UKC

Sorry, I couldn't make a longer thread title - it's not meant to be mysterious clickbait. 

This is not a discussion about why/when/how to lift lockdown restrictions, as such.

Nor is it a thread about Paul Sagar, he just provides a handy example (and my impetus for posting)

Paul Sagar's post and thread (so far, at time of writing, 10:35am) "Lovely Locals" in the Rocktalk forum got me thinking. 

Paul has posted a lot about being itching to go climbing. It appears that he went climbing at Winspit yesterday with his girlfriend, unless they were just carrying a rope for fun. Someone asked if he could recommend any routes. 

What's interesting is that he has not actually mentioned the climbing, or whether it was amazing to finally be out climbing, or how it "cleared the cobwebs" or whatever. 

And I've started wondering, people all over the nation are missing their social outdoors recreation and posting all over the place about their frustrations and how they are looking forward to going kitesurfing, scrambling with mates, hooning around downhill MTB trails, freediving etc. 

Absence makes the heart grow fonder but I wonder if long absences tend to distort things a bit and make us build things up into something that they are not. I know freediving friends seem to be exaggerating it a bit much, like their first dip into a cold murky inland quarry is going to massively lift their spirits. 
I wonder what the effect of mass nationwide disappointment and ennui, upon finding out that our beloved hobbies do not provide some magic bullet for all our boredom and woes, might be...

Interesting question. I think I went through a few stages of grief about stopping climbing: sadness, frustration, acceptance, studied indifference for the sake of my mental health...... But I'm very much looking forward to getting out with my pad tonight. I suspect it might be followed by the climbing equivalent of 'post nut syndrome', coupled with bleeding fingertips, which are now softer than my 3 year old's bottom.

I went bouldering yesterday, something i usually do around four times a week. Cant say i am psyched really, i was more happy to see friends than climb.

Edit: Just me and a couple who live together.

People rushing out at the minute feels like a bit of a smash & grab to be honest. Climbers snatching their opportunity to get on something before the harsh lockdown inevitably comes back into force. With the slightest bit of research anyone could see that our restrictions are being eased too early and it's still not okay to go climbing right now. We're inviting a second spike, which is shitty because I'd actually like to salvage a bit of this year and we're not going to if we all go steaming out this weekend. 

For Covid, nothing changed between Tuesday and Wednesday, so why did we? Is it simply that the latest government advice has muddied the waters enough for people to see it as permission to start climbing again? A justification, so they can’t be held accountable for their actions further down the line? If you think it's okay to go climbing now, why didn't you during lockdown? Are we really so incapable of independent thought and action that we have been sitting and waiting for the 'green light' from Downing Street? 

Controversial, I know. I'm as desperate to get out as everyone else but it doesn't make sense to me to jeopardize getting out on something worthwhile later in the year in order to clamber up some local choss right now.    

I went climbing yesterday and it was brilliant!! Did a few routes, went bouldering. Watched the sunset while listening to the cuckoo's.

Heavenly. 

Ah, yes, I didn't want to clog up my OP and meander too much but basically I am ignoring the current "easing of restrictions" (confusing, I know, given that I am using one forum user's climbing trip of yesterday as an example!). 
I was really projecting an imaginary and arbitrary 6 months down the line, after - as you predict - a renewed and harsher lockdown 

