UKC

Hi there,

I'm planning a trip to the Scottish Highlands later this summer and was wondering if the best scrambles are OK for beginners (not climbers).

So, how difficult are An Teallach, Laitach and Aonach Eagach? How do they compare to scrambles in the Lakes (such as Jack's Rake, Knife Edge, etc.)?

Thanks!

Liathach and  An Teallach are grade 2. The Corrag Bhuidhe step on An Teallach is grade 3 if taken direct.. 

But from memory they both have “chicken runs” along the flank, in summer at least, so that you can skip bits that you really don’t fancy. Aonach Eagach, maybe a tad easier, but no chicken runs....

I've only done An Teallach and Liathach in winter but do remember roping up and placing gear at one section of both (though I do remember Liathach had bypasses by the pinnacles (not sure how sketchy these would be without banked up snow?)).  

Many years since I've done them but don't remember them being difficult, but I was rock climbing regularly at the time. If you are at all worried why not try an easier scramble first ? Something like the horns of Alligin is a good day out,  is easier & close to two of the ridges you mention

Thanks, will check it out.

The good grade I scrambles in the Lakes were easy enough, so OK with trying something more challenging.

Where is Knife Edge?

A significant step up from anything in the lakes in terms of length difficulty and exposure. Would take a rope in case anyone freaks out (being beginners you never know)

I agree they're a step up from the grade one scrambles listed but are you seriously suggesting Liathach is a more difficult and exposed scramble than say Pillar Rock?

I really enjoyed Liathach, it does have pretty good bale out / bypass options if you get up there and don't fancy it which is good for beginners. An Teallach was definitely harder.

And yes, take a rope and small rack and know how to use them.

They're all brilliant scrambles but definitely a step up from the likes of Jack's Rake. There is much more exposure and they all require some amount of down climbing too as they're pinnacled - also, they're generally pretty big days in the hills, especially An Teallach. The scrambling sections on An Teallach and Liathach are on Torridonian sandstone, fairly grippy rock but often rounded with sloping holds so might take some getting used to. As mentioned above, both Liathach and An Teallach have options to  bypass sections of scrambling. Good routes to 'warm up' on in the Torridon area would be Beinn Alligin or the Black Carl Pinnacles on the eastern end of Beinn Eighe. Although the Black Carl's are quartzite and fairly short lived, it will give you a good idea on what to expect with the style of scrambling for the routes you've mentioned. 

You probably can't get a ferry for a while and I doubt Djibidl bothy will reopen this year but the Rum Cuillin round is a good one for the future. Various scramble options if you want them, great views if the weather holds and it's nearly always quiet, plus the chance for a bothy stay with fantastic views over to Eigg. And if you're really lucky then dolphins and / or minke whale views from the ferry.

No, i suppose i meant to refer to the general difference in scale between Scotland and the Lakes.

Have a look at the forcan ridge as well. They’re in the same area and would be a good first route as a warm up. But it still is a long hill day but a good one.

Fair enough, it's a good point, they're big days out for sure.

Sorry, I was being picky for no good reason really.

Cool-it's been a long few months for everyone I guess.

Thanks everyone for the info and the suggestions!

Snowdonia: https://www.ukscrambles.com/wales-scrambles/crib-goch/

As others have said, all three are a definite step up in terms of technical difficulty, exposure, commitment and overall scale from Jack's Rake and Sharp Edge (as reflected in their higher scrambling grades).

If you take all the difficulties direct I think Liathach (2) is the easiest of the big three, then Aonach Eagach (2) and then An Teallach (3) - and this one in particular can feel more of a mountaineer's route than a hillwalker's scramble if you take on the crux step. On the other hand you have the option of exposed but less difficult get-out paths on Liathach and An Teallach to miss out the harder stuff, whereas it's all obligatory on AE. Escape from halfway along all three could be tricky, and AE is arguably the most serious in that regard.

People have already mentioned Beinn Alligin (via the Horns), and the Black Carls of Beinn Eighe as good intro routes to the above days, and either or both of these might be a good idea. It's hard to know what  you mean by beginner, but if you were happy on Sharp Edge then neither of these grade 1 routes should feel too much of a stretch on a nice day, except possibly for the overall scale of the days in the highlands versus short Lakeland trips.

