/ PRODUCT NEWS: The GIGA JUL: A new innovation from EDELRID

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EDELRID athlete Tommy Caldwell putting the Giga Jul to use The Giga Jul combines all the advantages of our best-selling Mega Jul with those of a standard tuber.

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dan gibson 19 Jun 2019
In reply to UKC Gear:

What is Tommy doing in the photo?

Luke90 19 Jun 2019
In reply to dan gibson:

> What is Tommy doing in the photo?

Belaying a leader, perhaps?

dan gibson 19 Jun 2019
In reply to Luke90:

Have you ever seen anyone belay a leader like that, in the event of a fall the device will whip up to the top of the sling it’s attached to.

Luke90 19 Jun 2019
In reply to dan gibson:

I was just suggesting a possibility, not saying it was definitely what he was doing or endorsing it as a method. Though in this case, if that is what's happening, it looks like the device would only be moving a relatively short distance because it seems to be connected to a small webbing loop rather than a full sling.

dan gibson 19 Jun 2019
In reply to Luke90:

Yes that’s what I was thinking. Though the sling is short, in the event of a fall the device would be out of reach.

Im sure Tommy knows what he’s doing as he’s done a bit of multi pitch before....

Andypeak 19 Jun 2019
In reply to dan gibson:

I assume the blue rope that is tied in a clove hitch goes down to his harness thus keeping the device near him. 

dan gibson 19 Jun 2019
In reply to Andypeak:

Yes the blue rope with the clove hitch goes to his harness but that is the other end of the rope. So will have no affect on the device moving up.

Iamgregp 19 Jun 2019
In reply to dan gibson:

They might end up doing this when swinging leads to save time at the changeover?

Post edited at 13:31
danm 19 Jun 2019
In reply to Iamgregp:

He's using a pretty standard multi-pitch belay technique if you hail from the Eastern Alps, which is a direct belay off the anchors. There are various methods but most limit the size of the sling or loop (or omit it completely) that the device is clipped into. This method is referred to in the user instructions for the device under section 11.

There's a pretty interesting video by ENSA which appear to show this method has  advantages over the methods we are taught (belay off the harness) in some situations - it's a subject of some controversy though:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eqZQnCGl24A

Dave Rudkin 19 Jun 2019
dan gibson 19 Jun 2019
In reply to Dave Rudkin:

Thanks for that.

Kemics 19 Jun 2019
In reply to Dave Rudkin:

At 07:30 in that video he builds the biggest cluster of a belay. I cant get my head round what is happening. It may be optimal but there must be something said for keeping things simple! 

danm 19 Jun 2019
In reply to Kemics:

Most of that is him stacking the rope to prevent tangles and snags, which is time well spent. It looks ugly but you can guarantee it's efficient.

dan gibson 20 Jun 2019
In reply to danm:

Do you know of a video where that belay construction at 7:30 is shown more clearly, they skip through that bit very quickly.

danm 20 Jun 2019
In reply to dan gibson:

No, but there's bound to be one out there I'm sure!


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