In my opinion you've made a good and important point. PERSONALLY I believe that some people (couldn't possibly guess the proportion, but I'm wondering) are enjoying the restrictions of the lockdown, and will have trouble adjusting when it's all over. No great insights or brilliance from me there, I know, but it's been on my mind

~~~Just my personal thoughts, as I said~~~

Edit, I'm not talking about climbing, but about getting out of homes into the wider world again

I've been bouldering locally, it was great, the light through the trees, the birds scurrying through the undergrowth, the sun on my back and the feel of the holds. I also felt strong after a month of finger boarding! Perhaps the happiest I've felt in weeks, I don't know what it is but for me climbing seems one of the ways I can so clearly connect to my surroundings and natural environment. 

For me it's the concept of confinement more than anything. Not having the choice.

Last night I ran around the forest on the top of Haldon Hill, about 4miles from my place in Devon. 

From the East edge the view across East Devon to Dorset and around the shimmering coast to Portland was just stunning.  No disappointment at all. 

I don't think it is any more or any less muddied. Absolutely nothing in the new guidelines has changed which makes climbing in England more acceptable now than it was a week ago. it is just that people have, somewhat bafflingly, chosen to interpret the permission to travel as permission to climb. Either it was ok to climb a week ago and is still ok now, or it wasn't ok a week ago and still isn't ok now. 

Of course a lot of it is about peer pressure. Previously there seemed to be considerable peer pressure not to climb, but once a critical mass of people have chosen to go climbing (with the relaxing of travel restrictions as a spurious excuse) that peer pressure seems to have rapidly evaporated.

Ahh yes climbing will be the problem not people being forced back onto public transport for the sake of the economy, it seems perfectly plausible to enjoy the outdoors with little risk of transmission don't fall for the government's distraction techniques when there's a second spike it'll be because of people being forced back to work not people going cragging.  

Unfortunately a lot of the people going back to work don't have much of a choice in the matter. No one is forcing anyone to go climbing. Yes, the relaxing of restrictions on recreational activities is a minor piece of the larger problem in relaxing the lockdown. But a piece nevertheless. 

From my OP

"This is not a discussion about why/when/how to lift lockdown restrictions, as such"

It's also not about work. 

I'm sure the skin of that drum is going going to split, you've been banging it so hard for so long.......

Previously the guidance was only to leave the house for essential travel and exercise, with the exercise being from the door and as short as possible.

The guidance is now that not only are we allowed to exercise outdoors as mush as we wish, but spend time outdoors "not exercising" and travelling to do that is now acceptable. This is an obvious slackening of the guidance and whilst previously it would be hard to justify climbing now you can see how it would be acceptable, hence the shift in opinion from posters on here, UKC itself and the BMC.

I know you disagree but hey ho, I thought it was worth saying (again).

I believe an analogy to shuffling deck chairs might be appropriate  

OOOps sorry I'll drop this one

If you are lucky enough to be able to climb with someone from your household then I don't see a problem. I can't, but at some point I'll try a bouldering trip somewhere local. If you keep your distance from people not in your household you will not be spreading the virus. Yes we could have been doing that all along but a stricter policy was required IMO to make is simpler for the cops to police, and to make things clear to idiots who just don't get it. Now the police have had time to adjust and the idiots should have got the message, I think it is time for a slight easing.

I'm a fairly consistent critic of the government, but on the initial restrictions, and this slight lifting, I agree... even a broken clock is right twice a day! (the government that is.... obviously I'm right all the time )

I suppose it depends whether you consider climbing to be "exercise" or not. I've always considered it to be so since I don't think exercise needs to be at all vigorous - to me a gentle stroll or a bit of a boulder is still exercise.

My "thing" is canoeing. I've missed it massively. Last night, just on the local canal, I got out for the first time in 52 days and 5 hours. As I loaded the car, sorted out stuff, faffed a bit, it felt as if I hadn't done this for so long that I was clumsy, and I wasn't even sure it was going to be worth the rushing around. However, the instant I pushed off and glided across the calm water, it felt as if it had only been yesterday, like coming home, like putting on a comfy slipper at the end of a long day.

I actually thought I'd been doing enough nature wandering from the front door that I'd been satisfying most of my "need", and that paddling would be nice but just the icing on the cake of being able to drive somewhere different at last.

It was much more than that, it was wonderful to be back, its about a pace and a freedom to look around me instead of where I'm stepping, of being able to move around freely rather than follow paths, of the feeling of the glide and the peace of the water. I used to get these feelings from the warm grit, the movement on the rock, and sitting on the top of a crag after finishing a route so I think it would have been the same if I was still a climber.

I've had a smile on my face ever since. 

This is such a lovely comment.

I went climbing yesterday at my local crag. Yesterday was one of the best days of climbing I've had all year, and I went on a two month climbing trip to Thailand in January. So happy.

Was keen to do races this year, but not going so well.  Then they were all cancelled.  Now I've convinced myself I'm running fast.   Expecting to experience ......... disappointment at resuming activities. 

A long time ago I suffered a really bad leg fracture, narrowly escaping amputation.  I had a year off climbing to heal and recover. The following year was one of my best ever for climbing with back to back E4s. I put this partly down to psyche, but also particular having to do lots of easier routes during the early part of my comeback year which helped my movement, route reading and gear skills.  More important in my mind than boring finger boarding; I can soon get my finger strength back when the walls reopen.

I'm viewing 2020 as similar to my leg break year with the added benefit of better cardio fitness and weight loss from permitted road cycling and already making ambitions plans for 2021.  Climbing in the back end of 2020 would be a bonus. 

