What resin do people use for gluing holds back on?
I’m actually looking to repair a blown slot on a dry tooling route, so it’s a case of partially filling in a small crack rather than gluing a hold on but the same resin should do the job.
I was looking at Sikadur but there are a few different types.
Rawl r kem 2,its my go to for hold repair,cheap and doesnt leave a sticky residue.
If it’s just a small hook in thin crack you’re trying to recreate Misha, then I’d consider getting a small stick of plumbers epoxy putty and trying pack it out with that first. It’d probably need a little bit of a irregularity in the crack to get some mechanical keying effect to make it work (it’s not a strong adhesive, but sets hard). It’d be by far the cheapest way, and you could just keep the rest of the stick with your tooling kit...
Proper gunnable two part resins are much more expensive, and the wastage is huge if you stick a nozzle on a cartridge just to glue a small hold back on. That being said, if you’re after repairing a smooth dragged-out slot on a slate DT creation, then two part resins might be the only way.
Not sure where you're based but it may be worth getting in touch with any locals who do bolting work as they may have some tubes of glue that are out of date (and therefore not useful for bolting work) which can work for hold repair.
I'm very inexperienced at repairing holds, but for what it's worth I suspect it's gonna be tricky to do a good repair job on a dry tooling hold as the tools are gonna put loads of pressure on the repair.
Sikadur 31 (thats what it's called in the US anyway) works really well, and has decent texture once it's dry.
Does need painting afterwards since it drys to a greenish color. I use it all the time for new routes on Las Vegas limestone.
Edit: just saw the dry tooling bit. Sikadur is brittle, it won't work for that. Might as well just drill a suitable slot...it's not like dry-tooling doesn't end up butchering the rock anyway!
Thanks all. It did get repaired previously and lasted about a season so I was wondering if that could be done again. Drilling is the other option, the route is on drilled slots anyway.
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