UKC

La Sportiva Genius

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 jon 01 Mar 2021

Do they stretch??

Thanks

2
OP jon 01 Mar 2021
In reply to jon:

Has no-one had any experience with these? They're supposed to be largely leather uppers... but they're almost completely covered in rubber!

In reply to jon:

Sure you mean Scarpa and not La Sportiva?

OP jon 01 Mar 2021
In reply to Euan McKendrick:

Yes, you're absolutely right, thanks!!! I mean La Sportiva Genius. Do the stretch!?

In reply to jon:

From memory, no! I used to wear miura vs in a 42 and bought some genius in the same size thinking they'd stretch like Mirua and they didn't. Had to sell them on. 

1
In reply to jon:

Hi Jon,

Sorry, missed this earlier.

It was a fair few years ago that I reviewed them, but from what I recall they give a little, but not a lot. As such, best to buy them snug, because if they’re too tight they won’t stretch enough to ever make them comfortable.

Here’s a link to the review which, having now looked at it, I apparently wrote in 2015.

Six years ago...wow... 

 Anoetic 01 Mar 2021
In reply to jon:

Hi, very minimal stretch.  My street shoe is 43 and I wear 40.5 in the Genius...

OP jon 02 Mar 2021

Not looking good for Genius, then. Thanks for the replies.

 Anoetic 03 Mar 2021
In reply to jon:

Fwiw I wear then snug and they are great straight out the box..fantastic fit, I don’t need to do the laces up..

In reply to Anoetic:

I second that, the fit is amazing just wish I'd got them a half size bigger!

 dominic o 10 Mar 2021
In reply to jon:

I'd say they stretch a bit and then stabilise into a secure but comfy fit - I'd go tightish to start with. For reference here are a few size comparisons (because La Sportiva rock shoe sizes are a bit bonkers!) 

LS Genius 41.5

Scarpa Vapour V 42.5

LS TX2 Approach shoes 43

Typical Approach / Street shoe size 43.5

For what it's worth, I really rate them! 

OP jon 13 Mar 2021
In reply to dominic o:

Quite a bit of difference in those sizes! I’ve decided to give them a go. Having very different size feet - 40.5/42.5 - Normally I buy shoes that are comfy for my right foot and hope that the left shoe stretches enough to be bearable. I realise from the thread that Genius don’t stretch very much, but having worn them last night for an hour while watching the tv, I’m encouraged and hoping for the best! (I’d already bought them when I posted the thread three weeks ago and was wondering whether to take them back to the shop... but it’s probably too late now anyway).

 grectangle 13 Mar 2021
In reply to jon:

In a word, yes! I got some on eBay about a month ago, they had no signs of use, so pretty much brand new (£40!). 

First try, agony, especially on the toe knuckles. I thought they would be going back on to sell. But I persisted, wore them sitting around, even used socks to help with the stretch and reduce the pain. Took them out sport climbing and a bit of bouldering past couple of weeks. First day was a bit painful, but now they've found the shape of my foot, and I daresay they are comfy.

Performance wise, they are probably way above my skill level, like putting Mrs. Doyle in a Ferrari. But hey £40, new shoes.

For reference I'm a size 44 street shoe and they are 43s. LS sizing guide says you should downsize 2 euro sizes, but I can't see myself ever doing that.

 Anoetic 13 Mar 2021
In reply to grectangle: based on your sizing do you have wide feet?

 grectangle 13 Mar 2021
In reply to Anoetic:

Solidly in the wide-foot camp. Long 2nd toe and all the awkwardness. 

OP jon 17 Mar 2021
In reply to grectangle:

Having now used them for two days/seven routes, I agree that they do indeed stretch. Mine went from only just capable of getting them on (the left one, anyway) and lasting maybe 10 seconds before ripping them off, to slipping them on with ease and doing a 30m pitch in comfort. I like the feel of them - I’ve always enjoyed climbing in almost worn out shoes, and these give a similar feel. They do seem to be high volume - I have the widest feet of anyone I know and they are already comfy, so they are definitely not for narrow feet.

 grectangle 19 Mar 2021
In reply to jon:

Nice one!

Yeah, my experience exactly. Agony, no way in hell am I ever gonna wear these, to being actually comfortable. 

See how long they last now!


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