UKC

New Scarpa Chimera - opinions

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Hello,

I've seen few people on instagram praising those shoes for UK limestone, but from the description on the website they seem to soft for polished Peak footholds (unless that magic plastic insert in the toe box is a game changer). Anybody had tried them on? 

Cheers!

 mrjonathanr 05 Oct 2021
In reply to AnnJ:

Very downturned and soft, but plastic toe insert gives them some bite. Suitable for very overhanging limestone, but I would choose a good edging boot for stuff closer to vertical.  Great on grit, the soft but precise combination feels a bit like I’m cheating.

In reply to mrjonathanr:

Cheers! So not really Peak Limestone sport climbing shoes… might get them for grit though.

 mrjonathanr 05 Oct 2021
In reply to AnnJ:

 I like Magos on limestone. Should add my chimeras are the garish yellow things, but doubt there is much difference to the new iteration.

Post edited at 20:56
In reply to AnnJ:

If your footwork is as clumsy as mine, you'll wear through the rubber very quickly on grit with them. I got them resoled with XS Edge but it's definitely not the same shoe now

 mike reed 06 Oct 2021
In reply to mrjonathanr:

If they are tweaked anything like the new Boostics have been then they will have changed significantly!!! 

I believe Scarpa are bringing out a new Mego for 22, I hope and prey its just a colour change and they dont screw another perfectly good shoe!!!

In reply to mrjonathanr:

I have been using TN Pro and Flagship this year. TN Pro where really stiff and good on peak limestone, so might stick with them for this. Flagships are really soft but lacking edging power, I got them quite tight and the upper front of the toebox gets over the toe box resulting in situation where it’s even harder to stand on small incut footholds. Never tried magos, but I guess they are like Testarossa’s?

 PaulJepson 06 Oct 2021
In reply to mike reed:

> I hope and prey its just a colour change and they dont screw another perfectly good shoe!!!

Fool me once....

Fool me for the twelfth time etc.

 wbo2 06 Oct 2021
In reply to AnnJ:  I don't think the Testarossa's have the plastic toe insert, and that I guess would be a big difference.  I have, and like , Mago's

 Andy Farnell 06 Oct 2021
In reply to AnnJ:

I find the Boostics excellent for Peak lime. They are much stiffer than the Chimera but still sensitive. Mind you, I also use the Stix which is the finest shoe ever made IMHO.

Andy F

 mrjonathanr 06 Oct 2021
In reply to AnnJ:

I'll try the Boostics as Andy suggests at some point, but thinking of mountain trad rather than limestone.

I think there is a similarity with the Testarossas, though I've never used them. The Mago's tension and the toe insert leave my toe feeling 'springy' like the shoe is pushing back up when you bear down on little holds. Nice sensation , I like them. i'd try before you buy though, the last may not fit everyone.

 IceBun 06 Oct 2021
In reply to Andy Farnell: so true, if only Scarpa would bring back the Stix. I don’t even need a colour change. On the upside I still have 2 unused pairs under lock and key😏

In reply to IceBun:

I get om great with most scarpas, but was never a great fan of the styx. Long time back now, but I remember them being good for toe power, but any sniff of an inside edge, and the gap under my bent big toe always felt floppy and imprecise, and regularly rolled off.

I imagine the new boostics could be good on lime. Not so good for what the old ones were great for, but we don't need to go over that AGAIN. 

 Andy Farnell 07 Oct 2021
In reply to IceBun:

I've got one pair of Stix box fresh and a pair just broken in. I just hope Scarpa bring out a V3. With a strap and better heel. That would then be the best shoe in the history of history.

Andy F

 neuromancer 08 Oct 2021
In reply to Andy Farnell:

Did a similar thing - bought two pairs for £35 years ago new. Finally coming to the end of life for the first pair, second pair just broken in.

Not a confident heel for bouldering though, and a bit stiff for grit / font where I prefer the chimeras.

That said they're built excellently and just won't die. 

Aren't instinct SRs just the new Stix?

I think what I want is a Scarpa version of the miura vs.

 Andy Farnell 08 Oct 2021
In reply to neuromancer:

The SR's and Stix are different lasts. The SR is the Instinct last and much more second toe focused, but the Stix is much more asymetric and big toe focused, as are the Boosters/Boostics.

Andy F


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