In reply to jon: Couldn't find a report on the web about that trip but some interesting stuff about John Barry and a disaster on the Eiger.
However Andy Kilpatrick has some interesting stuff on how to avoid frostbitten feet and other foot problems, he also mentions foot slippage
as a problem with vapour barriers
From Andy Kilpartick
BARRIER PROTECTION, Vapour barrier socks have been available now for donkeys years, acting as a barrier between your sweaty feet and the precious insulation in your socks and inner boots. They are usually warn over a thin liner sock, and removed at the end of each day to dry out. At the moment the most readily available sock comes from Black Diamond (£15.99) with Mountain Equipment’s 8000 metre range VB sock available as a special (£18.00). Tough plastic bags do the same job if your less well off, although there not as dependable and usually need replacing each day. With the advances in inner boot and sock insulation robustness, the vapour barrier technique seem less important know then it did in the days of absorbent inner boots and pure wool socks. Drawbacks include the likelihood of various fungal infections and trench foot with extended wear, so good foot hygiene is essential, rubbing the feet with snow, drying and using anti fungal talc each night should keep most unpleasantness as bay. Ammonia builds up in the inner socks quickly so carry plenty of spares.
Another drawback is a large increase in foot slippage due to the slickness of the sock, a real problem when wearing big boots on technical routes.
ANTI PERSPIRANT, By applying a good deal of anti perspirant to feet before embarking on a climb, sock saturation can be reduced considerably. A good spray usually lasts for two or three days depending on the type of climb, climate and climber. A great system for fast technically climbs were you want to avoid the slippage encountered with vapour barrier socks and it may be hard to sort out your feet each night. It can also be used in conjunction with vapour barrier socks to reduce the associated immersion foot problems.
NEOPRENE SOCKS, Neoprene socks have been widely used by American and Canadian climbers for a number of years now, only recently gaining a small following in this country. They basically act as a kind of insulating vapour barrier, worn in-between your inner and outer socks. Make sure you don’t buy them to tight, try at least one size larger then normal, and take into account swollen feet and some expansion of the air bubbles in neoprene at altitude. Gator (£19.99) and Heat Socks (£18.99) are the two main brands. Personally I find them less reliable then standard VB socks, providing very little insulation for there bulk when static for long periods.
WATERPROOF SOCKS, Gore-tex and Seal socks work well for some activities, but when it comes to keeping the foot warm and the outer socks dry inside a plastic boot I find other less high tech methods do a much better job.