/ Southern Sandstone Sunday

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argybargy - on 19 Apr 2019

We are two climbers heading to Harrisons rocks on Sunday. First time and I have limited topos. Just looking on here to see if any locals would be up for meeting to show us a few routes down there. I haven't been climbing for a while so some easy routes will do for starters. Harrisons Rocks

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L SiHo - on 25 Apr 2019
In reply to argybargy:

Hi - Did you get a partner?

I actually went to bowles for the first time last weekend, but didn't see this until now.

I took my partner, but she's made it clear that she doesn't really like climbing,  so I'm looking for someone to climb with generally, at Bowles/ Harrison's 

I can't commit to a lot of weekends due to family situation, but can probably go once a month or so.  

I have guidebook and ropes/ slings krabs etc.

If you are in SE London, then I would be up for going to the climbing wall in Woolwich pretty much any weekday evening 

Simon

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mbrookes on 26 Apr 2019
In reply to SiHo:

What grade do you climb? I could do the odd Saturday, and also have a full set of gear. How did you find Bowles on your recent visit? I've been once (last summer), and found setting anchors a PITA, but I guess that's par for the course.

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deacondeacon - on 26 Apr 2019
In reply to mbrookes:

> how did you find Bowles on your recent visit? I've been once (last summer), and found setting anchors a PITA, but I guess that's par for the course.

I haven't been for a good number of years but isnt there anchors above pretty much every route. What makes it a PITA? 

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Trangia on 26 Apr 2019
In reply to argybargy:

Don't want to spoil you fun but according to the forecast, the SE is due for very heavy rain this evening, tonight and tomorrow.

As you will be aware climbing on wet sandstone is discouraged because it can damage the rock, so I suggest you check the local conditions before setting off on Sunday morning.

Fingers crossed it will be ok, but please don't anyone climb there if the rock is wet.

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L SiHo - on 26 Apr 2019
In reply to mbrookes:

I used to go to bowles/ harrisons regularly, but last weekend was the first time in years.

The rock was the same as it ever was. Wish I could say the same about my climbing 

I was struggling on 4b's/ 4c's, but I should be climbing a grade of 2 higher than that when (if) I get fit

Setting up anchors is a bit time consuming, but you get used to it.

Are you available for evening climbs - I could get there for about 6/6.30 ? 

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Slarti B on 26 Apr 2019
In reply to argybargy:

As mentioned elsewhere, it could be wet on Sunday, the water seeps through even if rain has stopped.  Climbing wet sandstone can damage the rock and also makes it more difficult.   If it is wet then Bowles is more open and tends to dry more quickly.

If you do go, make sure you follow sandstone code, eg make sure rope not rubbing on the rock etc. 

Sorry if you know all this already.

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mbrookes on 26 Apr 2019
In reply to SiHo:

Okay, we're probably around the same level for outdoor, which makes it easier. (I'm just starting to crack 6a indoor - flashed a couple in a row, but generally more comfortable around the 5+ mark.)

I'm over an hours drive away on a clear run, so evenings probably wouldn't work, what with traffic and then not having enough time to climb to justify the journey.

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mbrookes on 26 Apr 2019
In reply to deacondeacon:

> isnt there anchors above pretty much every route. What makes it a PITA? 

It's top-rope on sandstone. Most routes have bolts (some you need to use a tree), but you have to set up an anchor over the edge (with slings, crabs, half a plastic bottle, etc.) in order to avoid the rope cutting into the rock (or vice versa). Guessing you didn't do that (tut, tut), or you would know.

It's time consuming to get around to the top, figure out which bolts belong to which climb (if you can see them through the shrubbery - I went late summer), climb down (many are off a ledge below the path), build your anchor, clamber back up, then walk back round and down to the climb.

Send it, then tear down and do the whole performance all over for the next route.

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mbrookes on 26 Apr 2019
In reply to Trangia:

argybargy was going last Sunday. The weather couldn't have been better!

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Trangia on 26 Apr 2019
In reply to mbrookes:

Ah! Thanks, didn't read the OP date properly

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deacondeacon - on 09 May 2019
In reply to mbrookes:

> > 

> It's top-rope on sandstone. Most routes have bolts (some you need to use a tree), but you have to set up an anchor over the edge (with slings, crabs, half a plastic bottle, etc.) in order to avoid the rope cutting into the rock (or vice versa). Guessing you didn't do that (tut, tut), or you would know.

Haha thanks for the education but yep I know how to set a top rope up. 

> It's time consuming to get around to the top, figure out which bolts belong to which climb (if you can see them through the shrubbery - I went late summer), climb down (many are off a ledge below the path), build your anchor, clamber back up, then walk back round and down to the climb.

You know most Crags don't have these bolt anchors on don't you? And these Crags still aren't a pain in the arse as it's just a part of the climbing? If you want a straightforward, no hassle climbing day without any ropework involved it may be better to stick to indoors. 

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