Really intrigued by the Beal Escaper. If it needs full release of any pressure before it starts releasing again I can really see this working. If just a small release of weight and then putting weight on it again will make it wiggle loose I can see this being very deadly.
In reply to UKC/UKH Gear: That Beal Escaper looks really interesting, maybe a bit more faff to set up but if it halfs the number of abs it's going to be loads faster. Still can't imagine the office was packed with volunteers for the first test though!
The scarpas looked good as well.
EDIT: That duffle bag is taking the piss. Arcteryx is just a fashion label.
I saw this being demo'd and I was much more reassured after the demo than when the principle had been described to me. In fact the main worry I had after the demo was that the bungy prusik system would prove too difficult to actually operate properly when pulling a stretchy 60m rope around a few bulges.
Having said that, the fact that the guy in the video ties a stopper knot shows that he didn't have complete confidence in the system.
> Agreed! Though as a bumbly Brit, I stick to my half ropes and full length abseils....
I guess the proof of the pudding will be in the eating. Although I think I would use it, would I actually I'm not sure, and would I be able to convince the people I climb with. I'd have to take them through the idea before I ever got near a crag, that's for sure. I am a fan of hugely extending gear so I can use a single rope for everything though, and this gadget feeds into that. I'm going to see how much they cost, if they're in the shops yet.
In reply to Greasy Prusiks: When friends first came out everyone was a bit wary of them - I mean how could they possibly work in flared cracks - until you'd had a fall on them, then they were trustworthy.
I suspect the Escaper will be a bit like that, scary until you've used it. There's bound to be an accident using them some time, but that may well be due to use outside its parameters rather than a product failure (friends don't always hold).
From the 10 we've been shown, it's the only truly innovative product rather than just a better version of...
> My main worry would be if you have to ascend the rope for some reason. I can't imagine prusiking on it would be a good idea.
Once the thing is in tension, the ab rope is totally secure, so prusiking up it shouldn't be any different from abseiling down it. My worry would be if you hit a ledge and relaxed the tension on the rope and then pulled the rope again as you continued the ab (or prusik), that might initiate a 'tug' through the lattice prusik. You have between 8 to 12 'tugs' to release the rope, so 8 to 12 ledges later ...... well I guess that is a lot of ledges.
> Did it look like it would cope with abseiling over ledges?
If the rope was going over an edge at the top then I think that might make initiating a tug difficult, in addition to what I suggested above with regard to bulges and having a full 60m of rope out also making the 'tug' process tricky.
The last person down would be the only one who needed to use the system at all. The video of the release mechanism reassured me more than the written description but I still wouldn't choose to subject the whole team to it on every abseil!
In reply to Luke90:
Yes, and maybe that is why Beal's video shows in two separate places a stopper knot being used; last person to ab would remove the knot? Would be surprised that they included the stopper twice in the video if that's not part of the instructions somehow but without seeing them though it's a guess.
I assume the stopper knot itself would prevent release?
That Arcteryx duffle is hilarious. What would be cool is if someone made a robust frame with wheels that you could clip your duffles/rucksacks to when travelling, or perhaps a dismantleable frame that slides into the bags base (portaledge style) that you could stuff into your bag once you reach the airport. I doubt it would be hard to make and for sure wouldn't cost several hundred pounds.
Arcteryx, just message me for details on where to send the cheque.
I was struck by the very different approaches shown by CT and BEAL in these product Videos.
CT have taken an excellent, idiot-proof design of something every climber needs (a belay device, in this case their Click-UP) and have added some new features that make it even more idiot-proof, so even the belay moron who does it all wrong probably won't kill their partner. They were at pains to point out that these improvements were to guard against bad/incompetent practice, but were there to mitigate risk for the climber.
BEAL, on the other hand, have identified a situation that I have never needed to address in over 30 years of very active Alpine/Trad/SPORT/Himalayan climbing, and have created a solution which looks fraught with potential for error - and lets face it, by their positioning its only supposed to be used every once in a while, so you're not going to get familiar with the operation of the 'Escaper' through frequent use, even if you remember to take it with you. Their video then positions it as an exciting mainstream bit of kit, and glosses over their own demonstrator using a stopper knot as backup.
It's only my opinion, but I feel pretty certain which of these developments is going to lead to "terminasion" - see videos for spelling reference, and I will vote with my wallet.
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