Good to see Forcan Ridge (2) getting a mention too: that's up there in quality with Liathach, AE and An Teallach, although shorter and less committing. So that could actually be a good first big Scottish traverse.

Here are some route descriptions, in approximate increasing order of difficulty:

Beinn Alligin https://www.ukhillwalking.com/logbook/r/?i=591

Black Carls https://www.ukhillwalking.com/logbook/r/?i=1273

Forcan Ridge https://www.ukhillwalking.com/logbook/r/?i=72

Liathach https://www.ukhillwalking.com/logbook/r/?i=89

Aonach Eagach https://www.ukhillwalking.com/logbook/r/?i=73 (this one is longer than the standard way of doing it, and in the reverse direction)

An Teallach https://www.ukhillwalking.com/logbook/r/?i=82

Thanks. I've never heard it referred to by that name. I was hoping it was a previously unknown killer ridge in the Lakes.

Thanks a lot Dan! 

On our first trip to Scotland my son and I stumbled across the fiacail ridge on Cairngorm, which is a grade 2 scramble.  Absolutely stupendous but won't be too far away from your comfort zone if you are used to Striding Edge, Sharp Edge, Jack's Rake etc.  If it was south of the border it would be swarming with tourists.  As it was, we had it to ourselves, despite perfect summer weather.  Fantastic views across into the corries either side.  Just one tricky bit which we avoided via a slightly easier route.  Would have definitely kept to the top of the ridge if we had a bit of rope and a few hexes.

Had an fine day out yesterday on the North-West Buttress of Slioch - an excellent Grade II scramble. You should add it to your list. Page 176 here https://www.smc.org.uk/publications/scrambling/highlands-north

You could always buy one of the SMC guides to scrambling in the Highlands written by Iain Thow of this parish.

I recommend aonach eagach curved ridge and tower ridge amazing scrambles 

Tower Ridge is not a scramble. To recommend it to someone who has specified that they are NOT climbers is either A)trolling or B)moronic. 

I hope the latter, because although everything about your account points to a troll, I would hope one wouldn't go as far as to potentially put someone in danger. 

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/ben_nevis-16877/ledge_route-123463 would be a more sensible suggestion. 

Wdum tower ridge is a classic like i said aonach eagach is also good so is curved ridge as long as you have a good head for heights u should be fine  but also liatach would be good and maybe an tellach

It's a classic climb with at least 3 sections of Dif and plenty of Mod from my recollection. Someone asking about scrambles will likely be in big boots and carrying a pack. You'd want a couple of grades in hand to make that manageable. 

Suggesting a committing ridge of that nature to a non-climber is irresponsible. 

I thought it was a grade 2 to 3 because he said he done knife edge wich is exposed he should be ok on aonach eagach and curved ridge 

I don't know what Knife Edge is (I've done the Knife Edge on M Katahdin in Maine, at about grade I but I'm presuming that's not what the OP is talking about). Maybe they meant Crib Goch?

Some of the other scrambles mentioned would be a big but not inconceivable step-up from some of the celebrity grade 1s in North Wales and The Lake District, providing the OP was hill-savvy. 

Tower Ridge is a different animal altogether. 

Ye but as long as he ropes he will be fine

Given your obvious  lack of experience and technical knowledge about these matters I'm not really sure you are either qualified to answer or likely to give a reasoned opinion.

Just noticed that you've basically said the same thing on quite a few threads. Did he nick your last rolo or something?

Maybe!.   I think I run out of patience more easily these days.  But a guide book would go a long way to help his learning.  

You are Aonach eagach is the best and I collect my £5!

No he’s an imposter 

These are lovely little guides and clearly a real labour of love. However, I think some of the routes, even ones with low grades could be unsuitable for beginners due to loose/vegetated rock and difficult route finding. It can sometimes be difficult to tell that from the descriptions too.

A fair point: I would not be surprised if some of the routes in these had not had second ascents! 

Thanks again everyone for the suggestions. We returned last week from a superb week-long trip to the highlands.

The scrambles we eventually did were:

1. Beinn Alligin
2. Fiacaill Ridge
3. Stac Pollaidh
4. Liathach

All were fun and not too demanding. Highly recommended.

next tower ridge ?