UKC

I may have found out what they are good for….

Scarpa are marketing these the wrong way. 
They are SO not ‘edging machines’ any more, nowhere near as supportive or good on edges as the old version. 

However, they are a superb all-rounder, especially so on limestone. 

I tried selling mine as initially they were such a huge disappointment, but, as nobody bought them, I decided just to start using them and they have really grown on me as a comfortable, sensitive accurate all round shoe. 

If Scarpa had marketed them along those lines they may have been onto something. 

NB - Bought mine as per the old version, size 41, my street shoe size. 

In reply to mike reed:

Listed to a podcast with Josh Wharton the other day who said pretty much the same as you. He did also say that Scarpa were working on something more similar to the old version (ie stiff).

In reply to mike reed:

This is pretty much the same conclusion I reached too. They're a lovely shoe, but not what they've been marketed as being - or a worthy successor to the original; however, they're still a nice shoe...

In reply to Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing:

To be honest, they sound like a brilliant all round trad shoe. I’ll be getting a pair. For tiny limestone edges I like my Magos, but for mountain trad the Boostics sound spot on.

In reply to mike reed:

Have you (or anyone reading) found a shoe that is really good for edging, ideally like a plank. I’ve had success with Muira VS and 5:10 Blancos before but now need something even more supportive

In reply to mike reed:

They are indeed a great limestone shoe. I find them more than stiff enough, but surprisingly sensitive.

I never wore the old one and don't often get on with stiff shoes, but the new Boostics rock.

Andy F

In reply to mike reed:

What your describing are what I use my Chimeras for (old colours, received as a present), mainly bouldering, sport and grit. They edge well and I wouldn't consider buying the new Boostics as well these tbh. I've still got 3 pairs of old boostics in various stages of wear/resole that I save for slate and hard trad (well hard for me). I'm intrigued by these new rumoured stiff shoes though.

In reply to Tyler:

The Maestro is pretty stiff. Some reviews say it gets soft but that's not what i have found

In reply to mike reed:

Scarpa shoes in street?

Do you wear them with down hut slippers inside?

In reply to Tyler:

I've just broken in a pair of Katana Lace, and I'm really impressed with their edging ability and support. Can stand on some teeny tiny things, even with my knackered old arthritic toes. 

In reply to midgen:

I've just got a pair as well and whilst they are stiff, I don't think they're as stiff as Miura VS or Old style Boostics. They do make for brilliant all-rounder though, I'm tempted to try a pair 1/2 size smaller for more technical routes, the tighter fit might also stiffen them up a little.

It sounds like they might live in the same space as the orange instinct VS for that middle ground of a bouldering style shoe with enough support for routes. Care to comment on how they compare?

In reply to jamie_bkc:

The Boostics and Instincts are a different last, the Boostics more asymetric, the Instinct much less so. Also the Boostics are a full length sole, the Instinct is a half length sole.

Andy F

In reply to Tyler:

Have you tried original Miuras? My pair is a decade old and hasn't been used much in recent years, I should probably send them off for re-soleing as when I first used them I must have been panicking and dragged my toes about and they are worn there. But in my "sport climbing renaissance" of 20 and 21 (ok so it was hanging around in wobbly quarries around Stoney, getting back to the grades I was doing ok 15 years ago when not really focused on sport!) I dug out the Miuras and tried them a few times and was really impressed. Perhaps even better for that rigid front pointing feel are the tight Scarpa Techno X I bought a few years back on sale, but that I got half a size to small for a comfy but convincing all day mountain rock shoe. But instead I found that they're perfect for standing on matchstick polished edges on quarried limestone. But I'm not recommending them because Scarpa unhelpfully stopped making them!

In reply to PaulW: I found the Maestros softened up but still maintained a lack of sensitivity. 

If you really want stiff TC Pros? Instinct lace ups are enough for me

In reply to mike reed:

I think I have identified the problem…

you read some marketing material, and trusted it

gear (like shoes), that are more closest tied to personal preference (soft, narrow, yellow, with unicorns)… well the general marketing BS might be spot on, or even the other end of the spectrum.

so in this case of shoes, go to a local shop and see What feels good for your taste. Or make an educated guess and order online, but be prepared to sometimes get misses. 

In reply to PaulW:

Yeah my maestro's are still decent post resole, cant say the same about the new vapour lace, perhaps a trend in Scarpa's updated shoes?

In reply to TobyA:

I find that lace-up Miuras soften up a lot - they start as edging machines but after a few months of continual use are floppy clown shoes.  The VSs maintain their stiffness far better, even after resoles - as they use the P3 platform.   For recent limestone edging I've used the Katakis - stiff and good for edging, to me they seem a bit less downturned and asymmetric than Miura VSs (although I think the official designation is that those aspects are the same).