UKC

Thinking of getting one of these. Watching them in use on videos thru seem great on vertical or overhanging routes.

But they as effect on slabby routes? 

In reply to Chuckinpomgolia:

Hi, can’t help on slabs, but works at wall, stops my wife being pulled through the first runner

In reply to Chuckinpomgolia:

In my opinion I wouldn't call it an assisted braking device (maybe it's a bit anal) but it's more to help the reduce weight difference between the belayer and a climber. They work well apparently, although you have to be careful when pulling through the slack as it can cause the ohm to lock up when trying to clip.

If your weight difference is a serious issue go for it, I'd say past a 4-5 stone difference it can really help.

In reply to Chuckinpomgolia:

Yeh, it doesn't matter what type of route is it - the device adds friction to the rope. The only downside is it takes around a foot of rope to catch so your lighter belayer will still get pulled in bit.

In reply to Chuckinpomgolia:

I was belaying when my 4 stone heavier partner fell on a slab and the Ohm was great for stopping me getting pulled up. I was pulled forward a short way and he didn't fall too far below the bolt he had just clipped into.

We always use the Ohm when I'm belaying him. Its been great so far.

In reply to Chuckinpomgolia:

Bought one of these recently for use indoors - my 55kg partner certainly appreciates the assistance when 85kg me is falling off or even being lowered. Gives her a lot more confidence that she's not going to be fired into the wall and extruded through the first quickdraw and me a bit of a boost knowing that should i fall i'm not going to be meeting her half way down the wall.

Expensive bit of kit but, in my opinion, worth the investment if the weight difference between partners is that noticeably. 

In reply to Chuckinpomgolia:

I find the Ohm particularly useful on slabby routes  (or any route with a slabby start). I used to get pulled forward and out of balance, even when lowering, let alone catching a fall.  With the Ohm that forward pull is like it would be belaying a much lighter partner 

In reply to Chuckinpomgolia:

Ohm sweet ohm

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In reply to Chuckinpomgolia:

Thanks all for your comments. Based on this I think I should get one. If it saves just one unpleasant situation it will be worth it.

Cheers,

Chuck.

In reply to Chuckinpomgolia:

I've been belayed using one of these quite a bit.  Found it to be an impressively simple but effective device.  Never had any issues pulling up slack quickly for clipping, etc. - its presence indiscernible whilst climbing and worked fine on slabs too.  The only issue I found is that giving a softer catch looked to be very difficult/essentially impossible to control.  Most of the time not an issue but falls onto bolt 2/3/4 on a vert style climb for example will see you coming in hard.

In reply to Chuckinpomgolia:

Have used one for almost a year and very impressed, especially with the ease during lowering with a thinner rope. 

Two tips : always remove the Ohm on descent to make life easy for your partner if they are collecting quick draws as they climb as it is heavy to carry and fiddly to operate with one hand, remembering that the leader has prepared the Ohm before leaving the ground; clip in with a quick draw from the maillon to your harness as you do this as this can prevent 'assisted lowering' suddenly becoming 'full weight lowering' when the descending climber is relatively close to the floor.

In reply to Chuckinpomgolia:

Can these things be used on trad if your first bit of gear is able to take an upward load (e.g. a cam)?

In reply to SuperLee1985:

Mountain Project Forums : Risks of non-recommended usage of Ohm for gear routes