UKC

I miss my 5.10 Pink’s

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 RR 17 May 2019

I miss my 5.10 Pink’s (UK 8.5.). Tried to order them on Adidas site on sale last weekend in the US. But no they don’t ship outside the US. Miura’s is now longtime my alternative, those are ok, but still miss the pink’s. Is there another shoe I should consider? with the same characteristics? I got still Verdes (way softer and also out of stock). I use la Sportiva TC’s and Testerossa’s.  ?Does any one know if the Anasazi Pink are coming back. ? Or is it just over with Five Ten.

GoneFishing111 17 May 2019
In reply to RR:

Tenaya Masai are similar i believe 

 joe.91 17 May 2019
In reply to RR:

Check out UnParallel shoes, made by the old guys that make 5.10 shoes. 

 MischaHY 17 May 2019
In reply to RR:

I actually linked the LV there but here is the regular fit: https://darkventures.co.uk/shop?olsPage=products%2Funparallel-lace 

My understanding is that they're very comparable. 

 Mike Highbury 17 May 2019
In reply to MischaHY:

> Here you go, new pinks! 

If only.

The colour is right, for sure. But the description sounds more like a white.

 naked ape 17 May 2019
In reply to RR:

Tenaya Masai are the closest I've found. Heel not totally perfect for me, but better than the pinks. Slightly stiffer, a bid more edgy too? 

 Paul Sagar 17 May 2019
In reply to RR:

Tenaya Masai - like the 5.10 pinks but 20 times better. 

3
OP RR 17 May 2019
In reply to joe.91 and all:

Thanks a bunch for all the replies. Will try both.

Next problem what size for the Tanaya Masai and the Unparallel Lace up.

It’s good to have a sense of size direction because I have to mail order different sizes. 

Here some sizes I use: Anasazi VC, Verdes and Pink I am 8.5 UK. Muira’s VC and lace 8.5 UK. Testerossa 8.5 UK performance and 9 UK for comfort.

 MischaHY 17 May 2019
In reply to Mike Highbury:

Having had a bit more of a read I'm inclined to agree. In that case, Tenaya Masai probably fits the box. 

 MischaHY 17 May 2019
In reply to RR:

Tenaya circa 1 size down from street. No idea with the unparallel but imagine it's similar to 5.10. 

 naked ape 17 May 2019
In reply to RR:

I'm 8 for Tanaya Masai and same for Anasazi pro. I think I was 8 for pinks and greens too.

88Dan 17 May 2019
In reply to RR:

I wish I had managed to find another pair of pinks or verdes in 8.5. The whites I have are great, but I had to get them a size bigger, they feel a touch tight and there is still a bit of dead space in the heel. How many more shoes will 5.10 bring out that are supposed to be such an improvement on the originals that still have the same inherent problem.

 PhilTimpotts 17 May 2019
In reply to RR:

There's a pair listed on a well known auction site right now...

 Paul Sagar 19 May 2019
In reply to RR:

Tenaya Masai: one full size down from street for a very snug fit, 1/2 size for more comfort/use on longer routes. They are superb shoes - just been using them on Stockholm granite and cannot speak highly enough of them. 

FWIW: Tenaya Oasi, exact same sizing as Scarpa instinct for me, i.e. two full sizes down from street (yes, I wear 5.5 climbing shoes because I have tiny little girl feet [and hands]). All the better to stand on edges with  

OP RR 20 May 2019
In reply to Paul Sagar:

Paul and all

EBay didn’t allow me to order from the continent.

In the end I found Pinks (in Canada), but the effort to get them is way beyond realistic (extra postage and custom taxes!). Not again. Besides that, if I am right then the rubber Adidas is using is different (=less sticky) from what was used before. 

Will order Tenaya Masai as an good alternative to the Pinks. As well as the Unparallel Lace Up. The rubber of Unparallel is promises to be even stickier then the original 5.10 rubber. 

With a smile: the numbers of my credit card are fading.

Thanks for all the answers.

