UKC

I use 5:10 pinks, but am doing more sports climbing and would like a shoe with a slightly pointier toe to go on the dimples on limestone, nothing to aggressive and maybe a Velcro.

i have broad feet. 

Any recommendations gratefully received 

In reply to J1234:

Sportiva Miura vs? Wider feet friendly apparently. Never tried them but mates swear by them. 

In reply to J1234:

Probably considered by some as past their best, but I love my La Sportiva Muira laces when on Limestone. Still made apparently, and fairly 'pointy' at the toe.

In reply to J1234:

Both the above suggestions are great ( I use the VS and my main climbing partner the lace) but they fit differently so if you do like them maybe see which fits you best. 

In reply to J1234:

Coulda bin me asking that Steve, a little while ago, and what do you know? I came to the same conclusion as your earlier advisers here and bought La Sportiva Miura velcro. Only yet worn 'em at a wall but off to test 'em ( and me!) on sunny sport departing Tuesday.

In reply to Martin Bennett:

Hi Martin, just got back from El Chorro and realised I need some sports specific shoes, and lose 4 kilo . 
Where did you buy yours, struggling to find somewhere local to go and try on and buy.

Have a good trip.

In reply to J1234:

More info. As 'Exile' says the Miura velcro and laces, despite their same name are quite different. The velco being more sharply 'turned down' at the toe.

Hope this helps.

In reply to brianjcooper:

Thanks Brian. Do you find they stretch. I buy 5ten at a size to fit, but I think some shoes stretch so would need to buy a tad tight. But I do not want uncomfortable shoes.

Hope that made sense.

In reply to J1234:

The Miura VS do stretch a bit, but not that much. I have a pair I use for indoor training which have been resoled 2 or 3 times over the last 3 or 4 years and they are a bit comfier from stretching but still good for performance. I still have to take them off after routes.

In reply to J1234:

The laces, being lined just a little bit, but nothing too extreme. Like comfortable firm slippers now.

Had a pair Velcros, that are not lined. Never stretched and stitching rubbed my toes.

In reply to brianjcooper:

Thanks Brian

In reply to Exile:

Yep, I've got wide feet, at least at the front, although I suspect my heels may be reasonably narrow. Anyway, I've got Miura Laces and although I bought them perhaps .5 a size to small, they are now pretty comfy and great on limestone - at my very moderate level! When I got them, I tried on the Miura VSs but they were awful for me - seemed far too narrow, laces were much better. 

SteveX - I have a feeling your idea of moderate might be a lot less moderate than mine! I don't think I've ever found the toe of my shoes not pointy enough to get in a dimple I could actually use as hold!  

In reply to J1234:

Both my main climbing partner and I take 41.5 / 42 street size and fit Velcro and Lace in a 40. This is comfortable enough for a few pitches if it's not too hot (Lakes trad) but also to sports climb in (which for us is up to 7b, but it's not the shoes holding us back!) 

In reply to TobyA:

LOL, I am a very moderate climber, maybe I am blaming my shoes for my moderateness.

In reply to TobyA:

Next time sample some of that Frankenjura limestone... pointy shoes are a must as it's pretty much all pockets at all grades. 
https://www.instagram.com/p/Bk4bJqjjbuIoExEaqczMWfGf6P-_-x686gWTHI0/

As for the OP, Sportiva Solution is top contender for limestone sport, and when sized correctly, very moderate (as in not painful at all).

In reply to J1234:

I can't blame my bunion on my climbing ability.  Finally wearing shoes that fit properly, even in the height of Summer.  40 Years too late though.

In reply to J1234:

Just a quick mention, Miura VS are great but you may find Scarpa Instinct or Instinct Lace a little more comfy.

I use Scarpa Boostics now and they fit like a glove 1 1/2 EU sizes down from street shoe.

Sportiva Katana lace or Kataki lace might also be worth a look, both stiff shoes and great all rounders.

In reply to andyman666999:

Anyone please tell me why I got a dislike for that ?? 

In reply to J1234:

ones that fit your feet, no point having a pointy toe if your foot doesn't actually fill that part of the shoe.

The best fitting shoes I have are Ocun Ozone plus, but I find that even these are too pointy for my wide and square feet, the fit around my big toe is too baggy to stand on the smallest edges.  

In reply to andyman666999:

Only one! You're not trying hard enough. I've 33 and increasing for a recent post.

In reply to andyman666999:

Probably a fat finger. Turn them off if they bother you.

I have bought simond advanced from decathlon. £55 do for the wall if no good , but so far so good at the boulder wall, see how they do on rock tomorrow.

In reply to J1234:

I have wide feet and Scarpa Vapour V's are a really good mix of mild aggression without crushing your feet. Not super pointy, but pointy and wide don't really mix unless you have Egyptian toe.

In reply to J1234:

Yeh I thought so - didn’t know you could turn them off ! Doesn’t bother me - but sometimes am just curious. I’ve ticked dislike by mistake before - shame you can’t undislike something. 

In reply to J1234:

I have a few pair of nearly new rock shoes I take a street 7/71/2

keith s

In reply to J1234:

Tenaya Iati, similar to pinks in terms of volume, narrow forefoot.

In reply to J1234:

The best shoe in the world for climbing sport if you have broad feet is the Scarpa Instinct Lace. 

this is an objective fact written into the fabric of the universe and if you disagree, you’re wrong. 

trust me, I’m a doctor (of philosophy). 

In reply to J1234:

either the la sportiva skwamas or evolv shakras.

both suit my wide feet and for me have a perfect balance of aggressiveness/comfort.

In reply to J1234:

Where your foot is broad is an important thing to consider also. 

My feet are quite wide (due in part to a lot of long-distance hiking) but not just in the toe-box. 

I find that with Sportivas (even those supposed to be for broader feet), I get an unpleasant ache level with the arch of my foot after about 30 mins of wearing them. The only pair I've found that I can wear for longer periods of time are Solutions. 

5:10s and Tenayas are way too narrow for me.

Scarpas are generally comfortable. 

The classic advice is to try them on in a shop but I'd go one further and say to look out for boot demos at your local indoor walls (if you live in a city?). You can only tell so much about the fit of a shoe when it's brand-new and you get to pop it on for 5 mins and stand on an artificial pile of rocks in a store. Have a go of all available pairs of already worn-in shoes and get to try them out on an actual climbing wall over a session. That's how I found out that 90% of sportivas are not for me.