UKC

The Maestro is an antidote to crippling downturned performance shoes, says Theo Moore: a comfy flat(ish) shoe which still manages to pack a technical punch

Read more

In reply to UKC Gear:

Looks like a slightly dialled-back successor to the previous Vapor V, which I wish I'd stockpiled before it got discontinued. Is that a fair comparison?

In reply to MonkeyPuzzle:

Having used the previous version of the Vapor V (the more orangey ones, the version before these: https://www.scarpa.co.uk/climb/vapour-v/) I would say the Vapor V are much stiffer and more down-turned whilst the Maestro are flatter and softer.

In reply to Theo Moore:

Thanks Theo. Sounds like they'll be on the shortlist for my next shoe.

In reply to Theo Moore:

Are they as ridiculously wide as the other Scarpas? I'm sticking with pinks at the moment but am looking something a bit more supportive.

In reply to UKC Gear:

What you say about the Mastero's softening up over time is also true about the new Vapour Laces (yellow ones), I'm now on my second pair and found both softened up too much after 3/4 months use. I got a new pair this year and after 3 months (admittedly I've done nearly 150 pitches) they're now IMO too soft for longer trad and are rather painful as I found on cloggy this weekend! 

Need to think what I want to try next, problem is I love the sensitivity the vapour's have once broken in, maybe the mastero mid's as they have a stiffer midsole? 

In reply to galpinos:

Certainly hope so   curious to try these as my vapor v are a bit harsh for my poor old feet on all day routes. 

 

In reply to galpinos:

I wouldn't say they're very wide - I have quite narrow feet and they fit me well.

In reply to Theo Moore:

Cheers Theo, though I can't equate narrow feet and wearing Instinct VSs.......

I have a pair of excruciatingly tight Vapour V's but wanted something more comfortable that I could use for multi-pitch and trad so I bought these a half EU size up from my Vapours, they fit the bill perfectly as I can wear them all day!  I've used these over a couple of trips to the Roaches and North Wales and have only switched to the Vapours once to deal with an overhang, (The Sloth) although to be honest these would have been fine on it.  I actually prefer these to the Vapours, there is a marginal drop in edging but it's more than outweighed by the improvement in smearing (part of this might be due to the slightly relaxed fit).  The review is pretty spot on, the only thing I'd add is that these are great for crack climbing too, the extra toe rubber really helps with toe jams.  Overall I'd highly recommend!

 

In reply to galpinos:

Funny you should say that as, whilst the Instinct VS may be undeniably wide, and perhaps I'm wrong about the width of my feet, I personally don't find Scarpas to be wide (or at least don't find the width to be an issue) when climbing. In contrast I am currently reviewing a pair of velcro shoes from another brand and although length-ways the shoes fit me well and I wouldn't want to go any smaller, I'm finding that my heel is lifting out of the shoe slightly due to them being too wide around the ankle and mid-foot.

In reply to Theo Moore:

I find my Vapors nice and wide in across the toe box, but nicely snug across the heel and arch. I used to wear Evolvs and thought that climbing shoes were supposed to be painful.

In reply to galpinos:

Surely if you have narrow feet then la Sportiva are for you? Failing that Outside are selling off Blancos cheap (I have narrow feet and these were my visits if choice before rediscovering Sportiva)

In reply to Tyler:

You're right on both fronts: Miuras fit me excellently and I've just ordered a pair of Blancos from Outside! That said the Instinct VS do fit me really well, are comfortable, and are my go-to shoe...

In reply to Tyler:

No Blancos in my size and never really got on with Sportivas, though might go back to them for another look.

In reply to Theo Moore:

The Instinct last is wide around the front of the foot and the toes. They aren't particularly wide around the heel.

The Instinct is the only performance shoe I have ever found (and I've tried a lot!) that doesn't pinch my toes together if I get the length right. I have tried lots of other shoes that, while too narrow at the front of my foot, are baggy around my heel no matter how much I downsize. Even the other Scarpa models that are still wideish like the Booster, Boostic, Furia, Drago all pinch.

