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Scarpa Maestro Eco thoughts?

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 Steve_90 20 Jun 2021

Looking at buying a pair of Scarpa Maestro Eco climbing shoes. Heard mixed things about them.

Will be mainly using them for gritstone trad, anything upto E3/E4 (on a good day). Currently use the Instinct VS half a size down from street size. Which were great but would like something a bit more comfortable. I have a wide forefoot and narrow heel. Anyone use them or recomend them, sizing, stretch etc cheers.

Post edited at 18:04
 Kryank 20 Jun 2021
In reply to Steve_90:

Hi mate, 

I use instinct VSR for bouldering and maestro for trad, only leading VS stuff but really love the Maestro, I have them the same size as my instinct (1 size down 45 from my street shoe 46). Had them about a year now, they stretched a little but you can crank the fit with the laces ( I can wear them for an hour or so before I need to take them off at belay)  and soften up abit, I trad on mainly grit, they smear fine and are good on small ledges and slab ripples. Always have confidence and trust with my feet when I’m wearing them, and I notice the difference in support from the full length sole compared to the split sole of the instinct.

I will definitely keep them and resole but if I were to buy again I think I would get the maestro mid to give a bit of ankle protection in cracks etc.

hope that helps.

 Martin Bagshaw 21 Jun 2021
In reply to Steve_90:

I've used them as a dedicated trad shoe for the last year or so, and really rate them. They seem to be a similar stiffness to 5.10 blancos, and have lasted quite well, though I haven't climbed a lot of grit with them.

I take a UK 9.5 / EU44 - same with all other Scarpas I have worn, and a half UK size up in most street shoes. Like you, I suspect I also have a broader front foot and narrower heel than most people - some shoes do slip on me when heel hooking sometimes, but these have been fine so far. I do have a partner who found the Maestros a little too painful to get along with. Sometimes I feel the need to take them off in between pitches, but I would rather have that than a shoe that slips.


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