UKC

Hello I'm thinking about selling my pride and much joy, my wren industries silent partner I've only just seen they aren't made anymore. I've climbed el cap with mine only ever taken one 5 meter fall while aid climbing on el cap Yosemite

A soft fall and reinforced my confidence in the device so much so I used it later in the UK to climb new routes and loose rock routes too. With my set up including bungy cord to hold the weight of the rope and back up knots etc, I found apart from the fact solo climbing is not safe in terms of rescue etc, this system works better than some climbing partners if experienced 

Just interested is there a silent partner fan club who else loves their mechanical device and would you part with yours 

I recently acquired one and am looking forward to getting to grips with it on some of the multi-pitch stuff here in Japan this spring. It sounds like you've covered a hell of a lot of ground with yours, Luke... Do you have any useful tips you've picked up through practice? I'd be very interested to see a photo of this bungy cord set-up you mentioned, if you have one...

Thanks for posting, this must be an original subject I'd have thought.

Yes, am very fond of mine also and not ready to part with it. I also had Yosemite ambitions but alas, I wasn't up to it. Highlights of ownership so far, are successful ascent of Kilnsey Main Overhang and being caught by it on Many Happy Returns, Anglezarke after the nut I was clean aiding on, parted company from the loose block it was placed adjacent to. That's the one that's no longer there, caused by an unrelated event, although gravity had been tugging on it for years.

Hey bud - just a heads up if you do sell it don't let it go cheap - they're going on ebay for £300+ from what I've seen. 

I'd be fast too, get it sold before the revo comes on the market and makes it obsolete. 

Just sold mine. 

For aid I found a grigri smaller and easier to manage. For free climbing I found in the UK the faff of setting up suitable anchors etc etc for relatively short routes not worth the effort and I usually go with a partner

I was thinking that this was just a fairly transparent attempt to advertise it for sale without buying a premier post but there does seem to be an appetite for the discussion.

Hi Tony ok no pictures I'm afraid but it's simple 

As you start climbing up with the rope from the bottom belay  upto your sp on your body with  the slack still on the ground as you gain height the rope wants to slip back down to the ground and isn't tight on your runners this means a lot of slack rope adding to your fall length. So every so often you prussick a loop of bungy cord to your rope and hang on the runner to keep the weight of the rope held up , if you fall off this bungy moves with the rope and allows the rope to do it's job unhindered 

The flaff is worth it when climbing loose rock for me safer for my second not to be underneath however yes mainly aid climbing is worth the set up time. The bulk never bothered me i guess in the end if you use a system enough it becomes part of you the thing I like about sp is I trust it with my life 

I must admit flying through the air half way up Yosemite I did wonder if my so would call me a rescue helicopter if I got injured but never doubt the ability of the device the Revo sounds exciting I'd still use my sp over it however I like nexus phones and can't use iPhones so guess I'm an old fashioned 

Is that a cut off Grigri adapted for rope solo ? 

I've heard of that but not sure about it 

Have you tried rope solo it's amazing what you can achieve but its interesting to hear the talk like owning a classic car 

Wow I've never heard anyone's case of a real fall it's unremarkable after but the excitement is real at the time 

That's the thing with the sp you can fall off an overhang head first and the sp will still work unlike some other device 

The world of aid climbing is a strange one I never used pegs just clean up to c4

Never bothered with the modification, but did used back up knots, as also recommended by SP

Must admit most of the time I didn't use back up knots not good I know however I did on Yosemite always but that was aid not free free climbing I used a rope bag and a  big stopper knot