 Paul Sagar 20 May 2019
In reply to RR:

I think you'll be pleased with the Masai! I have to say I was really disappointed with my last two pairs of 5.10 pinks: the first pair wore out far too quickly relative to the amount use they received, and the second paid was much bigger despite being officially the same size (very poor product control) and I also agree that the rubber is not up to snuff. Strongly suspect Adidas just scrimping on the production process. Far better to go for a dedicated company like Tenaya that seem genuinely committed to raising the bar in terms of climbing shoe quality.

 dinodinosaur 26 May 2019
In reply to RR:

https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/gear/anasazi_pinks_sold_out-700427

Edit: Last I checked needlesports stocked them

Post edited at 15:34
OP RR 26 May 2019

Thank you dinodinosaur:

The whole range of UnParallel shoes is obtainable at Darkventures (see link in MischHY’s post). I just ordered the Lace version at them. The sizing of the 8. 5 UK is bigger then I expected compared to the Anasazi UK 8.5 and the La  Sportiva Muira VS UK 8.5. So I had to order additional the UK 8 to decide which one is right to keep. Will notify here which one/size is comparable to others shoes I have size wise. The first impression is that the rubber feels nice. 

Also EpicTV a.k. as Bananafingers and probable Au Vieux Campeur, Sallanches sells them.

 HeMa 27 May 2019
In reply to RR:

That’s odd. You say that you use the same size with LaSpo and 5.10. I’m between eur 39.5-40.5 in LaSpo and either 42 or 42.5 on 5.10 for similar fit & performance (variance comes from different models).

oh and wear eur 42 for sneakers. 

OP RR 27 May 2019
In reply to HeMa:

Yes, sorry I can really not help it, but as as said earlier I use : For 5.10 Anasazi VC, Verdes and Pink I am 8.5 UK. Muira’s VC and lace 8.5 UK. Testerossa 8.5 UK performance and 9 UK for "comfort". For Evolve it is even bigger size differences (lace and slipper).

As you say variance comes from different models (and as well as I sometime notice a difference between the same shoe model).  

Happy climbing /R2

 Mr. Lee 30 May 2019
In reply to RR:

La Sportiva Kataki maybe, if LS generally fits you well? The fit in the toes is similar to the TC-Pros, only a bit more down-turned. They've been the most precise shoes that my giant boney feet have been able to tolerate. 

OP RR 31 May 2019
In reply to yllo :

Yello thanks a bunch. I ordered @ bananafingers two extra pair. 

OP RR 31 May 2019
In reply to Mr. Lee:

Big Lee I will try the Kataki a try next time I am in Sallanches (or in Paris cq Fontainebleau. I don't like to go into Paris even if it's raining). So if you can give an idea that will help a lot if I decide to mail order. Strange enough for the TC-pros I am UK 7.5 and for Muira VC UK 8.5.

How does the Kataki compare to the TC-pros size wise? Thanks/r2

 Mr. Lee 31 May 2019
In reply to RR:

Same size in TC-Pro and Kataki. The girlfriend also is the same in both shoes as well. 

 yllo 31 May 2019
In reply to RR:

Good to hear.

If they're as good as everyone says they are I'll have to buy another pair.

I now need to start a thread titled 'I miss my Moccs' 

In reply to Paul Sagar:

> I think you'll be pleased with the Masai! I have to say I was really disappointed with my last two pairs of 5.10 pinks: the first pair wore out far too quickly relative to the amount use they received, and the second paid was much bigger despite being officially the same size (very poor product control) and I also agree that the rubber is not up to snuff. Strongly suspect Adidas just scrimping on the production process. Far better to go for a dedicated company like Tenaya that seem genuinely committed to raising the bar in terms of climbing shoe quality.

I'm interested in these. Assuming the fit and feel are similar, do you find the rubber to be as good as the 5.10 stuff? ( is it a bit of a myth that 5.10 rubber is best?)

 TXG 31 May 2019
In reply to RR:

Hi. Quite a few shops seem to have new stocks of Pinks in now. If you're ordering, be aware the sizing seems to be different. I've had numerous pairs of 7.5 pinks since they came out in 2013. Ordered some from the new stock and can't get my feet in them. Have upsized to an 8 which is OK.

Also the rubber on the rand looks different to the previous model.

Worth trying on before you order.

Cheers

Tom

OP RR 01 Jun 2019
In reply to TXG:

Thank you! now i am emotional prepared I mail ordered old size Pinks (in Canada). The one’s I ordered at Banana-fingers me opted for two sizes to get the right size.

Also looking forward to the Tenaya mocc’s (Spain). I am very anxious how sticky the rubber is and how size wise they do.

Of the Unparallel I have to go down half a size. I received so far size UK 8,5 but need UK 8. Their up-lace is maybe a bit more narrow compared to the 5.10 pink.

Enfin, I am curious what others will experience with the various shoes.

