UKC

Toe clenching

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 humptydumpty 31 Oct 2018

I tend to keep my toes quite flat in my climbing shoes, but if I clench them, then I get a good half inch of space at the end of my shoe.  So I tried some smaller shoes the other day in the shop, and found them incredibly painful, as they put a lot of pressure on the tops of my outer toes (little one, and the one next to it).  How much do you clench your toes when you climb?  (If that's the right word)

 oldie 31 Oct 2018
In reply to humptydumpty:

I clench my toes when frightened. Not good when on tiny holds with no support from end of shoes. This is of course a valid excuse for a lifetime of crap climbing. 

 Reach>Talent 31 Oct 2018
In reply to humptydumpty:

Unless you have odd shaped toes then the knuckled over position is going to be a different shape to a flat foot, so you want a different shoe not just a different size. Mine are fairly curled up.

 Tigger 31 Oct 2018
In reply to humptydumpty:

I fit my shoes quite tight (no where for those frightened toes to run to as they're already clenched). It of course depends on what your climbing and how hard as to how tight you want your shoes. VS I climn in approach shoes as I realised climbing shoes didn't offer enough benefit to be worth the discomfort but an a thin slate slabs I'm glad of tight shoes. I don't buy into the tight shoes are better mindset too much, but go for what fits and allows me to edge on the holds I need to use without the edges rolling. If your shoes are rolling off holds maybe they are a little too big but they may just be the wrong shape for your foot. As for tighter shoes being painful mine are to start with (street shoe 11/10.5 Miura VS in 8.5/9) but I pick leather shoes as I find they mould to my feet much better, I also wet them in the shower when new and then go climbing as it seems to reduce the break-in period by a few sessions and it helps the leather mould to my toes (it does however dye my feet a Simpson's yellow).

Post edited at 20:52
2
 Mike_Gannon 31 Oct 2018
In reply to humptydumpty:

Badly fitted shoes will do two things, ruin your climbing experience and cause you pain while your climbing. If you're really unlucky it may lead to a leg or back injury. My suggestion is to get up to the Lakes and on a wet day, down a bacon buttie and spend a whole day trying shoes. Each shoe is different and there will be one to suit your foot and climbing style

 Dave the Rave 31 Oct 2018
In reply to humptydumpty:

A ratio of 1:3 inches with my buttocks.

 nacnud 01 Nov 2018
In reply to humptydumpty:

> I tend to keep my toes quite flat in my climbing shoes, but if I clench them, then I get a good half inch of space at the end of my shoe.  So I tried some smaller shoes the other day in the shop, and found them incredibly painful, as they put a lot of pressure on the tops of my outer toes (little one, and the one next to it).  How much do you clench your toes when you climb?  (If that's the right word)

If the shoes are painful on the outside of your feet you need to try wider shoes. 

 Jon Greengrass 01 Nov 2018
In reply to humptydumpty:

I think the idea with the clenched/bunched up toe position is that it allows you to put more force through the tips of your shoes which helps in standing on small edges. This ability to stand on small edges can also be achieved with your toes flat if they are strong or with a stiffer sole, B3 mountaineering boots are great on small edges, but rubbish for smearing.

My feet are so wide though that I am not able to buy a pair of shoes on my feet that are short enough for this to happen, so I am always left with a baggy area above and in front of my big toe. Manufacturers really need to start making shoes that fit different shape feet instead of relying on marketing bollox about expensive high end shoes.

Fit (removing any dead space) is the most important thing I made a custom pair of climbing shoes that I can climb 2-3 V-grades harder in than regular shoes.

 nacnud 01 Nov 2018
In reply to Jon Greengrass:

How flexible are your toes? There should be a shoe out there that caters to your feet wether they are wide, narrow, or you need a high volume or low volume toe box etc.

I actually crimp and hold on with my toes so need to have shorter shoes than would be otherwise. The problem with all the marketing stuff is that there isn't really commonly used language to describe all this.

 Timmd 01 Nov 2018
In reply to humptydumpty:

I understand that the problem with scrunched up/compressed toes, is that the toe joints can become arthritic in the end, with some climbers having to have their toe joints fused (I don't know if this is to deal with the pain, or to be able to continue to climb or both).

I found I got toe joint pain the following day after wearing a certain pair of shoes, which didn't seem like a good sign.

Post edited at 11:10
 Jon Greengrass 01 Nov 2018
In reply to nacnud:

> How flexible are your toes? There should be a shoe out there that caters to your feet wether they are wide, narrow, or you need a high volume or low volume toe box etc.escribe all this.

My toes are very flexible and strong, probably as a result of being a toe-walker as a child, a consultant diagnosed me with hypermobility, mild dyspraxia and told my parents I would grow out of the toe-walking  because I would get to heavy for my feet to support, LOL!

My feet are also very wide I or J fitting,  with very low volume, I have tried all makes of shoes I am currently wearing Ocun Ozon+ but even these are too narrow and high volume. Hence the custom made pair of shoes. I'll upload some pictures of the process.

 

GoneFishing111 04 Nov 2018
In reply to humptydumpty:

I must admit i cant get on with flat type shoes at all, i feel much more confident in a downturned style shoe with my toes knuckled over.

Currently using the Skwama in a 9 and i am an 11/12 street shoe. Prior to that i used the Otaki in a 10, again pretty good. 

Depends what you want to do i suppose, the size 9 Skwamas i use for bouldering which is my preferred style of climbing. I have some size 11 vapour laces for trad and some size 10 genius for sport and indoor leading.

The Skwamas were painful for around a week, couldn't keep them on for more than one route, they feel great now, snug, precise and solid on little edges. 

Its all about fit (as in shape of the shoe), i bought some Scarpa Furias in a 45 and they felt like they were a size 5! The Skwamas are 2 sizes smaller still and much comfier!

 krikoman 05 Nov 2018
In reply to humptydumpty:

Comfort over pain every time for me, I wear a 10 outdoors shoes and an 11 climbing shoe. That's possibly one of the reasons I'm shit, but I'd rather being enjoying myself than being in pain.

It all depends what you're trying to achieve I suppose, I don't use chalk for the same reasons, I don't like it so I'd rather not than get any benefit from it (which I'm not convinced of anyhow).

 Timmd 05 Nov 2018
In reply to krikoman: Dodgy elbows have possibly saved my toes in the long run, in not climbing at a level which justifies very tight climbing footwear anymore.

 

 UKB Shark 05 Nov 2018
In reply to humptydumpty:

One potential way round it with tighter shoes is to use  gel toe protectors: https://www.boots.com/boots-pharmaceuticals-gel-toe-cushion-tube-10238097p

 Jon Greengrass 12 Nov 2018
In reply to Jon Greengrass:

I couldn't upload photos to the UKC photo database, because none of the categories match, so here they are on my Instagram

https://www.instagram.com/p/BqAmAANhTLs/

https://www.instagram.com/p/BqAmz1HBygb/

 krikoman 12 Nov 2018
In reply to Jon Greengrass:

5.10 Ascents !!!! they haven't made them for about 10 years!! Probably longer than that.

My first shoe one size bigger than street shoes.

After that Mad Rock frenzy (until they stopped making those too, bastards! )

Now I'm on Red Chili Spirit Velcro Impact Zone Climbing, which they will no doubt stop making soon, if the trend continues.


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