With the demise of my beloved blancos impending I was after suggestions of what people use for trad climbing in the UK on routes above E1 and not on the grit (got those shoes sorted).
Something supportive for the longer pitches and that performances well on the sorts of variety of terrain we get on a single route in the UK but is more aimed towards edging.
Obviously this will be all down to which shoes fit best but having a shortlist of shoes to try and recommendations would be cool.
I've tried the miura lace and I'm finding them to not be sensitive enough for me and feels like I'm climbing in clogs (maybe I haven't broken them In enough)
I know it is a leftfield suggestion, but Boldrini Tigers (either lace or velcro) are superbly comfortable and relatively stiff. Great rubber as well (Formula Tractor). Quite hard to get a place to try them on though - I'm happy ordering online as I know my size. Resoling service is great as well, though they have to go back to France. Of course, as you rightly note, it is all about fit.
Scarpa Instincts are very popular among my partners. I use the velcro, and I'm onto my fifth pair.
I don't know if its due to technique/footwork improvement or the shoes but i feel alot more solid on my feet this year using my Scarpa Maestro over my old Vapour V's.
That said the V's are getting on and sloppy compared to my much snugger fitting Maestro's so possibly a combination of factors. I do like the Maestro's though.
If you want something similar to the Five Tens might be worth trying the Unparallel Up Lace.
What size blanco do you take, I have a pair that are too tight in 44 (need to check) if that's any use. They have seen little use.
I take a size 44 and would be very interested in buying them from you! I'll PM you
Take a look at Miura VS or Scarpa Boostic, both very stiff. I think i prefer the boostics but the miura VS are better on pocketed/dimpled limestone.
For stiff edging the Maestro is a great shoe.
Just resole the Blanco's.
+1 for Maestro - they smear and edge very well
Scarpa instinct lace, maestro and tc pro, but the latter 2 aren't the most sensitive until you get used to them. Size wise, about 1/2 size down from street shoe.
Cheers for all the suggestions, but I don't find scarpas and my feet get along very well when I've tried them in a shop, the heel cup feels pretty loose and they just don't feel right.
Another shoe I'm keen on trying is the kataki, is this marketed as a similar shoe to the instinct lace?
Edit: with regards to foot shape/width is there a way of taking measurements to work out roughly what width shoes I should be looking at?
The Kataki is a great shoe. I picked a pair up cheap a few years back just to use as a all day comfy pair but they have turned into my go to on everything other than steep bouldering, I've still managed 7a boulders in them (and my hardest sport climbs). They are stiff enough for small limestone edging, have enough give for grit smearing and are really good in cracks. Add to that that I find them really comfortable and you have a perfect shoe IMO. I've had my original pair resoled now and managed to pick up a second pair cheap second hand. I wear these a half size down from my street shoe size and they work well. I normally down size a lot more for performance but don't feel the need to with these. Go try them on.
I love my TC Pros. I have worn them for 6c+/7a overhanging sport routes on limestone and basalt and also find them secure on slabs and small edges and comfortable enough to wear on multipitch trad routes too, if I untie the laces at belays. They did take several sessions to break in though.
Another vote for TC Pros. I love mine. Great all day trad shoe, but technical enough to climb hard sport too (upto 7b for me, but the shoe isn't the limiting factor!). I've got two pairs one 38.5 for single pitches and 39.5 for all day. My approach shoes are 41
TC-Pros and Katanas have been worked well for me. TC-Pros I can wear all day, Katanas tend to come out for the harder single pitches. Maybe they will feel a little similar to Miuras in terms of stiffness though. Personally I like a stiff shoes that's good for edging and cracks.
Austrian climber Barbara Zangerl has made the second ascent of Kampfzone (8b+), a 5-pitch Beat Kammerlander route in the Rätikon, Switzerland. Zangerl's partner, Jacopo Larcher also climbed the route the following day.