/ Matterhorn - Partner Needed (early Aug)

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bobpilgrem - on 12 Jun 2018

Hi ,

Will be climbing in Chamonix with regular partner 12-29 th July.

Will hopefully be fit and acclimatised- and really fancy climbing Hornli ridge. Would ideally be looking at w/c 30 July.

Really don’t fancy taking the guided option - would be great to do it with like minded experienced climber.

If this could work for you please send me a PM.



Andrew Hannan - on 12 Jun 2018
In reply to bobpilgrem:

Just a suggestion, but if you're set on the Matterhorn it would be better to spend the whole trip around Zermatt/Saas Fee; the rock's completely different to Chamonix granite, the weather patterns are different too, and there are tons of brilliant 4000m peaks to get acclimatised on. Then you can pick your day, which is important especially considering the huge amount of traffic on the Hörnli. Being set on doing it in one fixed weekend could turn dangerous.

My experience of it - I acclimatised for a week with partners (Weißmies and Nadelhorn). Then I hitched to Zermatt and walked up to the Schwarzsee where I bivouacced. Next morning up to the hut; in the evening I went up the first 300m of the climb and back down again so that I'd know where I was going in the dark next morning. Started then at 4 am and was back down at 11am. I'd definitely recommend taking your time and picking a good weather window, it's worth it! 

Post edited at 22:43
bobpilgrem - on 13 Jun 2018
In reply to Andrew Hannan:

Thanks Andrew

But am committed with partner to Chamonix - accommodation sorted . I have a week set aside to do Hornli Ridge- would be a nice way to finish of my trip.

Advise about scouting out first 300 m of route very sound - thanks


Andrew Hannan - on 13 Jun 2018
In reply to bobpilgrem:

Aha ok, that sounds perfect! Yes, scouting the start was time well spent; it's loose and the route is not obvious. It was also good to kind of get the feel of the mountain before the climb proper. I wish you good weather and a great climb! All the best, Andrew

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