/ Reverso 3 & 8.5mm ropes (autoblock slipping)

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martinph78 on 21 Aug 2013
I was using my Reverso 3 in autoblock mode with an 8.5mm rope yesterday (as for bringing up a second), and when weighted I found that the brake line was squeezed out of the v grooves by the weighted rope. This didn't happen with the 10mm rope.

Anyone else found this? Might be operator error, but I can't see how.

It meant that it didn't lock off, and would creep slowly through without ever locking up.

ElBarto - on 21 Aug 2013
In reply to Martin1978:
Can't say I've tried it with that diameter rope but I've had it working fine with a 9.1mm & 9.2mm rope.

I know that doesn't really help answer your question but I thought I'd point it out.
StuDoig - on 21 Aug 2013
In reply to Martin1978:
I'ved used it with 8.5mm 1/2 ropes regularly and never had any slippage.

I'd check for wear, and also think about the diameter of the carabiner being used to create the friction - could be it needs to be wider diameter, or a rounder shape rather than I/T bar type maybe.

Also make sure nothing could have been levering the device (ground, cliff face etc) and partially releasing the grip that way.

What kind of nick are the ropes in? If they're old and shiny, or new and slick that could be the problem as 8.5mm is right at the low end of the diameters the R3 is rated for.


NottsRich on 21 Aug 2013
In reply to Martin1978: I use a Reverso 3 with 8.5mm halves. Even when taking a second's fall on 1 rope (2 seconds, one on each rope) it still doesn't slip. That's with dry ropes. Not had that scenario on wet/icey ropes.

It does squeeze the brake rope out of the groove a bit, but not enough to stop it working.
martinph78 on 21 Aug 2013
In reply to Martin1978: Thanks all.

I was using a fat, round, zero-g hms (the largest carabiner I have) and the Reverso is new. Ropes are in good condition, they are a bit slick (dry treatment on them). It was hanging out in the open, from a large tree branch. I'm sure I was doing everything right in terms of set-up but will try it with a different carabiner.

For abseiling and belaying normally it works really well on the skinny ropes, and for ascending the rope it works well also. It was just this squeezing out of the v grooves in autoblocking mode that was concerning. Saying that, my second is kind of weighty ;P

Cheers all.

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