UKC

Aonach Eagach Beta please

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 mike123 04 Jul 2024

Firstly , I won’t be surprised if there’s a ukc article that answers my questions about this and apologises for not finding it . A link would be nice if there is . I’ve done it winter a couple of times but the last one was over 20 years ago . I’ve not done it summer . Both times I was doing a fair bit of winter climbing and we soloed the whole way . I want to do it in summer and  would like as much beta about the route and logistics as I can get . It likely to be one car  . I remember hitching in the dark to get the car  while my so called friends got settled in to the clachaig . 

 Mike-W-99 04 Jul 2024
In reply to mike123:

Ways I've done this -

Do the ridge in reverse is probably the best way to get back to the start. Double the scrambling for your money.

Return eastwards from Sgorr nam Fiannaidh and follow roughly the burn down to the big lay-by on the a82(not particularly pleasant). Theres a wee path on the other side of the road (or hitch)

Carry on and do the pap and then drop down to the road and walk to Glencoe village where your lift awaits.

When I was in the glen the other week the usual wee parking area looked awfully busy from I assume folk not wanting to pay to park in the refurbished 3 sisters parking. 

Post edited at 22:27
1
 pasbury 04 Jul 2024
In reply to mike123:

To be honest you can just leave the car at the Clachaig and walk up the glen to do it east to west which is the only direction I've done it in (done in winter and summer). I don't remember any big deal in summer compared to winter. The descent from Am Bodach was a bit tricky and if you follow the crest assiduously then the section after over some pinnacles is as tricky as you want it to be, as usual the descents are more unnerving than the ascents. I remember some could be avoided but not all. It was damp and claggy when I did it and almost unbelievably we made a navigational error on it! Setting off back the way we'd just come about halfway along after a long rest.

Use of a rope is not for me to advise, it's a grade 2/3 scramble but I personally did not find it hard for this grade.

 John Gresty 05 Jul 2024
In reply to mike123:

Done it several times in all conditions summer and winter. Most interesting was climbing Clachaig Gully first and then along the ridge. Strongly recomend this combination, especially if you pass folks coming the opposite direction along the ridge, who get worried when they see you carrying a rope, and imagine that you have hit difficulties and are reversing your steps. Great fun.

John

7
 ExiledScot 05 Jul 2024
In reply to mike123:

In days of olde I've dropped off a couple bikes and locked them together behind or near Jimmy's house. These day I wouldn't recommend it, as somebody would likely throw the whole bundle in a van, and or carries a battery power angle grinder.

 Ramblin dave 05 Jul 2024
In reply to mike123:

If you don't care about getting the Munros then starting at the top end and just reversing the ridge to get back to the car seems like the smart plan. Twice as much scrambling, a couple of hundred metres less descent and no faff with logistics.

 65 05 Jul 2024
In reply to ExiledScot:

Please, never, ever refer to All na Reigh as Jimmy's house. 

 aln 05 Jul 2024
In reply to 65:

Exactly my thoughts. 

 ExiledScot 05 Jul 2024
In reply to 65:

> Please, never, ever refer to All na Reigh as Jimmy's house. 

Well it was but isn't now, we can't deny the facts and pretend bad things didn't happen. For what it's worth I don't know why it hasn't been levelled, ever bit of rubble removed, or just a ring of foundation stone left as a reminder not to trust people who appear too good to be true in future. 

 65 05 Jul 2024
In reply to ExiledScot:

Whatever. Let’s not derail the thread, the last one on this subject was unedifying.

 Rick Graham 05 Jul 2024
In reply to mike123:

Park at the finish.

Taxi, hitch or bus to the start.

Possible variations of all party or just one driver in taxi etc . 

 Sean Kelly 05 Jul 2024
In reply to Rick Graham:

> Park at the finish.

> Taxi, hitch or bus to the start.

> Possible variations of all party or just one driver in taxi etc . 

Agree with that but traverse down to the low col before the Pap, and not directly down to the pub.

Post edited at 19:03
 James0101 05 Jul 2024
In reply to John Gresty:

I thought that this would be a great way to approach the A.E. but got concerned by how long it would take to climb Clahaig Gully, its got a 'characterful" history in the logbook. Good to hear that it is possible 

 GrantM 06 Jul 2024
In reply to mike123:

I've done it a few times with one car east to west, the first time I was bagging the Munros and descended to the big layby south east of the second Munro - steep scree and vegetation so not much fun. Since then I've just reversed all the scrambling and descended the decent path on Am Bodach, The scrambling ends at the pinnacles before Stob Coire Leith so you can turn around there if you don't fancy slogging up the next 2 tops.

 streapadair 07 Jul 2024
In reply to mike123:

Make a day of it, leave your transport somewhere east of the Clachaig, AE W-E, down to that cottage, across to B Fhada, on to Sgreamhach, Bidean, an t-Sron, down to the road. And yes, I've done it.


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