/ NEW REVIEW: The Long Hope - Starring Dave MacLeod

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Dave MacLeod - The Long Hope Route, 5 kbA review of the stunning new film from Hot Aches, The Long Hope.

"The Long Hope is a superb production, which has a real story, magnificent climbing, great characters, amazing locations, stunning cinematography, engaging interviews, emotionally charged reflections, professional editing and above all a happy and heart-warming ending. How climbing films should be done..."

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/review.php?id=4253

Dom Bush28 Nov 2011
In reply to UKC Gear: Great review. I was lucky enough to be at the Long Hope Premiere at Kendal and it was an amazing night. Ed Drummond is a truly inspiring guy, as is Dave in a very different way. Its a great film and an engaging story, which in my eyes, is the most important thing. Well done Hot Aches Crew, Dave, Andy, Ed and Olliver. Loved the film.
Gordon Stainforth 28 Nov 2011
In reply to UKC Gear:

Is it possible that he's belaying round that very lightweight-looking cairn at the top, in the last few frames? If not, what on earth is he doing?
tony 28 Nov 2011
In reply to Land and Sky Media:

I was at the premiere as well, and to say I was hugely impressed would be an understatement. It's much more than a climbing film - the involvement of Ed Drummond and his story took it well beyond the norm. I showed the DVD to my parents a couple of days later - they're not climbers (never have been), but they were completely wrapped up in the intertwined stories.

Hot Aches have made very good climbing films so far. This is more than that - it's an outstanding documentary which deserves a much wider audience than the climbing community.
Dom Bush28 Nov 2011
In reply to tony: Totally agree
Dom Bush28 Nov 2011
In reply to Gordon Stainforth: I think Dave used his cairn sculpture to ab in.....nutter.
Franco Cookson 28 Nov 2011
In reply to tony:

I haven't seen the film, but the words 'where did that strength come from' in the trailer evoke a lot of emotions. I can't wait to see it. It looks fantastic.

And a great review Jack, you gave me a good name for a new route
James Oswald 28 Nov 2011
In reply to Land and Sky Media:
> (In reply to Gordon Stainforth) I think Dave used his cairn sculpture to ab in.....nutter.

I was lucky enough to watch the footage of the crux pitch in July or so. Dave was telling me that initially he made a cairn pile to ab in off when cleaning the route and then they brought some stakes for all the camera men to hang around on for the first ascent.
The footage is absolutely stunning!
ericinbristol 28 Nov 2011
In reply to UKC Gear:

01:09 into the trailer: Andy Kirkpatrick lookalike...
Duncan Campbell 28 Nov 2011
In reply to UKC Gear: Holy Moly, that looks Effin amazing!!!

Inspiration for de Nation!

Dunc
Michael Ryan 28 Nov 2011
In reply to tony:

I agree with you Tony and a great review Jack.

The film is not climbing porn (it has its place), but an engaging and interesting documentary.

As regards the premier on Friday night. I stupidly did not video Ed's and Oliver's speech. Very powerful indeed, especially with Ed's Parkinson's, his references to his family and the inference that he did contemplate ending it all whilst on Hoy.

Did anyone video it out there?

All the best,

Mick
royal 28 Nov 2011
In reply to UKC Gear:
Awesome, downloading now. Thats me sorted for tonight!
TheseKnivesMan 29 Nov 2011
In reply to UKC Gear:

Just downloaded and watched this. What an incredible film, love the way the two stories entwine and build up some real emotion and tension, cutting around and slotting different scenes and descriptions, interviews in sequence right up until the 10 straight minutes of silence where Dave takes on the crux crack. Probabaly the most inspiring and emotionally charged climbing film (If not film) I've ever seen!
Oliver Hill 29 Nov 2011
In reply to UKC Gear: Great review. If I were young and enthusiastic and an E6 climber, I might try the ground up ascent taking 2 days going the way John and Dave Turnbull went. That is taking the Hairy Traverse from the Guillotine and continuing up the grooves to the left of Dave M’s headwall crack, before heel traversing back left to join that crack. A couple of wires would keep the grade at E6, but if you are lucky you might get the E7 tick. This was the way Ed had originally intended going before he saw the thin crack splitting the headwall. On the way up, at the top of the Vile Crack, instead of continuing up as per last 2 ascents, take the Forever Traverse into the heart of the cliff and then straight up The Unconquerable Flakes and Hospital Corner, a left up knight’s move as opposed to an up left. This was the original way. It has not been repeated and is probably no more than E4 5c, the crux of this pitch is likely to be just after where the routes join and was Ed’s second hardest pitch ever, or so he said at the time. The Limbo Traverse moving left onto the grassy slabs has probably not been repeated either, though here Dave Macleod’s way may be better. They may have traversed at a slightly higher level along a big break.
Dave’s last pitch is truly fantastic. I am so pleased he managed it. I remember well the loose blocks he trundled from the Crow’s Nest belay. That is where I started to climb with yards of slack when the ropes would not move up. Fortunately they eventually were pulled in.
My fear in the video was on the descent, a lot of time and nothing I could do. On the ascent I experienced just about every emotion possible except fear and love. When the going got tough, there were more important things to think about.
Stefan Jacobsen 29 Nov 2011
In reply to Duncan Campbell:

> Inspiration for de Nation!