 Jono.r23 02 Jun 2019
In reply to RR:

Seconded re Unparalell.

Got myself a pair ladt week from Outside. They’re basically the pinks but blue with a slightly less volumous heel (the pinks heel was always too baggy for me)

OP RR 03 Jun 2019
In reply to Paul Sagar & all:

The Unparallel Lace up’s (ordered at Darkventures). Size UK 8 is similar to the Anasazi Pinks UK 8.5. Unparallel rubber. 

The Tenaya Masai arrived also from Spain (fast). Size UK 8.5 is nearly similar to the Pinks UK 8.5/La Sportiva Muira VC UK 8.5. Vibram XS grip rubber. Very impressed, a very well finished shoe at first sight. 

Though they look different but fit and shape is nearly identical. Maybe the Unparallel is a bit more stiff and less sensitive then the Tenaya Masia which is form wise very close to the former Pink’s, hopefully better.  For both the heel is less steep. Toes are less pushed forward = less pain. 

About the 5.10 Anasazi’s later when received. 

Post edited at 21:27
 justdoit 03 Jun 2019
In reply to RR:

I managed to buy some size 8 in go outdoor last week. maybe try there, are they discontinuing them?

OP RR 05 Jun 2019
In reply to justdoit & all:

Received the Adidas (five ten) pink’s today from the UK.

They have changed sizing. Former UK 8.5 (pink) is now UK 9.5 (for me). I got ordered also the UK 9. It can be that I have become “a Petit Poucet” read: oversensitive something. Anyways the UK 9 didn’t fit/feel okay. So that’s a full size up! The new UK 9.5 is comfortable, more roomy then the old one's but the UK 9 was really tight.  

Tom (TXG) went up half a size. So take his advice try before you buy.

@ justdoit. Apparently Adidas has put them back on the shelfs. For how long and is the rubber as sticky as before? Time will tell. I don’t mind that much the price but the Tenaya Masia is very competitive and good available.

I tried yesterday both alternatives to the 5.10 the Unparallel Lace Up and the Tenaya Masia.

The Lace Up is a little less pointy then the Tenaya Masai, so less ideal for little limestone pockets. Both are “edging machines”. 

 asteclaru 05 Jun 2019
In reply to RR:

So is the consensus that the Masai are the same fit and sizing as the Anasazi Pink then?

I have some Pinks in 8.5 which I thought were a perfect fit when I bought them, but have since stretched a tad too much, so I think a size 8 would have been better.

I could buy another pair of Pinks, but to be honest I'm quite disappointed with the quality. I've only had them for about three months, climbing about three times a week in them, and the uppers already look tired and beaten up, the rand is starting to come unglued in a couple of places and the edge on the sole is already rounded, so edging is not as easy anymore.

My previous shoes, the Scarpa Techno X lasted about a year before looking as beaten up (but had to give up as they stretched to the point where they feel like slippers now).

The Masai are on sale in a couple of places so I'm tempted to get a pair for when my Pinks pack it in for good, but I can only find them in size 8, not 8.5.

Post edited at 16:31
 TXG 05 Jun 2019
In reply to RR:

> Tom (TXG) went up half a size. So take his advice try before you buy.

After wearing the shoes while sat on the sofa for 30 mins and looking at my mangled toes I took them back and upsized again. Full size up now.

From mine and RR's experience a full size up from the old pinks seems a good place to start if you're playing mail order tennis to get the right size. The shoes do seem narrower, so it's not exact.

Cheers

Tom

OP RR 05 Jun 2019
In reply to asteclaru:

May be Paul Sagar has an answer to your question. 

I had them on for just 2 hours and 10 seconds. So i can't say anything about it.

Oh my! Before the Pinks had hardly any stretch and now … I hope not … but if so then it is not a threat then I promise to change to Tenaya or the Lace Up.

OP RR 05 Jun 2019
In reply to TXG:

With a smile I feel less a lonely pansy by sizing up a full size. I have also the idea that they are narrower.

 Jono.r23 06 Jun 2019
In reply to RR:

That is actually my only beef with the UP-lace.. not quite pointy enough!

 yllo 06 Jun 2019
In reply to TXG: and RR

I had to go a full size up in the new pinks. Usually wear 8.5 and settled with 9.5. 

 yllo 06 Jun 2019
In reply to RR:

Full size up too! Settled with 9.5 (usually 8.5) They definitely feel narrower. 

