UKC

I'm looking forward to a traverse of the Rhinogs, it'll be leisurely over a couple of days and I don't mind a detour from the main ridge to visit interesting spots.

Lakes; Crags; botanically interesting spots, geological curiosities or just good viewpoints.

I await the wisdom of the UKC minds.

The south ridge of rhinog fach is a great scramble, less committing than its grade suggests. You could continue on to the steps up the south buttress of rhinog fawr, which are fun but a bit discontinuous.

I'll have a backpack on - is it committing or are there easier options?

Is that this South Ridge of Rhinog Fach?

The South Ridge (S)#overview

It would have to be a LOT less committing than the grade suggets to be called a scramble.

This place is worth a visit.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bryn_Cader_Faner

There is a grade 3 scramble too - check the logbooks.

Llyn Pryfed is one of my favourite swimming spots. An uncanny place. And all of the Badlands are great. 

That does look amazing, I wonder if there's any evidence that it's authentic and hasn't just been rearranged by a farmer.

Tell me more about the badlands!

I had a spell of visiting megaliths and whatnot all over Wales. Calder Bryan Faner was by far the most atmospheric, especially as a start to the whole north/south Rhinog traverse. I was moved maan.

Refer to Harold Dradso's essay in The Big Walks. He sets the scene brilliantly...

The labyrinthine crest of the range between Moel Wion towards Rhinog Fawr. It's all criss-cross ravines and strangely bonkers. It has a bit of a reputation as the roughest bit of the Northern Rhinogydd, though I did it barefoot last summer, which was probably silly. All of that area is fantastic to explore, especially alone. Enjoy!

P. S. I don't know if this link will work, but here's a map of where I went. 

https://photos.app.goo.gl/SeHtBDWcM4zHq27G9

I'd second Llyn Pryfed as a lovely spot. From there to Bwlch Tyddiad is indeed pretty remarkable country, where the geology conspires against the walker, with deep rocky clefts to traverse. I was amazed that such a great place to walk had very little trace of a path still.

Some piccies in my blog of our own little adventure there last autumn, including Llyn Pyrfed: https://www.wildernessisastateofmind.co.uk/blog/the-rhinogydd-heather-holes...

The whole area is well worth spending time in, not rushing through. Not that it will let you rush through, to be honest!

It can be quite tick-y but its still my favourite bit of snowdonia

Nice account and photos. One mph sounds about right. Yes, Llyn Perfect... although Pryfed rather unenticingly means insects or worms. 

Another vote for Bryn Cader Fanner. Not rearranged by any farmer but nearly dismantled by the army who alarmingly used it as target practice for a spell during WW2.

That is a book I want to own along with the other two.

Brilliant thanks, i’m enthused!

Great blog, thanks.

I plan on starting in Barmouth and doing the southern hills as a brisk walk on day one, maybe get over Rhinog Fach and camp. Then I have a whole day to get up Rhinog Fawr and then start exploring....

The badlands north of Roman steps are great, as already said, best in good visibility as navigation can be "challenging", in the clag it may induce tears! 

Keep looking. Not to crow, but mine was 1 pence on Amazon a few years back...

Y Rhinogydd are the first thing I see every day (lucky, eh!), so I shall keep an eye out for you! Llyn Hywel and Llyn Cwmhosan would be good bivvy spots before a scramble (pick your own line) to the summit of Rhinog Fawr. On the descent to Llyn Du (Rhinog Fawr), have a look for the Llyn Du "eyes". They look like rock carvings but are of geological origin - up to you to find 'em.  When you reach Bwlch Tyddiad (Roman Steps), drop down eastwards towards the forest to try and find an ancient stone built goat milking stool/pen. (above the path, that's all I'll say!). As others have said, take your time with the section between Bwlch Tyddiad and Bwlch Gwylim - the finest mountain area in Wales!! North of Llyn Du (Clip) explore the manganese mines on the west of the ridge towards Llyn Dywarchen before climbing to Moel Ysgyfarnogod (pronounced Moel Sgwar nog od) then boulder to your heart's content on Foel Penolau. A detour to Bryn Cader Faner is certainly worth the effort, especially on a misty day - very atmospheric. The Main Dam on Llyn Trawsfynydd and the decomissioned nuclear power station add a surreal feeling to the end of a wild ridge. Enjoy.

Many thanks, yours is just the sort of local knowledge I was hoping for. My walk will be the better for it even if I don’t manage to find all the sites you mention; I kind of hope I don’t as returns to the area would then be required.

Thanks Myfyr, I'd been wondering how to pronounce that for years. A really slippery customer.

If you're starting in the north begin from Maentwrog and follow the Ceunant Llennyrch gorge, through the "Celtic Rainforest" to the dam at Llyn Trawfynydd. https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3789961

From there head on to the weirdness of Craig y Gwynt, then Moel y Gyrafolen, then traverse the badlands over mini canyons and rocky slabs to Moel Ysgyfarnogod, then Clip. Detours to some of the small lakes round here are worthwhile. https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3897074

From Cwm Bychan you're then onto the main ridge proper.

A worthwhile but time-consuming detour would be to Y Garn, a summit to the east with views over the Coed y Brenin. If you like waterfalls, head down from there to see the Rhaeadr Ddu on the Afon Gamlan.

*edit* I just see you said starting in the south. Oh well...But in which case the scramble up the south side of Rhinog Fawr is mildly diverting. It got g3 in the Scrambles and Easy Climbs book, but is mostly g1 and avoidable.

Wonderfully comprehensive report, I must get up there again soon and have a poke about for some of the things you mention. 

You are spot on with the power station, when I did the Cambrian way I camped the night on the hills overlooking it, at dusk, through the night and dawn it added that surreal presence.  Not saying it is a thing of beauty, but with the light playing on it and the lake in front, the contrast with the hills I had come through made me sit and watch for some time.

Well the Rhinogs were amazing, I did the ridge from Barmouth to Trawsfynydd, keeping to the crest. Didn't manage to get to Bryn Cader Fawr as too boxed for any detours.

Tough going indeed!

Thumbs up, it's great country, good you enjoyed it.

Great stuff. Where did you break it up? 

I think you can get an ointment for that. 

Camped by a small pool above Llyn Dulyn on Diffwys then a second night at Llyn Prefed, marvellous spot, high up and the lake felt surprisingly warm (I didn't swim!).

Moel Ysgyfarnogod is a cracking wee hill. great views to Snowdon.