UKC

Summer belay jacket

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 Jonnylowit 26 Apr 2020

Winter in Scotland seems to be behind us now, so let’s talk summer gear.

What belay jacket(s) do you bring for summer? 
 

I say belay jacket but it doesn’t have to be strictly for a cold belay just that warm layer for late at camp or to put on during an especially cold day, maybe to keep warm for the bothy bag lunch experience on rainy windy cairngorm plateau or that extra layer for when your £10 euro hike sleeping bag doesn’t hold its heat rating on a Cuillin ridge bivvy

 Basemetal 26 Apr 2020
In reply to Jonnylowit:

I carry a Rab Neutrino smock I've had for about 10years. It's  still got its loft and is just about perfect warmth for cool Scottish summer nights.

In reply to Jonnylowit:

I got on really well with the Montane Prism last summer, something like that would be worth a look: https://www.ukhillwalking.com/gear/clothing/synthetic_insulation/montanes_n...

 Wil Treasure 26 Apr 2020
In reply to Jonnylowit:

I got a lot of use out of an Arc'teryx Atom lt hoodie,it finally gave up last year.not the lightest one, but less rustly and a better fit for me than some others.

Last summer I got a Kilti down smock for about 30 quid. It's been ace, super light, hardly notice it on my harness and very warm. No hood and no pockets, very minimalist, so might not be the ideal camp jacket, but it's perfect for a warm layer on a belay.

 nickcj 26 Apr 2020

I also rate the Montane Prism and pack it for most cragging days outside of winter. I'll use it in combination with the gillet as well for chillier mountain crags.

 SFM 26 Apr 2020
In reply to Jonnylowit:

Whatever down jacket TKMAXX have with a hood for about £40/50 if you are on a budgie or if you are keen to spend cash then some of the synthetics around are good(the ones with less stitching/baffles on the front I’ve found to be warmer in the wind.

 Pipecleaner 26 Apr 2020
In reply to Jonnylowit:

Arcteryx nuclei fl...300g, warm, durable for the weight.  Nothing extra in way of features...just the essentials... windproof, stretch bound cuffs, adjustable hood, two handwarmer pockets and a stuff sac.  

Pricey tho...unless you can find one on sale...i only bit the bullet as i saw one on sale for less than a popular online flash sale site and they did a double the difference match.  Well worth it tho.  

OP Jonnylowit 26 Apr 2020
In reply to Pipecleaner:

I’ve had my eye on one of thee for a while! Glad to hear others getting on well with one too. 
 

I should have clarified I’m not looking to buy a summer belay just now, I also work in a outdoor gear shop. Was just curious what people’s weapons of choice are and if anyone was brave enough to admit to using down in Scotland too! 

 olddirtydoggy 26 Apr 2020
In reply to Jonnylowit:

Montane Prisms for most of us and mates. Light, good in wet and warm. Can pick them up cheap every so often via their factory outlet. They trade on ebay too.

 99ster 27 Apr 2020
In reply to Pipecleaner:

> Arcteryx nuclei fl...300g, warm, durable for the weight.  Nothing extra in way of features...just the essentials... windproof, stretch bound cuffs, adjustable hood, two handwarmer pockets and a stuff sac.  

> Pricey tho...unless you can find one on sale...i only bit the bullet as i saw one on sale for less than a popular online flash sale site and they did a double the difference match.  Well worth it tho.  

Yep - brilliant piece of kit.  One of my favourites.

 Mark Haward 27 Apr 2020
In reply to Jonnylowit:

Over the years I have bought many climbing / mountaineering items of clothing. Some have been great purchases and some not so ( although I've often thought they were great at the time of purchase or because I did not know any of the alternatives - plenty of conscious incompetence in my case! ) Also manufacturers / brands change their designs so sometimes one brand has just the features I'm looking for but a year later the design changes and a different brand has the features.

    So, eventually learning from watching and listening to others, I've  changed the way I approach a purchase. Reviews and what other people suggest is  usually  worth listening to ( I think Dan's reviews are excellent) but IMO the most important part of the decision making process is examining exactly what features you personally want from a product. This has to bear in mind main intended current and future usage, most common conditions in the areas you will use it, how the clothing fits into your current clothing options,  what feels comfortable and right for you ( we all operate at different paces / temperatures ), environmental factors may play a more or less important role for you personally, price and availability. Sometimes I'll even rank the features into 'essential' or 'desirable'.

     You have outlined summer use as a belay jacket in Scotland walking and scrambling, will you also use it when rock climbing ? Assuming you mean rock climbing too I would look for as close a match to the following features as possible:

Synthetic fill - quick to dry, reasonably drizzle proof, most efficient insulating and environmentally friendly I can afford

Strong wind resistance

Hood that goes over helmet ( adjustable )

Pockets accessible when wearing a rucksack / harness and can act as hand warmers

Lightweight 40 - 60 gram fill ( for an active layer more towards 40 but for a jacket to put on when stopped or for the evening more towards 60 )

Cinching cords for a more snug fit when required

Sized to go over my normal active layer ( possibly even over my summer weight hardshell jacket )

Ideally sleeves that can be pushed up the arms

Full length zip for greater versatility

Compact and ability to pack into its own pocket with a strong loop attachment for putting onto a harness.

Sometimes price may trump all; Decathlon often have cheaper and reasonable alternatives with some of the key features. Have fun with the decision making...

 jethro kiernan 27 Apr 2020
In reply to Pipecleaner:

Got one of these of a discount site, usually lives in my summer bag all the time, ideal for cool evening of summit photography and for belays/lunch breaks.

 Martin Bennett 27 Apr 2020
In reply to Jonnylowit:

Even though it's 10 years old I still prefer my RAB Generator to Montane Prism.

If you're thinking of buying one I've a Patagonia synthetic jacket I'd sell. 

In reply to Jonnylowit:

For balance!

I found the Montane Prism nothing special, no warmer than putting a fleece on under a windshirt.

By contrast I find Patagonia Nano Air, Nano Air Light hoody, Arcteryx Proton LT and even Patagonia Nano Puff to be warmer and more wind resistant.

2
 nickcj 28 Apr 2020
In reply to nickinscottishmountains:

I'm curious that you find those pieces more wind resistant than the prism given they are marketed as active insulation and therefore favour breathability over wind proofing?

In reply to Pipecleaner:

RE: Arc'teryx Nuclei FL - testing one of these at the moment and it's a good call. Light and very warm (I run cold), super simple - good belay jacket (apart from no two-way zip?!).

For something that is warmish, tough and transitions well to active I've yet to find something to beat the Patagonia Nanopuff.

 C Witter 28 Apr 2020
In reply to Jonnylowit:

A bit different, but I tend to get by in the Lakes between spring and autumn with a Rab vapour rise jacket, a rain coat, a wooly hat and a buff. That gives you quite a bit of differential in temperature, without being heavy.

If it's cold or I'm camping I have a Prism, too, that I got secondhand from Ebay, which is great. Or, I might just take an old fleece, because I might end up just in that and it is breathable and doesn't matter if it gets roughed up. I find synthetic jackets can get very sweaty, so I'd rather wear a jumper or a fleece than a synthetic jacket unless it is pretty cold.


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