From the Edelrid video description:
"the worlds lightest Karbala at 19g!"
There's some interesting auto-correct going on there! From the word karabiner, to the name of an Iraqi city. And to get an A* in your RE GCSE, who can explain the importance of Karbala in Shia Muslim tradition?
Wait, did the guy from Black Diamond just say he doesn't want to call chalk a chemical, because it isn't a chemical!? The crap these guys will say to sell a product.
Upsalite does look rather promising though. I have been wondering why none of the big brands have thought about using it.
The Petzl rep saying 'problem eliminated' regarding the head wobble seems a bit of a spit in the face for all the people that supposedly 'abused' their axes in a not-for-purpose way. Still absolutely baffled as to why they didn't accept the fault, fix the issue and not alienate climbers. I wouldn't touch a Petzl tool with a barge pole after that.
> Upsalite does look rather promising though. I have been wondering why none of the big brands have thought about using it.
Probably because its expensive and not really necessary. I'm sure used properly this stuff will make your hands even drier, but normal chalk dries sweat off hands to cracking point as it is. A chalk bag full of saturated mesoporous chalk (as it will be after its been in your chalk bag for a week) isn't really going to make much difference in the real world use because you will have to open the bag immediately before use to prevent it absorbing moisture from the air.
At least there is more to this than the friction labs selling the same Hydromagnesite (chalk) as the next company but pretending to be scientists in order to market the emperors new clothes.
Looking forward to picking up the discarded condom bags that the black diamond stuff comes in at the bottom of my local crag soon....
Surrounded by mountains and alternately exposed to baking sun and torrential rain, the Innsbruck IFSC World Cup gathers climbers from all over the World in a week-long showcase of our sport. The week started with the European Speed Cup moved onto Paraclimbing...