I'm planning on heading to Higgar Tor and try the file on Sunday if anyone wants to get on it. Currently partnerless.
Probably gonna sleep over somewhere the night before for an early start.
i'm rick.climb.caddy on insta if you're interested.
Yep, 'steady' VS is bang on for a climber who can jam and, crucially, use the crack for feet as well.
Most of the route is one big hold, so obviously it's going to feel a lot harder for someone who doesn't know how to use that hold. (Or is unlucky enough to have hands so big or so small that other people's perfect jams will feel 'off' sized.)
My tip for anyone doing a route on the Leaning Block for the first time is to have a quick recce of the downclimb off the back first. It's dead easy, but it can be a bit tricky to find from the top if you don't know it.
A lady takes her first job as a sales clerk in a hardware store. A man comes in and she asks him "Can I help you". He says "Yes I need to buy a file". Knowing very little about tools she says "Any particular kind?" He says "Yes give me a flat bastard." She becomes upset and tells him "I'll have you know I'm a lady and I will not tolerate language such as that." He finds the correct file and shows her the label that it is in fact a Flat Bastard file. A week later a guy comes in to the same lady and says "I need to buy a file." The lady having already sold one knows the drill and asks "Would you like a flat bastard?" He said "Nah give me one of those round muthaf*ckas"