/ Сlimbing shoes tips

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Unindexed 30 Sep 2019

I have long narrow feet, medium-high arches, tapered toes (except my big toe and second toe are nearly the same length). I've been wearing Evolv Elektra velcro shoes for over a year, and am looking for a more aggressive pair for overhanging climbs and slab climbs with small holds (sport climbing). I've tried on several shoes and they all seem painful (hard to tell which will be best long term). Does anyone have similar feet to mine or know enough about climbing shoes to give me some good recommendations for my foot shape? Does anyone have experience with those models represented in reviews below?

Advice will be much appreciated. Thank you.

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AlanLittle 30 Sep 2019
In reply to Unindexed:

> I have long narrow feet

Katana Lace are wide, you can probably cross them off the list right away.

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gravy 30 Sep 2019
In reply to AlanLittle:

Tenya are quite good for narrow feet.

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In reply to Unindexed:

I have same problem, get on well with the Scarpa Maestro but recently got a pair of Tenaya Tarifa (went one UK size down) and they are working really nicely hard to find shops that stock them to try though.

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Andy Chubb 30 Sep 2019
In reply to Unindexed:

I have similar feet and find Scarpas work for me

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machine 08 Oct 2019
In reply to Unindexed:

5.10 pinks

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TheoKelvin 08 Oct 2019
In reply to Unindexed:

I might be a little late to the party but I have very similar feet and found the Butora Acros very good, they fit me absolutely perfectly, the only downside is nowhere really stocks them so you have to order online, but they fit street size perfectly.

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wbo2 09 Oct 2019
In reply to Theokelvin:buyers make the Black Diamond shoes I believe so maybe go there.

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kp1 09 Oct 2019
In reply to Unindexed:

I’ve narrow feet complete with heel spurs and getting any kind of footwear is a nightmare. Katana Laces have proved to be the best fit despite them being described as a wide fit. I take 43.5/44 for comfort in LS approach shoes and 41.5 in Katana’s. I used to wear Miura in 41 but the Katana’s are much more comfortable. 

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Mike Stretford 09 Oct 2019
In reply to Unindexed: I have similar feet to yours. They Mythos are a great shoe for intermediate climbing, but are now overpriced for what they are, and hard to get hold of.

I'd like to try the Masai, but I've never been to a shop that has my size, and have learnt from experience no to buy online, too much variation for a given size.

Basically, I realised that a curled toe 'box' type design would never work for me, so I go for shoes with a flat toe fit. I tend to end up with very snug beginner shoes, wear them in down the wall, then resole them in C4 stealth. But them I'm only looking to maintain were I am, and enjoy my climbing. At your age you are probably more ambitious. Good luck finding a performance shoe... but do remember, a badly fitting performance shoe is worse than a snug classic design.

Post edited at 14:09
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MGRT 09 Oct 2019
In reply to TheoKelvin:

> I might be a little late to the party but I have very similar feet and found the Butora Acros very good, they fit me absolutely perfectly, the only downside is nowhere really stocks them so you have to order online, but they fit street size perfectly.


Agree with all the above. The Woman' solution is a very similar fit to the blue Acro but quite a bit softer. The Butoras are very good quality.  

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misterb 09 Oct 2019
In reply to Unindexed:

Try the tenaya shoes they work well for the narrower foot

The answer is unfortunately you will have to buy shoes that feel a bit too small at first and let them stretch and break in, again tenaya seem to do this quite well as the uppers give a fair bit

I generally buy a half size down on what feels right in the shop and after 5-10 sessions they are about perfect, for performance climbing like sport or bouldering

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Bulls Crack 09 Oct 2019
In reply to Unindexed:

Sounds like we have very similar feet. I've always struggled to get narrow enough shoes and/or ones that aren't too baggy round the toes.

After hearing Ocun Pearls were low volume and good for narrow feet I tried them and they are indeed narrow. hey took some breaking in but a great fit with ample tightening leeway in the laces. 

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Robbie Blease 10 Oct 2019
In reply to Unindexed:

My feet sound pretty similar to yours, and I have found I fit pretty much all la sportiva either really well or at least reasonably well.

I wear sportiva TC pro for easier trad/cracks, katakis for harder trad and muiras (lace) for pretty much anything!

The other thing to think about is the heals though. As well as the front of the shoe, you need to make sure there's no excess room or bagginess around your heal. For example I fit 5 10 toes but the heal not at all, same with tenaya.

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Mike Stretford 10 Oct 2019
In reply to Bulls Crack:

> After hearing Ocun Pearls were low volume and good for narrow feet I tried them and they are indeed narrow. hey took some breaking in but a great fit with ample tightening leeway in the laces. 

Did you find a shop that stocked them or just order online?

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