UKC

I recently returned from Alicante where a European was working a rather desperate climb - she had a enlongated (about 12") stiff quickdraw to aid bolt clipping (she would then exchange this contraption for a standard draw when she'd made the move) - does anyone know where i can get one of these/what they're called?

I'm presuming they're a European thing - as i have never seen them in the UK.

In reply to stingray_tara:

I've not seen them for sale but I've seen a few homebrewed efforts, what about threading a skinny quickdraw tape through a bit of stiff plastic tube?

I think Grivel sell shorter stiffened quickdraws with a hand grip type design on the tape.

In reply to stingray_tara: There is a shop in Sisteron makes these up and sells them. I made my own with one of those krabs that locks open. I tried to insert the link to Needlesports but it doesn't look as though they sell them any more. I used rubber compound tape to fix a plastic tube to the krabs and then covered it with tubular tape. I can also attach this to a cheating stick that I made out of tent poles and thin wire that you pull to hold it rigid.

John

In reply to GridNorth: Should have added that I connected the krabs with a 30cm dyneema sling and put the plastic tubing around this. The tubular tape was cosmetic and to keep it contained.

In reply to stingray_tara:
Beal Panic Sling or Kong Frog?

In reply to stingray_tara:

I thought the standard way to aid up a sport climb when you're working it is with a stick clip. That way you can hang on one bolt, clip the next then work the moves on toprope. Does a 12" stiff quickdraw really give much of an advantage over a regular one?

In reply to Nick Russell: A couple of years ago I failed on a route at Portland. I had done it before but for the life of me I could not reach the lower offs. Someone loaned me a cheating stick and it saved me a lot of faf and I decided there and then that I would acquire one. Hauling a stick clip would have been a bit of a nuisance so it's handy for those situations rather than out and out redpointing.

In reply to stingray_tara:

In Germany they are called "Panik-Exe" (panic draw), and can be used to clip bolts from further below than when using a normal quickdraw. They also have a modified carabiner that holds the gate open until it snaps shit when the bolt hanger touches the inside of the carabiner.

I guess you can also use them for aiding, but I haven´t seen this done.

The one Beal makes is called "beal panic", e.g. seen here

http://www.bergfreunde.de/beal-panic-cliphilfe/

Grivel and Kong have similar sets.

CB

Thanks guys- its the beal panic sling that i was after - but good to know that others manufacture the same thing.

I guess there is debate whether it makes a huge difference!?! There was a route that was working in spain - where clipping the bolt put me in a position which was precarious and leaving a long run out - whereas if i had have had one of these i would have been able to make the clip before putting myself in a position which was tricky to reverse...

I did think about putting together a homebrew - but the lazy side of me is thinking that a internet purchase may just be simpler.

In reply to stingray_tara:

i read the thread title and wondered how you could redpoint an immunodeficiency syndrome.

In reply to stingray_tara:

My first thought was Why not thread the tape through a length of hosepipe. Reckon that would work?

In reply to cuppatea:

That still won´t give you the special carabiner that can be fixed in the open position but snaps shut once clipped into the bolt hanger.

CB

you need a stiffy

http://www.spadout.com/a/how-to-make-a-stiffie-in-a-jiffy/