Things have to change at some point, and when they change (either at the govt's pace or at the pace you would prefer), that change will have to take place from one day to another. Of course nothing is very different between Tuesday and Wednesday, but it had to be some particular day, didn't it. Even if you want lockdown extended until 2025, at some point there will be a day when things have changed. Why that day, and not the day before, or the day after?

There is clear permission to do so, the current regulations are all on gov.uk and actually very easy to comprehend. I can't see how the guidance is at all unclear - it's simply less strict than before. Remember, though, a few months ago when we were allowed to do pretty much anything we wanted? How ever did people cope, having to decide for themselves? Why, now, do some expect precise and detailed every-scenario explanations from the government?

Last week, the rules taken literally, climbing trips were hard to justify for most.

This week, the rules taken literally, it's absolutely back on the cards.

We are responsible for our actions and always have been. Such dependence on government oversight and instruction isn't what we typically expect from those with an "outdoors" spirit.

Many probably did. The direct answer to your question is because now it is permitted again and most were abiding by the law. I'm not sure what you're getting at here, should we never climb again? Or, when, do you think? When should we be allowed, if ever?

What you're criticising is itself independent thought and action. Many people believe it's safe and OK to go climbing now (and earlier, likely). That's what they're going to do. You think it's not safe, so you won't - and that's fine. By shaming people for "not thinking for themselves" you're really just trying to tell people to think exactly like you, whatever your particular view on lockdown timings happens to be.

This sounds like "the ski trip effect", haha. One forgets all of the unpleasant aspects of a much loved activity, as time passes. See: The Art of Travel, book

Frankly, if people think that it's alright to get back to normal activities then I'd urge them to look harder at the information available.

I'd imagine it's a very small proportion, an even small proportion of those who frequent UKC. I've not spoken to anyone who would rather be indoors.

Nice one. I would echo these thoughts.

After a quick climb last night, I am happier today and I feel like my "normal self" again. I've also had a very productive day at work today (possibly related).

I do feel privileged to live where I do though, and to have a climbing housemate. I don't think I'd be climbing yet if I lived in the SE (in fact I know I wouldn't - not that I intend to judge others).

Slightly at a tangent but when I went for a run this lunchtime I noticed significantly more traffic than last week and even quite a change from Tuesday.

I didn't like it, I wanted the quieter roads back again. It's one of the few things that's been good about this lockdown.

Well for me getting back into climbing today was a kick in the balls. I've become significantly worse, and a lot more timid. Disappointing. 

So in that way, yeah.. The idea of climbing was nicer than the reality. It was a frustrating day for me. But I'm looking forward to gradually getting back to form. 

And it was at least nice to see my friends, and enjoy the outdoors again. 

Like I said on the other thread, it comes back fast.

Wednesday: no head, no footwork, absolutely no endurance, mostly frustrating despite there being a couple of nice lines in the mix

Thursday: confidence massively up, head-game not a problem, endurance still not what it was but felt strong (that'll be the hang boarding and pull ups), moved fluidly, actually enjoyed all the lines.

You lose endurance fast, but you get it back fast, too. The opposite of finger strength, I guess. But this does mean that those of us who punished ourselves on small edges for 7 weeks may, by the end of the summer, be weirdly grateful lockdown happened...

Sorry, only just saw this!

So, I'd say Wednesday was a slight mixed bag, some real frustration at the climbing, which was depressingly far below the standards I'd built to in March. But what was amazing was BEING AT THE CRAG. Being outdoors. Looking at the sea. Moving on rock even if I wasn't moving super well. Just hanging out not in a 1 bedroom flat. Oh and seeing a lizard eating a lizard was pretty cool too!

The real treat, though, was Thursday. The cobwebs had by the blown away, the day was beautiful, my head was back in the game, and we just had loads of fun. I started climbing better, but what was noticeable for me was that whereas I'm usually the guy saying let's just do one more route, yesterday I onsighted Ammonitemare (6a+) in very good style (total sandbag by the way!), my gf seconded it almost clean, and we decided to just stop there and enjoy what had been a lovely day, rather than me insisting on climbing again and again until I could climb no more. Instead we sat about, watched the waves, took our time going back to the van, and were back home at a reasonable hour. It ended up being one of the best days I've had climbing in years. And I'm not going to lie, after 7 weeks of lockdown our relationship definitely was due a day like that!

Lesson: it's easy to forget that climbing at its best is in some ways only 50% about the climbing. So I'd say to all who find their first day back touch-and-go...it gets better! 

Not sure about the disappointment angle, but over the years I’ve come round to the conclusion that there is something of a hierarchy to enjoyment which goes 1. People/company 2. Activity 3. Place

for a while 1. Is going to be in short supply and for me my climbing will be less enjoyable as a result.

I think it's the opposite for me. I don't think I was missing climbing that much. I haven't climbed outdoors since last summer. I've done zero training for climbing during lockdown. I've got into running, which I used to hate. I have been getting outside and that's what it's really about. Although I do miss doing stuff with other people I've got on well with being alone.

Then yesterday I went climbing. I got to Harrisons early and for an hour or so I had the entire crag to myself. I did a bunch of mid grade (for me) classics that I'd forgotten the moves on. It was a revelation. Like being able to walk again after being laid up for a long time. I slowly puzzled each move, discovered it worked and moved up to the next. The rock was warm and dry, my fingers felt at home on it. I sat at the top of each route and looked out at the view and listened to the sounds of nature. 

Pre-lockdown, a day on sandstone would have involved a few of us working hard routes, chatting, encouraging and piss-taking. It would be great, but it's a different thing. I realise that I do really enjoy the climbing for the sake of it, and the silence and solitude.

I'm really looking forward to getting back in my glider, getting away from it all for a bit but it was always going to be a lean year for me anyway with a kid on the way. I'll take the opportunities I get as they arise, no rush. I'm less psyched about a return to instructing, close confines with strangers will take some relearning.

Jk