/ Why are there no good synthetic belay jackets?!

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Luuuke - on 27 Nov 2012
So im looking for a new synthetic belay jacket but cant find one thats actually any good! Id like something a bit warmer than 100g weight primaloft, whilst not as heavy and more compressible as the likes of the ME Citadel jacket, good two way zip, helmet compatible hood, good cuffs and hem, bright colour and a stuff sack. is this really too much to ask?
Blue Straggler - on 27 Nov 2012
In reply to Luuuke:

I don't know how it compares in terms of weight and compressibility, or colour range, and it has no stuff sack, BUT hood, cuffs, zip and hem on the Keela Latitude seemed good to me. Mine has kind of died cos I wore it too much around town and so on, but if saved for winter belays I think it would have lasted a good old while. I really liked it but then it was my first such jacket and I'm easily impressed
alasdair19 on 27 Nov 2012
In reply to Luuuke: sadly anything wasrmer than 100g per square m. is not going to be significantly lighter or more compressable than the citadel. It's a limitation of the material.

your best expensive alternatives are patagucci, arcterys or probably best phd. There are however excellent reasons that they use down for when they want to be really warm.
reuphus - on 27 Nov 2012
In reply to Luuuke: I can't say I've had much opportunity to use it in winter mountain conditions yet, but I do like my Rab Photon Belay Jacket:

-Pertex® Endurance water resistant rip stop outer shell, 30D on body, 50D in abrasion areas
-Warm 200g Primaloft® Sport in body and 170g Primaloft® Sport in sleeves
-Light 100g Primaloft® Sport in hood
-1-way YKK water resistant zip with internal insulated zip baffle and chin guard
-Fixed hood with wired peak
-2 YKK zipped fleece lined hand warmer pockets and 2 YKK zipped chest pockets
-1 internal elasticated mesh pocket
-Adjustable velcro cuffs
-Double exit hem drawcord
-Supplied with stuff sac
-Weight 710g

I'm not sure why, but unfortunately it is not in this winter's range so if you're interested you'll have to hope someone happens to have one left in your size. Worth a look though!
Mike-W-99 on 27 Nov 2012
In reply to Blue Straggler:
Don't think the latitude is made anymore although it may be worth a phone as their factory shop is good for a rummage around. I've their advance jacket but no hood sadly.
Denni on 27 Nov 2012
In reply to Luuuke:

When you say you can't find one that's any good, is that from using them in the hills/climbing in crap weather or just not liking them when tried on in the shop?
Denni on 27 Nov 2012
In reply to Denni:

Also, forgot to post this link:
cliff shasby - on 27 Nov 2012
In reply to Luuuke:

arcteryx dually...

very warm,warmer than my old rab summit for sure and nearly half the weight if i remember correctly,not waterproof but wont hold water,good cuffs and stretchy seal round the neck,helmet compatible hood and a big fit to go over everything,large interior pockets for gloves etc and bright..well my red one is,hem cinches up well over a harness to keep the heat in and a 2 way zip and a presstud at the bottom allow you to open a slot big enough for your belay device.
not cheap and i dont know if anyones even selling them in the uk now.
terrarob on 27 Nov 2012
In reply to Luuuke:

Have a look at The North Face Makalu Jkt. 133g Primaloft, 150g lighter than the Citadel and has a waterproof facefabric. I use it as my belay jacket most of the year, particularly winter. Doesn't pack quite as small as a few others but small enough, i just stuff it in a dry bag if needed, really nice jacket!
lumu_tit - on 27 Nov 2012
In reply to Luuuke: Have you considered the Berghaus Ignite Belay Jacket?
thin bob on 28 Nov 2012
In reply to Luuuke:
Agree with Blue Straggler & Denni (I think I bought my Rab Photon off you still going strong! )

pockets aren't the greatest, not lined, but warm. might be due to the slightly longer length.

Photon is a really mice jacket, wish the zip was less fiddly, though.

Synthetic belay jackets seem to be either quite-light to pack small for us sporty types, or massive dog-walker jackets. The old duvet jackets were a nice hip-length...but huge!
TobyA on 28 Nov 2012
In reply to Luuuke: My DAS is nearly 200 grs lighter than the Citadel, although its rather old so don't know the new ones are like.

If I remember correctly RAB is putting more stuffing in the standard Photon (not the Photon Belay, that they don't make anymore) now, annoyingly it doesn't say how many grms/m2 on the website though. Maybe worth asking them. As long as its not to slim on you, they good light belay jackets with excellent hoods.
mr rob - on 28 Nov 2012
TobyA on 28 Nov 2012
In reply to Iain Thow: Excellent Iain, cheers for confirming that. If it's not horribly cold, or if your not standing around for hours, I've found the Photon makes a good belay jacket, in no small part down to having such a great hood.
Rhys Jones - on 28 Nov 2012
In reply to Luuuke: If you can wait a week, pick up a copy of Trek&Mountain magazine. Just tested 12 belay jackets, mostly synthetic. Will definitely be one to suit!

Have you looked at Montane Ice Guide? Or Patagonia Apastron?
dave frost - on 28 Nov 2012
In reply to Luuuke: My PHD belay jacket si bloody brilliant!

TobyA on 28 Nov 2012
In reply to dave frost: Still don't get why they have zip-on-hoods and separate inside collar. If you have a jacket with a hood on it underneath, do you not find that if you zip the collar up it's not really tight? On jackets I've tried with detachable hoods that's always been a problem (see comments in this review about halfway down).
TobyA on 28 Nov 2012
In reply to TobyA: Just checked, according to the Patagonia website the current DAS is 170 g/m2 so bit lighter than the Citadel.

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