What has always surprised me if the number of people who claim to fit La Sportiva, Five Ten and Tenaya who also claim the Instinct VS is a good fit for them. The Instincts fit me like a glove but Sportiva, Five Ten and Tenaya will leave me in agony after a couple of problems.

In reply to UKC Gear:

I have fairly wide feet (literally can't get a tight pair of anasazis on my feet) and have always found scarpa to be the best fit for me.

Bought a pair of maestro's at the start of the year after a few years of cheap miuras from decathlon, and absolutely love them. Pretty stiff with no compromise on sensitivity. Perfect for trad climbing or long sport onsights, I've climbed many of my hardest routes in them this summer, and think they are bloody brilliant. Starting to lose a bit of stiffness but they still perform great. Ill be getting another pair for sure

In reply to UKC Gear:

Interesting shoe, the stiff market is undersupplied at the minute, glad the manufacturers are realizing not everyone likes soft shoes. Glad Ben rates them for hard trad, as that's always my main concern, traditionally stiff shoes are geared for beginners. I had hoped the Otakis would be the answer to hard trad for people with narrow fit (my foot is way to baggy on Instincts VS), but unfortunately they are not. That picture with the side by side bent comparison really shows the Otakis problem, they are stiff midsole but they bend too much at a hinge point defeating the purpose of underfoot support, so you still get calf pumped on long trad routes. To a point that I say that the old katanas are better at trad than otakis. Katakis are softer. So this Maestros sound like worth a go if they fit a narrow foot. 

In reply to UKC Gear:

I bought a pair on Friday after going through what seemed like half of Cold Mountain Kit's shoe stock, and in addition to all of the above I'd also add that, if they fit, they're great for people who have issues with big toe knuckles being pressed painfully into the front of shoes. The toe area is quite high, and they're the first 'technical' shoes where I haven't had any issues with crippling toe knuckle pain.

Also a huge thanks to Cold Mountain Kit, who very clearly know their shoes and were incredibly helpful. I can't recommend them highly enough if you're in London and need to go shoe shopping.

In reply to Theo Moore:

I think exactly the same and I have VERY narrow feet! Everyone seems to say Scarpa are generally wide. Not in my experience. 

In reply to UKC Gear:

How do these shoe compare to the creme de la creme of comfort - the Mythos? Anyone care to comment please?

In reply to Martin McKenna - Rockfax:

Maybe Scarpa have just got the one size fits all market dialled?

In reply to UKC Gear:

It's very unhelpful that of all the photos illustrating this review, not one shows the actual shape of the shoe from above, or below. Surely this is the most important factor in getting a good fit. For future reference, photographing shoes against a standardised grid would be enormously useful.

In reply to galpinos:

If you mean left in the outside shop, then try rock and run. Seem to have most sizes left and only £55!  Just grabbed myself a pair.  https://rockrun.com/products/five-ten-anasazi-blanco

In reply to joe.91:

The yellow Vapour V fit me we'll but for long term comfort and support I prefer the Miura VS. They both fit quite similar on me but the Miura's seem to stay supportive (due to the plastic insert I guess).

In reply to Theo Moore:

Ditto, I wear the Miuras for Trad and Instinct VSs for steep sport, so that foot shape can't be particularly unusual. Prior to the Instincts I wore the previous generation (orange) Vapors, but found their yellow successors unbearably uncomfortable.

 

In reply to Andy Gamisou:

Thanks. I did grab myself a pair at £60 from Needlesports but I currently have one gigantic foot from an infected insect bite so no idea if I should have gone down half a size.....

In reply to Andy Gamisou:

Thanks. I did grab myself a pair at £60 from Needlesports but I currently have one gigantic foot from an infected insect bite so no idea if I should have gone down half a size.....