/ Scarpa Instinct Lace vs Vapour Lace
Anybody tried the two aforementioned shoes? I've got a pair of the Vapour Lace (new yellow versions) but after a year I believe the midsole has let go, no support whatsoever (they have seen a lot of use). So thinking about changing to the Instinct Lace as it has the more supportive rand to hopefully keep its stiffness. Interested to see how the two compare.
How are they edging and support wise? Based in the Lakes so its all edging, not bothered about smearing for grit!
The instincts definfitly feel softer, maybe the 3/4 sole since they have the same rubber and thickness. I’ve been using my instincts for steeper limestone trad and sport, plenty stiff enough for standing around fiddling wires, but I wouldn’t want them as an all day shoe.
Thanks, I currently use the vapours for everything bar hard bouldering (got some Booster S's) I'm considering getting some Maestro Mid's for long multipitch stuff in the UK/alps (10+ pitches) and then Instinct Laces for cragging, harder multipitch routes (<5 pitches) and easier bouldering. Originally thought Miura VS but as I'm a stickler for matching brands I thought the Instinct Lace would be a good comparison!
I found I could comfortably wear a half size down in the instinct - I think it's because the toebox feels wider. Neither are super downturned or asymmetric compared to other brands, but I suspect your feeling of support comes from larger than usual sizing? You'll need more foot compression to gain the same support in them I suppose.
Miura VS are more comfortable and similar if a little less downturn to Instinct, but slightly narrower tobox. Heel is tighter also. More comfortable as no toe rubber so the footbox has more room to go to on top and less pressure on knuckles.
I've had both but didn't have the vapours for long as didn't like the fit (almost there but I'm fussy). I personally get on with the instinct last better. I think the instinct climb like a soft shoe but offer more than enough support for the edging I do, the instinct VS actually feel stiffer than them. Laces are handy to adjust the stiffness but you know this from the vapours. Magos are meant to be edging machines so maybe worth a look, though again I don't get on with the fit of those.
Hmm didn't consider the Mago's, does anybody have any experience with them compared to the vapours/Miura VSs?
Are you downsizing? Vapours stretch a fair bit so need a good 0.5 to 1 size down to give a good long term fit.
I'm size 42.5 shoe size size 41 rock shoe size, my old bouldering shoes used to be 39! Now I've sized up for comfort as I now like long multi rather than small pebbles.
I think the magos are brilliant. I prefer the XS grip to the edge. The magos are a good balance between a powerful but soft rubber shoe. Great at edging and UK lime. Good on some euro lime but also like the old orange instinct slipper. I would definitely consider trying the grip rubber, I find the edge seems to ping of small holds quite easily.
For bouldering I prefer Grip but for Uk mountain trad I prefer edge, if they're like the old instinct slipper I'll stay away I don't want something that soft!
Mike Hutton continues his tour of the UK and Ireland's finest crags with a visit to Wilton Quarries. Read more
We've been making Bouldering pads here in the UK AlpFactory for over 10 years now. In that time we've learnt a lot; in terms... Read more
Lowe Alpine is calling on all winter warriors to help #makewintercount! Over the whole of winter, starting in November,... Read more
Stefano Ghisolfi has made the second ascent of Alex Megos' (9b+) at . He spent 32 days trying the route and falling repeatedly... Read more