I tried on the new Boostics yesterday. Despite hearing that you need to go down half a size compared to the old version I'm not sure if that's possible given how tight they felt in my normal size. Has anyone used them on anything like Slate slabs yet, if so how do they stack up against the old version?
I must admit I miss the old parrot colours and built like tank feel, even if my feet did spend 99% of their time looking like I'd been swimming in M&M's. The new colour Boostics (and Chimeras for that matter) look like they're taking themselves a little too seriously.
Edit: These are my favourite shoes, so I'm kind dreading Scarpa have gone soft on me!
Funnily enough I've just written up my half of the review here, with Alan (James) writing his half sometime over the next few days. We had slightly different experiences, but here's things from my side:
> I tried on the new Boostics yesterday. Despite hearing that you need to go down half a size compared to the old version I'm not sure if that's possible given how tight they felt in my normal size. Has anyone used them on anything like Slate slabs yet, if so how do they stack up against the old version?
When it comes to sizing, opinions definitely differ. Nathan Hoette from Scarpa suggests a half size down, but much like you I found this totally and utterly unrealistic, because it wasn't a case of whether or not I could wear it in terms of comfort levels - I simply couldn't fit it on my foot. I went half a size up and Alan went a whole size up, which - depending on the level of precision you're after - feels about right. Having spoken to various individuals + shop staff these thoughts seem to stand, with no one other than Nathan suggesting half a size down (which I still find hard to believe).
Whilst I haven't used them on Slate, I still think that the old Boostic out perform the new Boostic on small edges. Granted, the new ones wear in faster, are light years ahead in terms of construction, and are much more sensitive, but when it comes to support on small edges they are, at least in my eyes, a move in the wrong direction. It feels like they've gone too far in this direction, making what was fundamentally a supportive shoe for edging into a softer and more sensitive shoe that's far more suitable for bouldering (and let's face it, there's no shortage of bouldering shoes on the market these days).
> Edit: These are my favourite shoes, so I'm kind dreading Scarpa have gone soft on me!
Tbh, this is exactly how I felt whilst reviewing them, and sadly the conclusion I reached was that yes - they had gone soft on us (in spite of what they said...). To me the Boostic was one of a very few genuinely stiff and supportive shoes on the market. Whilst it's great that the new version is more sensitive, the fact that this has come at the cost of what made it good just makes me think that they've missed the mark.
Alan has got on better with his, but that's my side.
Sorry to be the bearer of bad news!
I am of a slightly different opinion to Rob as he suggests, and I must have given him wrong information since I didn't go a whole size up, I actually pitched for the same size expecting it to fit like a glove (since I have previously found Scarpa fairly consistent in sizing).
In the end, the same size did fit but that was not before an uncomfortable two or three sessions where I was really struggling. I can't make any sense of the suggestion that you would go half a size down and wouldn't recommend that at all. I tend to agree with Rob though in that they did bed in more quickly than the originals.
Now that they are bedded in I am very happy with them. Slightly softer than the previous model for sure but I am not noticing the significant drop in edging performance that Rob has. This could be because I persevered with the same size which was painful to start with, or it could be that Rob is climbing harder routes than me and tests his shoes more to the limit. Either way, I have put them to some reasonably good testing over the last week or so on edgy sport routes and not found them wanting yet.
For me, they still hold good edge credentials however when all other shoes seem to be 'going soft' as you say, it could be that they are just the last of the edging Mohicans.
I hope to go into more detail in the review later this week.
Thanks for the info guys, I still have 3 pairs in various states of repair and resole, so my feet will be looking like rainbows for a while yet. I may see if Scarpa will do whole sole resoles on them to keep them going a long as possible (unlike Miura VS, they usually seem to lose a lot or stiffness after a resole).
I look foreward to the review!
I didn't own the previous Boostics, but the current pair are now my favourite stiff shoe since the much missed Spectro's. They aren't as stiff as expected but are much, much more sensitive. Put it this way, it wasn't them holding me back at the Tor on Sunday.
I've gone 0.5 Euro up from my usual Scarpa size and they feel like the perfect fit. Tight but comfy, they took 2-3 sessions to bed in. I couldn't have gone for my usual size as they would have been excessively painful.
The main point I took away from listening to Rob talk to the shoe designer man was that some people resole them 4 or 5 times because they’re so well constructed. I’ve never been that keen on resoling but I’ve reconsidered my position on that. I’m thinking the maestros might be the next pair of new scarpas for me.
Just to add my tuppence worth to this....
In general Scarpa are up there as one of THE best made shoes on the market, eclipsing Sportiva (IMO as a resoler-Butara seem also very good).
I have 3 pairs of old Boostic, in various different rubber grades, having resoled them all several times, and I’ve found for me that XS Grip works really well as the shoe is stiff enough to support a softer stickier rubber.
Having said that, I don’t use them so much these days, preferring the Instinct Lace and Mago combination. My Instincts are also resoled in XS Grip and are brilliant, much better than Edge and far stickier, at the expense of some longevity of course, but they are so well made that 5 or 6 resoles is well within range if the upper is looked after and you don’t drag or ruin the toes. My old original vapours have sole 7 on right now, and 1 re-rand.
