UKC

Just after some collective opinions. I
recently moved so hope in fullness of time to be climbing more natural inland limestone (and sandstone maybe). Was thinking of extending nut selection might be useful- currently have 2 full sets ( 1-10) and micro walnuts.

looking there are many micros: peenuts, imps, hb brass offsets, half wallnuts or even large off sets. All slightly differently, rather than get all is there one set more useful than the rest. 
I can see several threads in past about this But seems DMM range in particular has changed since.

thanks in advance 

In reply to monkey man:

If you are using micro nuts in limestone or sandstone you are going to get into trouble as they will rip through softer rocks. The  micro walnuts have a bigger surface area so are better for this use, although their overall strength is weaker.

The brass ones all seem fairly similar - the IMPs probably the best of them. 

In reply to monkey man:

Back in the days when I used to do a lot of trad slab climbing I found that these things are so dependent on precise fit and contact surface area that it's good to have as many diverse shapes as possible.

Sadly my original 80s-90s collection of miscellaneous RP's, Faces Gems & HB Offsets got permanently loaned out years ago. Don't do so much of that kind of climbing these days but have still bought a few Imps & brass Offsets, which seem like the current ones to have. Also a couple of #3 Chouinard stoppers - similar to Peenuts - which are a bit weaker in terms of absolute breaking strain but often seem to sit really well.

In reply to monkey man:

I've got a full set of Imps and brass offsets. They weigh nothing and have got me out of trouble many times. They're squarer than small nuts, so sometimes sit better, and the cables take up less space, which also allows them to sit where regular nuts won't. Some places they're a waste of space on the harness, some places they're a godsend. Depends on what and where you climb. 

In reply to Dan Arkle:

good point, i hadn't really considered this - mainly as the sandstone was a bit of an afterthought I guess. Thanks!

In reply to monkey man:

thanks all, some good thoughts

In reply to Dan Arkle: hey Dan 😀 I’d say using micros on limestone is fairly essential. I mean obviously don’t make a habit of lobbing on them, but compact carb limestone is strong stuff, and some of the offset shapes in the larger sizes are infinitely more secure than straight taper nuts. I won’t leave the deck with out them as they are so light, it’s not worth leaving them. Especially some slab routes are fairy cave quarry and avon would be complete horror shows without them, and by placing them in clusters you really do give yourself a much better chance. 
 

Also worth considering are superlight rocks and metolius astronuts, the large set if you happen to be able to order some from the states...