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REVIEW: Scarpa Mago

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 UKC Gear 14 Apr 2022

The Scarpa Mago is an updated version of an old classic. The old Mago was known for its toe power and, whilst it was amazing on small footholds, it was a bit of a one-trick pony. The new Mago retains that power whilst having an updated construction and shape, new materials and stitching, and being generally more versatile.

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In reply to UKC Gear:

How does this compare to the Boostic? 

I'm looking for a limestone bouldering shoe and have done well in previous seasons with an Instinct VS and occasionally switching to a Furia S for the more polished footholds.

In reply to afx22:

> I'm looking for a limestone bouldering shoe and have done well in previous seasons with an Instinct VS and occasionally switching to a Furia S for the more polished footholds.

Theo is out the office this week, but back next week, so I suspect he'll send an answer through then. That said, I'm not sure he's used the Boostic, and whilst I have - I haven't used the new Mago. As such, it could be tricky to provide an exact answer on that front, although I - much like you - have really rated the Instinct VSR and Furia S as a strong combination whilst bouldering, because their differences compliment each other in terms of style.

For what it's worth, I did use (and review) the original Mago, and whilst that was different - and the model on review does sound a lot better - it does sound similarly specialist (i.e. its all about the toe). I'm not sure how I'd feel about the heel as it is either, because I do like a good heel, and this sounds a little more minimalist than I might like...although again, it's worth nothing I haven't used them...

I'll leave Theo to reply once he's back from Font

#imnotjealous

In reply to Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing:

I currently have both. I’ve been a big fan of 2nd gen Mago and original Boostic. 

I have to say that new Boostic is an amazing shoe (once I got my head around it not being a direct replacement) and appears to be a brilliant all rounder. #3 Mago hasn’t really rocked my world as yet and when I reach for my shoes I seem to pick my resoled Boostics over the new Mago’s. 

On the Mago, I find them generally more comfy than #2 but not as big toe focussed now as the pressure point seems to have moved a little inwards towards the second toe/big toe combination, as per the Boostic. Also, they come higher up toward my ankle bones than #2, just a wee bit, but I notice it. Laces are nicer and better. 

In conclusion, I’ll be buying new Boostics again asap as my resoles need another resole They are brilliant. 
 

Post edited at 06:28
In reply to afx22:

I haven't used the Boostic but my experience of limestone bouldering in the Mago is that they're a bit soft. Personally I prefer something a bit stiffer with more power for limestone - exactly like the Instinct VS - and so I would opt for those. That said, give the Mago a go if you have chance - there's something unique about them which could work well for certain footholds/problems.

In reply to UKC Gear:

Thanks everyone.


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