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what best crampons for Scarpa Mantas

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 Paul Hy 18 Dec 2012
i'm after some suggestions as to what crampons for my Scarpa Mantas. i'll prob do mostly snow summits and bit of scrambling Crib goch, striding edge sort of stuff. any suggestions between G10/G12 and the different fitting types New Classic, New Matic and the other one!!
 climber_medic 18 Dec 2012
In reply to Paul Hy: I own the old Mantas (3/4 season) and fit a pair of Grivel G12's to mine. Seem okay to me and never had any dramas with them coming off etc.

Hope that helps
 hokkyokusei 18 Dec 2012
In reply to Paul Hy:

I'd go for g12 over g10, with the new-matic binding. It will do everything you mention, but with a bit more capability if you get a bit more adventurous.
rich pyne 18 Dec 2012
In reply to Paul Hy: Hiya,

I would trend towards Grivel Air Tech with New Matic bindings.

For the terrain you described, I think they would work a treat. The points are shorter and wider apart on the forefoot making them feel more stable than the other two on rough, bouldery ground,like the Edges.
Of course there is nothing wrong with G10 or 12's.

The New matic binding will give a secure fit (Once correctly fitted), and will help to reduce the chance of your feet getting cold because of the strap going around the front of your ankle that is part of the New Classic (Full Strap On) system.
1
In reply to rich pyne:


The New matic binding will give a secure fit (Once correctly fitted), and will help to reduce the chance of your feet getting cold because of the strap going around the front of your ankle that is part of the New Classic (Full Strap On) system.

I don't understand the above, how will this stop feet getting cold?

Thanks

Stuart
 happy_c 19 Dec 2012
In reply to Stuart the postie: I think in theory that strap can constrict and pull tight, preventing circulation?

I completely made all of that up, but i know in very flexible boots, that should not have crampons on that strap really pulls on your ankle!

Again it was completely made up, be interesting if correct though!
rich pyne 19 Dec 2012
In reply to Stuart the postie: Happy C is right.

It does constrict circulation, most noticably when you are flatfooting up hill or front pointing.

The New Matic binding is wrapped around the boot, so the pressure is not an issue.

Was it an educated guess?, coz you are spot on.

Rich
 CurlyStevo 19 Dec 2012
In reply to rich pyne:
"The points are shorter and wider apart on the forefoot making them feel more stable"

Its only the third points that are wider apart right? Does this really make much difference to stability?
 happy_c 19 Dec 2012
In reply to rich pyne: Just my experience of wearing incorrect boots and crampons, deliberately ill point out too, just to see how they where!

 Tony2 19 Dec 2012
In reply to Paul Hy: After 30 + years of using my old Salewa Everest crampons I thought it was time to get some new ones. I chose Grivel Air Tech (not the lite version...they might not wear as well). I have both Mantas(B2) and Cristallos(B1) (as you do) so got the crampons with "classic" bindings. I have worn them on both pairs of boots in the past 3 weeks and they were great. Last week I climbed grade 1 in North Wales in Mantas and the New Techs were really stable. The shorter spikes were good on the mixed ground. I tend to only climb up to 3 anyway so I find them ideal. The bindings were good and easy to put on.
rich pyne 20 Dec 2012
In reply to happy_c: It hurts a bit doesn't it. I tried it too, it took about ten minutes before my feet were getting cold and sore

rich pyne 20 Dec 2012
In reply to CurlyStevo: The points are shorter all around,it is just wider in the middle(Compared to G12's) putting you closer to the ground. The difference in stability is noticed more in descent after a long day, when your feet and ankles are tired, and you're foot work starts to become a little sloppy.
I've used G1o's,G12's, G14's,Air Techs, Petzl Sarken, and Camp Green Ice. I do seem to get less issues with rolling on the Air Tech's.
rich pyne 20 Dec 2012
In reply to Tony2: Hi Tony2,

The Air Techs are good on rough/mixed ground. I currently have 3 pairs of crampons on the go at the moment, and when I go to Scotland next month for 3 weeks of backpacking and Mountaineering, I will take the Air Techs by choice because i know they are the most suitable all-round crampon for what I intend to do ( Torridon, Skye, Glen Coe and Grey Corries).

Rich
seaofdreams 20 Dec 2012
In reply to Paul Hy:

I would opt for the Air Teach new classic system because the new matic system can (if not fitted well) apply pressure to the heal of the boot casing a blister. The new classic system is just as secure if fitted correctly and will be more likely to adapt to other boots or more worn boots in the future.

the "new" manta (vs the M4 Tech from way back) is much softer at the heal due to thinner leather and the desire to make them "more flexible" in the ankle area. (lord knows why)

I choose the air tech becasue they seam easyier to walk over lean ground in and traverse much better than the "narrower profiled longer pointed" G10 and G12.
OP Paul Hy 21 Dec 2012
In reply to Paul Hy: Well thanks guys for all the info, have gone for the Air Tech New Matics. I'll let you know how they are after a couple of trips to N Wales/Lakes soon.

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