... and abroad
royal 29 Nov 2011
In reply to Oliver Hill:
Mind blowing film and story, it's not very often you see a film that literally has your hands sweating with the emotions and fear of it. Having the original descent in there really gives it context.

Having the Indian Face footage afterwards was really good as well. Daves achievements and level of climbing seem untouchable.


Oliver Hill 29 Nov 2011
In reply to royal: You are right, but nothing is untouchable. the Macleod way will be repeated, ground up onsight. But when? From the Law of Sequences, perhaps in 7 years time: 1970, 1998, 2011, 2018. But by who? Maybe you!
James Oswald 29 Nov 2011
In reply to Oliver Hill:
I'd be willing to bet that the LH route won't be freed again in the next 12 years.
Tom Last 29 Nov 2011
In reply to James Oswald:

My money's on the Belgians.
Roberttaylor 29 Nov 2011
In reply to UKC Gear: Just watched this. Very beautiful film. Adventure climbing at its best.
In reply to Oliver Hill

....a ground up / one day ascent of the line John and I took is the next big challenge for Longhope Route. The main problem we had in 1997 was route finding; the description in the old guidebook was vague and there was no topo, but this isn't issue now. The upper section of the headwall crack (the 6c crux of our ascent) will be in better condition now that Dave Mc has cleaned it. An ascent at E6/A1 makes Longhope Route a realistic prospect for many climbers these days and if it means using a wire or two to aid the headwall then so what.

Paul Diffley and team have done an exceptional job telling the Longhope story and hats off to Dave Mc for his extreme perseverance, l still can't quite believe he stuck with it, the headwall crack looks fantastic and is a major achievement in anyone's book. My only slight reservation I suppose is that the focus on this one super hard pitch might put people off trying the route ground up with the variation headwall pitches; that'd be a pity as this makes for a great adventure at a more balanced and accessible overall grade.

Finally regarding Oliver's point about when the headwall might be repeated - I'd say that unless someone gets in quick (the next 1-2 years) it won't be done for many many years. Lichen grows quickly on north facing crags and cleaning is hard work.
Brown 30 Nov 2011
In reply to Dave Turnbull, BMC:

This accent might however begin to dispel the myth that it is all Mick Fowler territory.

The miss applied XS grades in the guide don't help though.

creag 30 Nov 2011
In reply to UKC Gear:
Great Film. You really feel that Dave is at his utter limit on the hard pitch and its either climb on or take a mighty fall. Every move seems like he is climbing on instinct, bravery and survival... I was gripped. Ed's words and poetry are a really nice touch.
The Indian Face climbing is the same, really good stuff.
Get out there and buy this so Mr Diffley can produce more of this excellent work!
(only thing I didn't like was the music.. can't have everything though eh?)
gingerwolf 30 Nov 2011
In reply to UKC Gear: Watched this last night, and it is awesome! such a moving story about Ed Drummond, and amazing climbing by Dave Mc!
A must watch!
James Oswald 30 Nov 2011
In reply to creag:
He makes Indian Face look very easy! Nothing like the hard pitch on the Longhope route.
royal 02 Dec 2011
In reply to James Oswald:
> (In reply to creag)
> He makes Indian Face look very easy! Nothing like the hard pitch on the Longhope route.

Tenuous delicate slab climbing versus overhanging strenuous crack climbing.
aln 02 Dec 2011
In reply to UKC Gear: It's been a few years since I've bought a climbing film, but I really fancy seeing this. Do the people who've watched it thinks it has re-watch value?
James Oswald 02 Dec 2011
In reply to aln:
I do.
Dave MacLeod 03 Dec 2011
In reply to UKC Gear: Our copies arrived now too and just sat signing a pile of DVDs for the davemacleod.com shop.

I'm sure the Arran/Turnbull variation will get some repeats now the place has had a bit of attention. A few folk have asked me about it. The thing folk should do is go and climb something on the front face of St John's. It's really big and there's not a route on it. I've done a good stint of cleaning on the Longhope. It would be nice to go and try and onsight something that someone else went and cleaned first! There are several fantastic steep lines there.
Yanis Nayu 03 Dec 2011
In reply to aln:
> (In reply to UKC Gear) It's been a few years since I've bought a climbing film, but I really fancy seeing this. Do the people who've watched it thinks it has re-watch value?

I do too. I think it has a wider human dimension that most climbing films don't. I don't want to say too much and risk spoiling it.
jacobjlloyd 04 Dec 2011
In reply to aln: yeah. really good film. Good to support these guys too!
Oliver Hill 04 Dec 2011
In reply to Dave MacLeod: The right arete thin crack going over the large overhang is one. The lower wall left of Vile Crack is another, possibly connecting into the Forever Traverse/Unconquerable Flakes belay, or keeping further left. The former is too hard to onsight. The latter may be possible.

I am curious as to how future new routes should be tackled on St Johns. A traditional ground up, onsight uncleaned way as per Drummond/Hill and Arran/Turnbull or the top down, as the Macleod/Turner last pitch. Both styles result in great routes. For the latter spaced in situ gear would allow for future onights. Should the grading system be the same for both types? Or remain different until onsighted?

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