UKC

/ Lost green alien cam South Ridge Direct Arran

Chad123 - on 08 Jun 2018

The South Ridge Direct (VS 5a) Cir Mhor (South Face)

my partner managed to drop my favourite and most expensive cam, one of the old green aliens from Lovatts Layback and it took the long slide down west flank route all the way to the bottom, couldn’t find it when we went down but it must be there somewhere and if not totally trashed by the slide I’d love it back. Great climb too though the Y crack seems tough for VS!

Chad123 - on 11 Jun 2018
In reply to Chad123:

Bump!

Chris Sansum - on 11 Jun 2018
In reply to Chad123:

Looks like we may have been the next party on it after you. Sadly didn’t find your cam. We managed to lose a cam too - I got my partner’s red cam stuck on the crux pitch. My fault - placing at full stretch and over-cammed the thing.

Someone might get some rich pickings out of the route!

Cheers, 

Chris

Chris Sansum - on 11 Jun 2018
In reply to Chad123:

By the way, the ‘slab and overhang variant’ you mentioned on the logbook, was it a traverse rightwards under an overhanging block with an undercut crack, where you had to get your feet close to your hands, then transfer to a layback crack on the right of the block? I was surprised that didn’t get a tech grade in the guidebook (as well as some of the other stuff after the ‘technical’ pitches).

 

Chad123 - on 12 Jun 2018
In reply to Chad123:

No I know the bit you're talking about though, after the traverse, a 4b high step into a layback crack (thought this was the 4b section they mentioned in the guide, though there were a few other equally hard sections! This part was higher, just down and right of the S crack, instead of taking easy grassy ramps I did a thin traverse right to a very faintly pocketed steep slab with an obvious gap in the overhang and a thread runner to aim for, then traversed left back to the start of the S crack, nice climbing and made S crack seem easy in comparison! I think you could find fun granite climbing pretty much everywhere on that face if you are creative!

Chad123 - on 12 Jun 2018
In reply to Chad123:

PS Shame about the cam, but it wouldn't be on the route, more likely someone climbing West Flank Route or Souwester Slabs would find mine....