It’s a shame to see Scarpa changing the new Boostic and going soft, although lighter climbers may not notice too much difference. I do wonder why they repeatedly change a winning formula. They did it with the Dominator in the 90’s. Weird. You don’t see the Muira VS being changed, or the 5.10 pinks and blanco’s altered significantly, because people love them and continually buy them! I do think at times they change for changes sake, and I also feel their line up is a little too big now, especially on the soft end of the range.
They ruined the Vapour Vs to make another indoor bouldering shoe clone. Apparently using the same last yet they're significantly less comfortable. I guess there is probably at least 10x as many miles getting done on plastic than rock but with the amount of models Scarpa have they could have at least left us with one or two rock shoes.
Didn't Nathan also hint at some other new stiff shoes coming down the pipeline in your interview as well? I've seen pictures of the Quantic, wondered if there are any more coming.
Totally agree with you on the old v new Vapours.
My Vapour V 2’s are dead already, 1 resole and now DWS shoes only. Just a much poorer shoe IMO.
The third generation Vapours I’m simply not interested in, even though they’re blue!! Not even sure of the target audience for them either anymore, the range is just SO big, but horses for courses I guess. Scarpa have lost me on Vapours I’m afraid.
I've never tried the first generation of vapours but the second (the lime/grey model) I have 3 pairs of on rotation/resoling. I really rate them. Tried a pair of the new blue/yellow ones and they're comparatively horrible. Are you saying the original vapours are even better?!
> I've never tried the first generation of vapours but the second (the lime/grey model) I have 3 pairs of on rotation/resoling. I really rate them. Tried a pair of the new blue/yellow ones and they're comparatively horrible. Are you saying the original vapours are even better?!
I think if you asked fans of the original they'd say that each generation has got progressively worse, at least as far as support is concerned. I really didn't know what to make of the latest generation, as they just seemed like an odd mismatch of two opposing halves.
Link here for those who are interested: https://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/footwear/rock_shoes/scarpa_vapour_v-11807
> In reply to Rob/Alan -- maybe get Nathan to clarify what he meant? Did he mean half a size from street shoe? (I need to rewatch the video)
I am 99% sure that it was in reference to the sizing of the previous version.
Interesting. I always thought the original orange/tan vapour looked a bit sloppy but I love the pairs of the second generation I have. Will have to see if I can track down a pair of original 43.5s!
The Boostics feel like the shoe the new Booster should have been. Edging power but sensitive at the same time. Just like the original, much missed Boosters.
Then that's insane. I've gone same size and they feel tight! Comfy, but definitely tight.
> Tbh, this is exactly how I felt whilst reviewing them, and sadly the conclusion I reached was that yes - they had gone soft on us (in spite of what they said...). To me the Boostic was one of a very few genuinely stiff and supportive shoes on the market. Whilst it's great that the new version is more sensitive, the fact that this has come at the cost of what made it good just makes me think that they've missed the mark.
> Sorry to be the bearer of bad news!
off topic but this makes me dread the day that Sportiva discontinue the Miura VS! Another one of the increasingly limited supply of proper edging shoes.
Scarpa do do a complete resole not a half sole, I had some original instinct slippers done a while ago and they came back absolutely perfect in every way!!!
Half a size up for me too, I could get my normal size on but they were brutal across the top of my toes which I assume is partly to do with the lower volume toe box , but they also feel a tiny bit shorter to me
I wouldn't contemplate trad in them they just aren't mega comfy , the instinct shape is better for that imo
> The Boostics feel like the shoe the new Booster should have been. Edging power but sensitive at the same time. Just like the original, much missed Boosters.
Is that what you were wearing Andy when we met last year at Nettle - the new Boosters?
Having only tried the new Boosters on in a shop I don't understand why they were made tbh. They don't seem to fill on particular gaps in the Scarpa line-up, and their line-up is already confusing as it is!
The Reflex and Velocity seem very similar and what's the point of the Furia air as well as the Furia S? The Vapour V's are no longer anything special and the Drago, Mago and Chimer all seem to lack distinction.
The Maestro stands out but sadly softens up to much to be of use to me.
The quality of Scarpa is good and they're comfortable but they seem to be erring away for making anything too specialist for fear it won't sell.
I’d say the Furia S and Furia Air are very much specialised shoes.
I’ve just worn my 3rd pair through and have been looking at what else is on the market - and there seems to be nothing. The Solution Comp is close but still not as soft. I’ll probably end up with another pair of Furia S.
The Furia Air seems even more specialist to me. It’s too flimsy for me but seems perfect for lighter climbers (that want a super soft, super sensitive, super lightweight shoe).
Solution is nothing like the Furia. Theory is the direct competitor. Stacks of rubber. Soft as hell. A few other clever highlights. Specifically designed for the job
> Is that what you were wearing Andy when we met last year at Nettle - the new Boosters?
Yeah. I haven't worn them much since then either 🤣