UKC

I currently have some Scarpa Mantas but i'm hoping to step up the grades this winter and so I'm looking for some stiffer boots to let me climb ice etc.

What does the combined mind of UKC recommend?

(I'm a size 10 (euro 45) and have quite wide feet; the Mantas fit me quite well but they are a bit heavy for my liking.)

In reply to aldo56: If Scarpa boots fit you well then stick with them. I was in the same boat a couple of seasons ago and needed a warmer boot than my Scarpa Charmoz. I took a chance and ordered Scarpa Phantom Guides online in exactly the same size as my Charmoz, they were a perfect fit at a great online discounted price. Never looked back since although I still use the Charmoz on lower grade stuff.

In reply to smuffy: That's along the lines I was thinking. I notice you can pick up a set of Phantom Ultras for £270 just now. Any other recommendations?

In reply to aldo56: The ones that fit........

In reply to aldo56:
Id say £270 is a bargain...

In reply to mh554: I'm facing the same question. Will be looking at Scarpa Mont Blanc GTX, Scarpa Jorasses Pro GTX and Sportiva Trango Extreme Evo GTX. All are B3 with the latter two impressively light.

Has anyone any thoughts on these three. I won't personally consider anything with a high gaiter as my ankles get too hot as it is!! The OP might be different of course.

In reply to BnB:

say goodbye to the piggy bank and go for rebel ultra gtx. you will not regret it.

In reply to Zillas:

They are amazingly light and fully featured but very high-gaitered (if such a term exists). For many this is a good thing, but for me unfortunately this is unhelpful.

In reply to aldo56:


What?! They were £400 when I got mine! Dammit

In reply to aldo56: as said go with what fits, I have aku sl pro gtx and have found them to be great ( review on rock and ice from last year) and managed to get mine for £199 instead of the usual £300 so there could still be bargains to be had!

In reply to Zillas: Have you tried the rebels? Do you think they're worth the £130 extra over the Phantoms?

The lightness is pretty impressive but I have completely unfounded reservations about the durability.

In reply to aldo56:

As above, whatever fits you best! That being said I personally find most scarpa boots fit me well, so if the Manta's fit you its quite likely the guides will aswell. I have SL's for walking and guides for winter. I love the guides for Scottish winter, they are really light and don't feel chunky on my feet. They are also really warm which I appreciate as I have bad circulation in my hands and feet, if you run hot you may find them quite sweaty. For B3 boots they are also surprisingly comfortable for long walk ins.

I'd keep the manta's for stuff like the alps as I found the guides were far to warm and hard to dry out properly.

In reply to Zillas:
I dont like the look of the Rebels.
But I am torn between the Ultras (£270), Jorrasses and Phantoms. I have the Mantas which are nice but would mind upgrading. I just dont want to cock up again...
Anybody know how to re proof some Mantas?

In reply to aldo56: Anybody looked at decathlons mountaineering boots lately? Nepals?

In reply to aldo56:
What about the Marmots with the integrated gaiter?

In reply to aldo56:

Recently bought the Scarpa Rebel Ultras. Incredible so far, best fit I've ever had in a boot and I tried on a lot recently. Only used on indoor ice and mixed so far but expectations are very high for the coming season.

They are very supportive and like you I was going from a fairly solid b2. The difference was night and day. They also feel warm enough to me, at least warmer than my b2s and they were fine for Scotland and the Alps.

The main reason to get them is probably the weight. They feel ridiculously light and low profile so they allow you to use your feet more like you would when rock climbing.

Tiso just got them in stock and you can get them for about £395 with their outdoor experience card discount. Not cheap but it seems that's what you pay these days and you definitely get what you pay for with these.

In reply to Brian Pollock: Cheers Brian, certainly some food for thought.

In reply to nufkin: Nufkin, how do you find your Ultras for the less glamorous side of Uk climbing? (Tramping around on warm wet days through bogs etc.)

In reply to BnB: Trango Extreme seem to be pretty poor build quality and can't take the beating they are designed for.

Nepal Evo are great if they fit and are similar to the Scarpa options you put forward. Try on all three and pick the best fitting one. Or hold out and try the LS Nepal Cube when it comes out, carbon fiber mid-sole which means they have better feel while climbing as the crampon is closer to the foot and gives more feel for the same warmth as a thicker soled boot.

In reply to aldo56:


Walk through bogs in £400 boots? You must be high.



To be honest I've gotten into the habit of wearing trainers for as much of the walk-ins as possible, but they've been pretty comfy for the pre/post climbing walking I have done in them. There was a bit of digging into the back of one of the heels last season, I seem to recall, but that could have just been poor lacing