Looking for climbing partners in Dorset area this summer

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 F Lucas 04 Jun 2021


I am based in Hampshire for work this summer and am looking to get outside Trad or Sport climbing.

I’ve mainly climbed indoors for the last couple of years, but have completed a Trad course in the past and have a full rack, rope and transport. Looking to start out again on easy routes and go from there. I currently climb up to 6b indoors.

Free most weekends, and also available during the week indoors, closest wall to me is Golden Gecko in Romsey.

If you’re interested please get in touch!


 Mick Ward 04 Jun 2021
In reply to F Lucas:

Hi Freddie, there's a Dorset Climbers group on Facebook. I'm sure you'll find lots of suitable people on there. There's also at least one club: Wessex Mountaineering.

A word of warning about trad. The obvious venue is Swanage. Although there are relatively amenable areas, basically it's a serious venue with a dismal litany of accidents (many fatal) over the years. Often they come from people thinking, "I can climb HVS," (or whatever) and then discovering that the Swanage equivalent is a very different affair indeed. And that's if they even manage to find the right route. It's a big, complex series of crags. You either need to know that your partner is utterly competent or know that you can get both of you out of a crisis, i.e. that you're effectively guiding.

The Wye valley has loads of trad but obviously it's a long way away and the trad routes may be getting overgrown with the popularity of Wyndcliffe quarry. Ironically many of the Swanage comments apply to Avon too.

Alternatively there's enough sport on Portland to last you for years. If I were you, that's what I'd go for first.

Good luck!


 F Lucas 05 Jun 2021
In reply to Mick Ward:

Hi Mick 

Thanks for the response that’s much appreciated!

All the best 


In reply to F Lucas:

Hi Freddie, 

Are you free on sunday the 6th to do some sport at Portland?

All the best, 


In reply to F Lucas:

Hi Freddie, if you are looking to come towards Avon, Cheddar, Fairy Cave Quarry, Gobin Combe or the Wye valley, drop me a line. I’m recovering from an ankle break last year and have limited mobility on my right ride but still happy leading VS or 6a. Have taught plenty of people to climb over the years…

 atdavis 10 Jun 2021
In reply to F Lucas:

Hi Freddie 

I'm heading down to Portland from London tomorrow. I was due to sport climb with a friend from about 1630 but he can't come now. I'm still heading down so let me know if you feel like joining. 

I climb mostly 5's and some low 6's but happy to belay for any ability. I have a full rack so you just need shoe and harness. 



In reply to F Lucas:

Throwing my hat into the ring - I'd messaged Freddie separately but I'm also based in the Wiltshire area (nr Salisbury, 20 mins from Freddie) for the next couple of months with a similar profile. Climb mainly indoors, have done some outdoor sport, recently got back from a trad course at PYB. Wld be keen for trips to Portland and some SW trad. Wld also be keen to check out Fairy Cave Quarry, particularly with someone a bit more experienced.

In reply to Mick Ward:

Thanks for a helpful post btw! Not to completely rag other users, but sometimes tricky to get the right blend of encouragement and caution. I climbed Swanage for the first time a few weeks ago with an experienced friend and as well as the technical element of abseiling in / making sure you can get out, as a first timer interesting to note how sea cliffs stimulate the amygdala much more than would be expected. Cattle Troughs felt a friendly-ish place to start, subject to the above.

In reply to F Lucas:

I’m on research sabbatical until January and quite keen to get on sport routes on Portland mid-week when I can. Later in July and August mostly, when some earlier trips have been completed elsewhere. Always worth dropping me a line if you are looking for a partner, even if just for an evening as I can sleep in my van on the Island. 

In reply to Eduardo2010:

Bahahaha that's one of the best descriptions I've heard yet about climbing at Swanage! Have you been down to Boulder Ruckle yet? Perfect for Amygdala activation. Likewise, if you want to get out up this way, feel free to get in touch. 

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