UKC

Dear ukc

Tell me what shoes to buy next.

I currently boulder indoors in Pythons, and do pretty much everything else in Miura Laces. Am interested in getting something somewhat in between - more support than Pythons, more sensitivity than Miuras.

Ideas?

Doesn't have to be Sportiva (am not sponsored). Solutions don't fit my feet.

Instinct VSR?

Ones that fit, otherwise you won't be happy with them, no matter how good they are.

This. Times 100.

Go into a big shop with lots of shoes and tell them you want to try on every single model they have in your size. And then make a decision and support the shop by buying from the shop rather than online.

Avoid buying shoes which are marketed as indoor wall hire shoes or real beginners shoes, other than that, get what feels comfortable for you and feels like you can trust on small edges (experiment in the shop) because that's really all that matters. Until you reach a very high level of climbing ability, it's not going to be the shoes that hold you back and buying into that reason for a lack of performance basically means that you are believing the marketing hype of shoe manufacturers.

I suspect Alan’s been around long enough to know this - not the usual novice “I had some tranatulas they hold me back” post.

Thanks for the replies, but perhaps I needed to be a little clearer: I'm looking at buying (approximately, guessing) my thirtieth pair of climbing shoes here, not my first or second. I really don't need generic "how to buy climbing shoes" advice however well intentioned.

EDIT: posted at the same time as Ian

Tenaya Mundaka? 

Interesting. I had Tenaya Ra's, which were super comfy for multipitch but about the least sensitive shoes I can remember.

Have you tried the Skwama? 

Just spent a month in Spain using them and really impressed. I've not worn either Pythons or Miuras, but I assume the Skwama sits somewhere between them. 

For trashing indoors ive been pleasantly surprised by these : https://www.decathlon.co.uk/edge-climbing-shoes-id_8518549.html?iv_=__iv_p_...

Build quality seems fine. More sensitive than miura laces, stiffer than tenaya oasi.  Were pretty good brand new in font, don't cost the earth.

Mundaka's are completely different. Very soft/sensitive. I didn't like the RA's at all, but I love the Mundaka's.

For the last few years I've sworn by Scarpa Vapour Vs for general climbing and Sportiva Solutions for hard (for me) sport climbing and bouldering. And they both take a resole really well from my experience

Skwama is what you're looking for. You may find you want another half a size down from what you take in other Sportiva shoes, as Skwamas stretch quite a lot. They're mega shoe! 

They're also ridiculously comfy. 

Buy some Scarpa Maestros like mine, or failing that go to a good shop and try lots on and buy the ones that feel best.

I've moved from Miura VS to Scarpa Boostics they seem to edge just as we'll but offer a little more feedback and unlike Miura VS's don't feel like clogs when fresh out of the box.

Jimmy choos 

Ah read the rest - what about Sportiva testarossa? Having used lots of the sportivas like solution, Miura lace which are great, think testarossa are brill because they can do pretty much everything depending on how tightly you lace them and they’re really responsive. Some people may not live the lack of toe rubber but aside from that it’s a great shoe. 

Ah I forgot about them, just bought mine of or retirement (bought barley used for £45). Far comfier than I remember and so precise! I just wish you could get them in XS Edge as I really don't need XS Grip and would prefer the added durability.

Hmm.... But I think my advice wouldn't change

I've been climbing for a lot of years as well but I'd still say that what I suggested is what I do every time a manufacturer stops making my favourite set of climbing shoes of the moment. I think that  you only have to look at the huge range of shoes the pros use to see that it really is just down to personal preference - there is no one manufacturer that makes shoes which are better than the others or one model of shoe that is the best at a specific thing and what each person suggests is really just their own personal preference. To me, it's a bit like asking what the best fruit is if I want something that isn't too sweet - there are probably a score of answers that are all based on personal preference and without tasting yourself, you will never know.

Wow, this is certainly shaping up to be an unhelpful post!