

> Makes me wonder what foreign visitors make of it.

There are plenty of dangerously high first bolts abroad.

 jimtitt 12 Aug 2018
In reply to OliverR17:

Mine is 6m long. I climb in the Frankenjura.

In reply to OliverR17:

Got two of the new Beta clip sticks, which are much more robust than the old ones.

 an Ultra Compact 55 - 238cm for on the plane, or for bolt to bolting and an Ultra Long         113 - 648cm for the high starting bolts.

 Jeff Ingman 12 Aug 2018
In reply to OliverR17:

Mine is 4.8 metres long and I find it ideal for the Peak sports routes. It's made from 4 telescopic sections of a Decathlon 'roach pole' (from the fishing dept) with a home made carabiner holder at the business end. When used at arms length I can usually clip the second bolt on the routes that I'm after. It's 1.15m long when closed so a bit clumsy for the walk in, and it's never been oversees on a plane, only in the van. The roach pole cost about £6.

 Mark Collins 17 Aug 2018
In reply to 1poundSOCKS:

> > I ended up getting the longest beta stick possible, to clip the first bolt on a route at kilnsey and even then I was having to fully extend it, causing it to flex some what and give the impression that I was attempting to land a big fish. I'm told that far away first bolts are to do with history but I don't really get it.

> If you mean Directissima, I think it's also the start of a trad route, which traverse left before you reach the bolt.

> > Makes me wonder what foreign visitors make of it.

> There are plenty of dangerously high first bolts abroad.

Ah, that makes sense thanks

 GridNorth 17 Aug 2018
In reply to OliverR17:

Is this a euphemism?   On a more serious note, I've been carrying a cheating stick for several years and never felt a need to use it, indeed I didn't even put it on my harness except on a couple of occasions.  Anyway back in April on Kalymnos I set off up a route and noticed that the bolts were a little spaced. Looks like  potential panic stick situation I think so on the harness it goes.  When I got up there it became apparent the next bolt was also well off to the right making my decision to carry it a good one.  So there I am 3 metres above the last bolt on overhanging rock with a slab below and pulling out extra slack.  I'm not in any difficulty but as I stretch across to clip my pre-placed panic stick my foot slips and I plummet onto the slab below breaking my ankle in the process.  Moral of the story:  It's not how long it is that matters it's how you use it.

Al

Post edited at 15:43

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