UKC

Malvern bouldering

New Topic
Please Register as a New User in order to reply to this topic.
 jamesg85 20 Jun 2024

Anyone up for doing some bouldering in Malvern, by the clocktower? Looks like there's some decent although hard problems. Was thinking of projecting one or two. I don't have a pad so anyone with a pad would be great. A bit of an esoteric venue but let me know if keen. Thanks!

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/clock_tower_wall-17529/

Post edited at 22:38
 TobyA 21 Jun 2024
OP jamesg85 21 Jun 2024
In reply to TobyA:

Thanks! I'll check that out at some point. 

 cwarby 21 Jun 2024
In reply to jamesg85:

Think I replied to MB post you put out for RP Worcester. If you still go there, suggest having a chat with a certain J Dawes. Believe he lives in Colwell.

OP jamesg85 23 Jun 2024
In reply to cwarby:

Yes, thanks, I'll have a chat to him about bouldering in the Malverns. In his book he mentions a problem at Broomhill quarry. Perhaps see you on the moonboard sometime. Think it's being changed back to the 2016 holdset next week apparently. 

 cwarby 05 Jul 2024
In reply to jamesg85:

Well I had a quick look as my sister lives in Malvern. Broomhill quarry is a dank greasy place. The main bouldering round the back of the clock tower was equally greasy with the main crack being actually wet. I can't be bothered to go back. My local suggestion would be Haresfield. I've done a bit there and at Gandalfs. Might be a more productive venue.

In reply to jamesg85:

Hi mate, I used to live by the clock tower in Malvern - the boulder there is actually really good quality rock and climbing, even if the venue might look a bit scrappy. However, given its location it barely gets any sunlight and needs a good sustained dry patch to be worth visiting. The top out mantle is also quite sketchy if you only have one pad/ no spotter but can you can just drop down from the decent holds on the lip if you don’t want to commit.

Re: bouldering close to Worcester - the gandalfs/ haresfield suggestion is good, about an hour from Worcester. Southstone I checked out over a decade ago, there is bouldering potential for sure but also very very sharp pockety holds, not that pleasant to climb on but maybe I just need to go back!
 

If you want local esoterica that’s actually really good climbing then I’d recommend bewdley bypass bridge, it’s very techy vertical sandstone wall  climbing that climbs so much better than it looks. About 30 minutes from Worcester. Totally flat landing so safe as can be really, I’m perfectly happy climbing there alone but like at least one pad. I’ll put a link to a video I made, just scrub through the biblins footage to get an idea - very different to a moonboard but you’ll get very good footwork and very strong fingers! The closest I comparable I can think of is the wall climbs at nesscliffe in terms of style. I’m on my summer holiday now so if you ever want to meet up there and I can show you some of the problems send me an email, I’d say most of the up problems are 6A/Bish and the full travs are probably 7A+/B 

 https://youtu.be/qQS-lYsLf78?si=-obHC3PoLlsEK_Tl

 Sam Beaton 06 Jul 2024
In reply to jamesg85:

I'm seriously impressed with the enthusiasm and optimism in this thread. I once lived in Worcester for three years and the best thing I could say about living there was that you could get to anywhere in Wales within 3 hours

In reply to Sam Beaton:

“What’s your proudest achievement, Johnny?”

”Worcester to Llanberis in 90 minutes.”

I do get what you mean, relative rock poverty in Worcester. But there’s some good stuff about if you’re a boulderer, biblins and some bits of huntsham would stand up anywhere as being worth a visit. Plus I love local esoterica, it’s part of what makes climbing such a rich culture!  

 Sam Beaton 06 Jul 2024
In reply to Wyre Forest Illuminati:

You're right of course, I should have added a smiley face at the end of my last post 😊

 cwarby 06 Jul 2024
In reply to Wyre Forest Illuminati:

Love a video of Biblins and...a bridge!

Good job no one's mentioned Castle Rock.     Oh damn. Some stuff at  Cleeve Hill, but never been. Might be worth a wander, nice view either way.

 Sam Beaton 06 Jul 2024
In reply to cwarby:

A worthwhile bouldering and soloing crag if you were in the area anyway I thought. I tried leading there once, fell off, stripped two wires and decked, and never went back with a rope

OP jamesg85 07 Jul 2024
In reply to Wyre Forest Illuminati:

Just seen this, will send you an email about the Bewdley climbing. Going to save the Malvern bouldering for a sustained period of dry weather. Thanks for the info 

Post edited at 22:44
OP jamesg85 07 Jul 2024
In reply to cwarby:

Yeah, I found it in similar conditions, and just went for a nice walk round the hills in the end ha. Sounds like it needs some sustained dry weather, would be up for it then. 

 Dunthemall 20:25 Tue

Have you tried towards Shrewsbury. lots of rock on the hill tops that dries quickly (and not the sandy limestone of the Cotswolds).


New Topic
Please Register as a New User in order to reply to this topic.
Loading Notifications...