UKC

/ Partner required - 2020 - Denali or Ama Dablam

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Shaun Binkley - on 12 Sep 2018

I fancy an unguided attempt on Denali or Ama Dablam in 2020. From what I've found, a guided trip on either will cost £7-10k all-in.

2020 is a long way off but I'm keen to get the ball rolling and see if anyone else has like minded interests.

My experience:

-Partner (met on UKC) summit of Mt Blanc via Trois Monts and Cosmiques Arete - Aug 2018

-Unsucessful attempts on Mt Blanc 2017 and Mt Rainier 2016

Indoor Grades:

Boulder V4/5, Top Rope 6c/7a, Lead 5c

Outdoor Grades:

Top rope 6c, Lead sport 5c, Lead trad VS

Drop me a message, happy to meet up for discussions over coffee/beer/hike.

Dave Cundy - on 13 Sep 2018
In reply to Shaun Binkley:

Might i tactfully suggest that your ambition is getting a little ahead of your abilities?  Leading VS and doing big snow plods (i.e winter II) is a world away a major 'alpine' route. If I were you, I'd spend a couple more years doing stuff in Scotland (learning to operate in crappy weather / conditions on IV) and the Alps (bigger stuff, multi-day). And getting your lead rock climbing up to E1 so that you can move fast over terrain that might entail Severe climbing with bugger-all pro.

planetmarshall on 13 Sep 2018
In reply to Dave Cundy:

> Might i tactfully suggest that your ambition is getting a little ahead of your abilities?

Surely that's the point of ambition?

Dave Cundy - on 13 Sep 2018
In reply to planetmarshall:

True, true.  But as Dirty Harry said, "A man's gotta know his limitations"

Shaun Binkley - on 14 Sep 2018
In reply to Dave Cundy:

Thanks for the advice Dave. I went to the Cairngorms to suffer last winter and intend to this winter too. I read a lot of books, watch a lot of video, rock climb and hike regularly and feel that 2020 is a realistic target for me.

Denali west buttress is a snow plod too, albeit longer, higher and with enormous crevasses, seracs and ungodly weather, oh and a 55 degree slope. I can't wait!

If there's any IV Scottish routes you'd recommend, I'd be happy to hear

Northern Star on 14 Sep 2018
In reply to Shaun Binkley:

Have you though of going to Peru as part of your training (or just to achieve some high peaks in their own right)? 

6,000m+ peaks from reasonably easy to those of a more technical nature can be achieved relatively inexpensively and with local guides/porters if you need them.  A three week holiday, flights to Lima, bus to Huarez and for between £2k - £4k all in (depending on how self sufficient you are), you could probably get two or three 6,000m+ peaks done in your three weeks.

Peaks such as Tocllaraju, Alpamayo, Artesonraju, Chopicalqui and Quitaraju for example.

Local Peruvian Mountain Guides office should be able to point you in the right direction: http://www.peruvianmountainguides.com/

Post edited at 13:10
Pero - on 14 Sep 2018
In reply to Shaun Binkley:

You don't need to climb better than VS for Ama Dablam.  Nor climb hard winter grades.  The main issue is your acclimitisation and fitness at altitude.  Although, you could do with more Alpine AD experience: ridges, mixed climbing, descending steep ground etc.

It depends what you mean by "unguided".  If you want to carry all your own gear up and down Ama Dablam, that's upping the ante.  Even if you do not go on a fully inclusive package, you may want to hire Base Camp facilities and/or some climbing and portering support. 

From my experience, the chances of success going independent or taking pot luck on the Sherpa hiring front are not good.  Whereas, with one of the big names, the Sherpas are all tried and trusted.

The suggestion to go to Peru first is a good one.  You have the same issues there.  Hiring local support in Huaraz, say, is pot luck.  Whereas, again, the organised in-country operations give you certainty about the quality of support staff.

You should, however, have a good chance of getting up some Peru 6000ers on your own, and better with local portering support.  But, to do what could be done in 3 weeks with a package, might need 4-5 weeks if you are on your own.

Post edited at 17:09
John Cuthbert - on 14 Sep 2018
In reply to Pero:

Mate, the huge thing here is not the grade u climb -although that is of some relevance - but that the mountains you have in mind are big step up from what you've done. On these bigger peaks, decision-making and judgement are critical factors, and unless you are some sort of McIntyre type climbing tyro, judgement is not innate, but something gained from experience. I know, I went from several hard winter alpine seasons straight to Annapurna 1 with nothing in between. With retrospect I should have gone to something like Greenland or South America first. At the time I had just done my first E4, WI6, and alpine ED2 just to put things into perspective

 

John C

Pero - on 14 Sep 2018
In reply to John Cuthbert:

> Mate, the huge thing here is not the grade u climb -although that is of some relevance - but that the mountains you have in mind are big step up from what you've done.

Mate, I've climbed Ama Dablam already!

 


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