/ Indoor / outdoor bouldering shoes

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jfdm - on 27 Jul 2014
Hi everyone,

Been a long term follower of UKC and this is my first post.
I have almost worn out my Boostic's and want some advice as what kind of shoe to get next. I want a change from the Boostic's.

I climb at the Arch 2-3 times a week with occasional boulder trip outdoor. Am hoping at some point to join a climbing club in London and do some lead climbing.

Would ideally like something sensitive but with enough support when outside.
Is it better to have two shoes on the go? One for outside slabby climbs and one for indoor steeper climbs. Ideally would like one shoe to do everything.

On a side note I picked up a pair of Verdes, they were pretty cheap in a sale, but they feel pretty tight, will they give a bit? I was thinking these would be good for outdoor climbing.

Many thanks to those who reply.
Stevie989 - on 27 Jul 2014
In reply to jfdm:

Why do you want a change? that might help scope out your options.

What did you like/not like about the boostics?
jfdm - on 27 Jul 2014
In reply to Stevie989:

Hi Stevie, just thought I'd see what options were out there.
I liked them but thought that they weren't the most sensitive shoes, good for edging when new and now good for smearing. Had Boostic's since October and are now getting baggy.

Went outside bouldering this week on slabs and got to admit my calf muscles were killing.
Hence why I ask is it better to have an indoor and outdoor shoe.

Plus if the Verdes are any good and if the give a bit?
Stevie989 - on 27 Jul 2014
In reply to jfdm:

I've tired the boostics on and jammed my feet into a 6 (street 8) so far this was the only aggressive fit shoe that I have felt I had a secure heel (I have a pretty straight Achilles so aggressive shoes leave me with a baggy heel) but to tight to be of much use. A shoe like the boostic will be murder on slabs (for me at least!)

If you liked the fit and feel of the boostics I would maybe wait till the booster S is more readily available. A lower volume heel but still pretty technical.

Its a shoe I'm looking forward to trying. I currently use a nice cheap pair of 5.10 Rogue's. A fantastic shoe and I feel my climbing has improved far more than when I was wearing a more aggressive technical shoe but I am now starting to find its limitations. A good multi pitch shoe though.
jfdm - on 28 Jul 2014
In reply to jfdm:

Hi Stevie, thanks for your advice.

Something like choosing a different shoe should be simple but in the end becomes a mind field!

I have been using my Boostics 2-3 times a week since October.
I can't really remember how uncomfortable they were but remembered that I had to keep taking them on and off until they had broken in. I have had them for such a long time now!

It just surprised me what the difference was between the narrow toe box of the 5.10 compared to the Scarpa. The Verdes seem to be a good fit but hope that they stretch a bit width wise.

Many thanks for your help.


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