OP RR 07 Jun 2019
In reply to Jono.r23:

Good climbing shoe design is complex. Both the Tenaya Masia and the Lace up are good designed. There is a lot of knowledge in it. It is not a vogue product. 

? Remember Mammut shoes? They decided wisely to stop their shoe making because they couldn’t make a good shoe. Btw ropes and the rest of Mammut is very ok.

I think Adidas is under estimating how critical the design process is as the rumour goes by changing the upper material and the composition of rubber. The design of climbing shoes is more complex then street sneakers (in my view of course). 

 asteclaru 07 Jun 2019
In reply to RR:

Has the design of the Pink changed recently?

I've seen some Pink at my local climbing wall's shop last night (and I recall them not having any when I enquired a few months ago, so they must be factory fresh) and the rand seems to go a bit higher up the shoe when compared to my ones. The logo on the sole was definitely different, but I don't know how the rubber actually compares.

They had the Tenaya Masai in there as well, and they seemed more pointy than the Pinks, which might be a problem for me as my big toe is shorter than the one next to it so pointy shoes don't really work for me (I didn't try them on because it was after my climb and I wanted to try them with fresh feet)

 Jono.r23 07 Jun 2019
In reply to RR:

Not sure if you intended to reply directly to my post, or what point you’re making. I have a pair of UP-lace & recommend them. ‘Vogue’ ? What? They’re certainly not fashionable but they edge and smear like beasts

OP RR 07 Jun 2019
In reply to Jono.r23:

Thank you, yes Fashion is the word! (Not a native speaker.) No critic.

What I want to say is that even subtle changes in the design or material can make big difference or can’t be done at a price. Adidas is changing things and I doubt if they realise how complex the design of a climbing shoe is. Unparallel seems to know what they are doing.

I agree with you the Up Lace is without doubt very well designed and even good-looking . As you say they perform extreme well on edges, the rubber is fantastic. I only climbed a few times with them and it is magic. 

 Timmd 10 Jun 2019
In reply to yllo:

> Good to hear.

> If they're as good as everyone says they are I'll have to buy another pair.

> I now need to start a thread titled 'I miss my Moccs' 

If they're the red slippers I have some hardly worn size UK 6.5, they were a present in 1997 and I've hardly worn them, too small for my size 9 feet and I couldn't return them due to circumstances. They're been worn circa 5 times IIRC.

Post edited at 00:41
 asteclaru 13 Jun 2019
In reply to RR:

Well, I've received the Unparallel Lace in UK8 and UK9 today. 

At first look, they look better quality than the Anasazi Pink (thicker uppers, nice thick laces, nicer lining).

Sadly though, the UK9 is just a bit too big, while the UK8 is a bit too small (my foot went to sleep after about 5 minutes in them). I reckon that UK8.5 would be spot on, but speaking to the shop I've bought them from, the importer apparently doesn't bring half sizes to the UK yet.

I would keep the size 8 and see how much they stretch (apparently not a lot, as they are synthetic, but, then again, people were saying the same about the Pinks), but £110 is quite a bit to spend on climbing shoes that may or may not ever fit you, so I'll be sending both pairs back and try some Masai instead next.

OP RR 13 Jun 2019
In reply to asteclaru:

I bought Lace Up 8.5 UK at darkventures.co.uk. I ordered three sizes to try. Did send the 8 and 9 retour. Unfortunately for you that they don't sell, I find them comfortable. Happy climbing.

 patsaunders 13 Jun 2019
In reply to asteclaru:

All sizes including half sizes will be in the U.K. next week 😁

 Simon Caldwell 14 Jun 2019
In reply to RR:

I'm still holding on to hope that they reintroduce the Anasazi Guide - by the time I found out they'd been dropped it was too late to stock up on spare pairs

OP RR 14 Jun 2019
In reply to Simon Caldwell:

To bad I have also given up on the Guide Tennies like many others. The originals were my favourite approach shoes then came the new *better-improved* version (by Adidas) those were to clunky for me. In searching I found the La Sportiva X3 and X4 as an alternative. Rubber not so good as the former 5.10 but the coin flipped to La Sportiva side for me. After several pairs still happy with them. But still miss … etc

Have a look at Tenaya’s approach shoes; I am going to give them a try next time. 

Maybe it is time for a new brand something like 5.15 or E 15 … 

 yllo 17 Jun 2019
In reply to Timmd:

Thanks for the offer, but that's a tad too small for my comfort tolerances!  


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