UKC

Have been scrabbling recently to find rock shoes with any positive qualities. Have tried various makes, now sitting on about four or five pairs. None of them shape up. They are universally badly designed, poorly constructed, ludicrously enhanced with pointless and apparently fashionable features. They roll on the feet, will not stick on small Lakes holds, simply don't do the job required.

The days when a new pair of shoes allowed a half or full grade uptick are over. At the moment what is on offer is total rubbish. Some of the more sensible designs like Sportiva Cliff have been discontinued.

This is a hopeless situation, manufacturers and designers should take note.

In reply to Dave Cumberland: You need to try a pair of EBs

In reply to Dave Cumberland:


Of what? You haven't said what was so good about the boots you have liked in the past or what's so bad about the current crop of boots.

In reply to Dave Cumberland:
how about the scarpa thunder?

In reply to CurlyStevo: What ever happened to the rock shoes with soft padded heels, thought they were great, but do not appear to be any on the market at the moment

In reply to galpinos: Fires and other Boreal (like Ballet) were stiff, no rounded heel, great on tiny holds, good rubber, slimline close-fitted shape.

Curent offerings have weird shapes, asymmetric, rounded heels (which are useless), breathing holes that mean you just get wet feet on ledges, fabrics are too stretchy, they fall apart quickly, uncomfortable - badly made, badly designed.

There is an opening for the return of common sense.

In reply to Dave Cumberland:
http://www.joe-brown.com/outdoor-equipment/boreal_ballet_gold

There you go.

In reply to Dave Cumberland:

Since I too thought Ballets were the bees knees and was p'd off when mine finally fell apart after 2 resolings, only for me to find I didn't like the latest version (this was about 10 years ago, or more) you might like the shoes I've got on best with since.

FiveTen Spire - have rounded heel I'm afraid but apart from that fit your criteria well I think. CragX have 'em in all sizes and CHEAP.

FiveTen Newton - now discontinued but Rock n Run have them in sizes up to 10 - or did when I went for yet another pair last week whilst I could still get 'em.

In reply to Dave Cumberland:

I wonder if in 20 years time there will be crusty old boulderere and sport climbers complaining that they can't get downturned, banana shaped torture devices on forums?

For what it's worth you could look at 5.10 coyotes.

Second the Five Ten Newtons, tick all the boxes and can be had for £50 at the moment, bloody bargain that is!

In reply to Adam W.: Did get two pairs from JB, thought about a third pair but decided to wait, may have to call them again and get the Ballets too, desperate measures.