I've seen few people on instagram praising those shoes for UK limestone, but from the description on the website they seem to soft for polished Peak footholds (unless that magic plastic insert in the toe box is a game changer). Anybody had tried them on?
Very downturned and soft, but plastic toe insert gives them some bite. Suitable for very overhanging limestone, but I would choose a good edging boot for stuff closer to vertical. Great on grit, the soft but precise combination feels a bit like I’m cheating.
Cheers! So not really Peak Limestone sport climbing shoes… might get them for grit though.
I like Magos on limestone. Should add my chimeras are the garish yellow things, but doubt there is much difference to the new iteration.
If your footwork is as clumsy as mine, you'll wear through the rubber very quickly on grit with them. I got them resoled with XS Edge but it's definitely not the same shoe now
If they are tweaked anything like the new Boostics have been then they will have changed significantly!!!
I believe Scarpa are bringing out a new Mego for 22, I hope and prey its just a colour change and they dont screw another perfectly good shoe!!!
I have been using TN Pro and Flagship this year. TN Pro where really stiff and good on peak limestone, so might stick with them for this. Flagships are really soft but lacking edging power, I got them quite tight and the upper front of the toebox gets over the toe box resulting in situation where it’s even harder to stand on small incut footholds. Never tried magos, but I guess they are like Testarossa’s?
> I hope and prey its just a colour change and they dont screw another perfectly good shoe!!!
Fool me once....
Fool me for the twelfth time etc.
I find the Boostics excellent for Peak lime. They are much stiffer than the Chimera but still sensitive. Mind you, I also use the Stix which is the finest shoe ever made IMHO.
I'll try the Boostics as Andy suggests at some point, but thinking of mountain trad rather than limestone.
I think there is a similarity with the Testarossas, though I've never used them. The Mago's tension and the toe insert leave my toe feeling 'springy' like the shoe is pushing back up when you bear down on little holds. Nice sensation , I like them. i'd try before you buy though, the last may not fit everyone.
I get om great with most scarpas, but was never a great fan of the styx. Long time back now, but I remember them being good for toe power, but any sniff of an inside edge, and the gap under my bent big toe always felt floppy and imprecise, and regularly rolled off.
I imagine the new boostics could be good on lime. Not so good for what the old ones were great for, but we don't need to go over that AGAIN.
I've got one pair of Stix box fresh and a pair just broken in. I just hope Scarpa bring out a V3. With a strap and better heel. That would then be the best shoe in the history of history.
Did a similar thing - bought two pairs for £35 years ago new. Finally coming to the end of life for the first pair, second pair just broken in.
Not a confident heel for bouldering though, and a bit stiff for grit / font where I prefer the chimeras.
That said they're built excellently and just won't die.
Aren't instinct SRs just the new Stix?
I think what I want is a Scarpa version of the miura vs.