/ Unparallel Up Rise VCS - any owners?

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TomAlford 01 Dec 2019

Anyone owned them? Any good? 

Can't find any reviews, or much sizing beta. How do they compare to the sazi VCS? 

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jezb1 01 Dec 2019
In reply to TomAlford:

Sort of, not worn them on rock yet, sizing seemed the same as my Anasazi VCS’s though.

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ebdon 01 Dec 2019
TomAlford 01 Dec 2019
In reply to ebdon:

Cheers, I'd spotted that but thought a repost might get more a few more responses, as they've been around a bit longer now! 

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Schmiken 02 Dec 2019
In reply to TomAlford:

I've had mine for a couple of weeks, so not a great deal of time. Compared to my Boreal Jokers and Evolv Defys, they are better at edging and are nicely stiff. The rubber is also stickier than both. The Defys are noticeably softer so are better for smeary stuff but I definitely favour the Uprise and would happily get another pair.

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IanNicBit 02 Dec 2019
In reply to TomAlford:

Been climbing in mine for maybe a month or so, previously been climbing in Anasazi and Pros. 
 

I think they have better rubber both in terms of friction and edging. The heel rolls a bit when sideways hooking and the first few times it happens it’s a bit disconcerting but not a big deal.

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greg_may_ 02 Dec 2019
In reply to TomAlford:

Replaced my Anasazi VCS with them. Happy. Edge better, runner is better, slightly tighter heel. Happy. Also, not Adidas...

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nufkin 02 Dec 2019
In reply to greg_may_:

>  Also, not Adidas...

Yet

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RR 03 Dec 2019
In reply to nufkin:

Also not Adidas. Yet ....  

The design of climbing shoes is complex. The Unparallels are good designed (subjective) and well made and seems to be consistent from pair to pair. There is a lot of knowledge in the making of a climbing shoe. It is not a vogue product. 5.10's by Adidas are now made in China, nothing wrong with that, but it looks like the tolerances they apply are wider then before.

I think Adidas is under estimating how critical the design process and production is as they changed the upper material and the composition of rubber and changed sizing. The design of climbing shoes is more complex then street sneakers (my opinion). 

In Finale Ligure are still a few original 5.10 pinks available (two weeks ago).

Yet i hope this takes away some mist in the discussion.

Post edited at 08:02
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Alex1 03 Dec 2019
In reply to RR:

> I think Adidas is under estimating how critical the design process and production is as they changed the upper material and the composition of rubber and changed sizing. The design of climbing shoes is more complex then street sneakers (my opinion). 

I think they just don't know what they are doing - why on earth would you dramatically change the fit of an extremely popular shoe? I've used them for 15 years and now can't wear them, the new fit is terrible.  Does anyone know if their sponsored climbers still wear them? 

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Charlie Noakes 03 Dec 2019
In reply to TomAlford:

After a long time wearing 5.10 I've switched from Anasazi VCS to the Up Rise VCS. Seems pretty much like for like to me, sized the same. If I closed my eyes I wouldn't tell the difference.

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nufkin 04 Dec 2019
In reply to RR:

>  it looks like the tolerances they apply are wider then before.

To be fair to Adidas for a moment, the reason (so said the FiveTen person at a demo recently) their shoes were so hard to come by this year was because they were being much stricter about the manufacture and would not sign off on initial runs. And the size change was to bring things in line with Adidas' range generally. I don't suppose that helps long-time FiveTen wearers, but they probably figure it'll help attract new ones.

Can't deny there is a little bit of anti-giant satisfaction at seeing UP scoop up the FiveTen market, mind

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remus 04 Dec 2019
In reply to nufkin:

> To be fair to Adidas for a moment, the reason (so said the FiveTen person at a demo recently) their shoes were so hard to come by this year was because they were being much stricter about the manufacture and would not sign off on initial runs.

Nothing to do with moving production to china, leaving all the old manufacturing expertise behind and having to work out how to make the same shoes all over again then.

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galpinos 04 Dec 2019
In reply to nufkin:

> To be fair to Adidas for a moment, the reason (so said the FiveTen person at a demo recently) their shoes were so hard to come by this year was because they were being much stricter about the manufacture and would not sign off on initial runs. And the size change was to bring things in line with Adidas' range generally. I don't suppose that helps long-time FiveTen wearers, but they probably figure it'll help attract new ones.

In the language of my youth, chinny reckon. The Adidas stand at Outdoor this summer had only 3 or 4 rock shoes I think? It was like they didn't care. Add to that the poor quality, the sizing c*ck ups, the inability to cope with a realities of the climbing market (lots of small shops stocking just one pair per size etc) and the rumours of burning/destroying all non Adidas branded shoes and I'm happy to jump ship.

> Can't deny there is a little bit of anti-giant satisfaction at seeing UP scoop up the FiveTen market, mind

Very much so.

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galpinos 04 Dec 2019
In reply to TomAlford:

No experience of the uprise but I've gone from Hiangles to the Regulus and they are just like a better made version. Very pleased. I'll be moving over to the UP Lace when my stash of cheap whites runs out and I also like the look of the Vim (V10).

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greg_may_ 04 Dec 2019
In reply to galpinos:

I tried the Up Lace for fit and found the toebox a bit odd. I think it was down to the stiching not working with my odd hammertoes.  Otherwise, felt like a pretty similar fit to something between the pink and white. 

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TomAlford 18:11 Thu
In reply to TomAlford:

Thought I'd respond to my own post after having bought a pair after reading the comments above, for anyone looking in the future. 

Rubber: seems to me similar to the old, good stealth stuff, haven't had any issues what so ever in the short time I've spent with them thus far. It feels to me like it's a wee bit stiffer, or at least thicker around the toe than the old sazis so there is a hint of a difference in feel, but expecting these to go totally soft eventually.

Fit: anasazis with decent heel cups! Amazing! That said, they're quite baggy over the top of the toes, the actual shoe itself seems narrower and taller than the sazi. I ended up going a half size smaller than my old VCS, so a full size down from my street shoe size. 

Build quality: out of the box they seem better thought out and better constructed than the Adidas shoes, where the rubber meets the upper is glued much better and doesn't look like it'll separate as easily as the Adidas ones do.

Overall, I think if you like anasazis, you stand a good chance of liking these, but the sizings are definitely different. And the rubber is awesome. 

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RR 17:38 Sat
In reply to TomAlford:

The Unparalleled VCS has their so-called RH rubber, which has a hardness of 76-80. The rebound (resilience) of that rubber is 13%, and the abrasion is DIN measured 290.

Free translated it is performing quite sticky/giving good friction and long lasting rubber. 

In general as we all know the softer the rubber the more friction, with more abrasion, less longer lasting.

I have no info on the Adidas/5.10 rubber to compare but if we can settle with N=1 (me) I think/have the feeling the Adidas rubber might be less sticky and probably longer lasting as a result.  But as said I have no numbers to reference. 

Not much of help. But sometimes you want things to last the way they are.  I loved the softness of 5.10 Pinks. I think the rubber of the Unparallel VCS comes close, may be better.

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