In reply to adstapleton:
Tricky one. Some shoes give more than others, always good to know which do give, you don't want to end up with a pair of wellies or a really tight pair that stay tight. I think synthetic material uppers give less.
Also worth noting that your feet get 'stronger' somehow and can put up with more aggressive shoes (its not just the size, its the shape). And I don't buy shoes if my toe knuckle has to bend.
I sometimes end up with pairs for different occasions, tight velcros for sport / bouldering (short wear), all day route shoes, shoes that I can wear socks with and indoor shoes (nearly knackered ones). You can end up like Imelda Marcos if you're not careful, so I end up cycling shoes through their various roles as they age.
Hard routes that take all day is tricky. In those cases I prefer to climb in approach shoes (always 5.10s) as much as possible for the easier (sub E1) or seconding pitches, unless its obviously foolish to do so. This gives my feet a nice break. I've found that as long as its not too edgy, HVS and below feels about the same on Granite (or Grit - don't try it on Limestone!), and its a bloody useful skill to have, but it takes time to get used to it. I appear to have wandered off topic.
Almost anything is fine for indoor climbing as long as they don't have holes in them and they're an ok ish fit, so I never wear tight shoes indoors unless its a competition. Indoor footholds are just way to big to make a difference.