UKC

Lauteraarhorn summit for Simon Kemper

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 wayne1965 03 May 2022

For those who followed a thread from a few years back .... try and try again and all that shite ...

https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/off_belay/simon4_rip__saying_goodbye-669046?v=1#x8615083

well after a few failed attempts due to broken bodies or broken boots .... I managed it this April with my Son see camptocamp for details...

https://www.camptocamp.org/outings/1413369/en/lauteraarhorn-s-gully-and-se-ridge-

Love him or hate him Simon was a person of strong character, like man climbers, he rubbed some people up the wrong way ... or right way depending on your point of view. Whatever, he was a good man to be with in a tricky spot on some 24hr route in a remote part of the Alpes. Unfortunately time and statistics caught up with him and he's no longer around to put anyone's nose out.

I left his ashes & memorial ice-axe from our first alpine summer in 1991, on the summit but you can imagine how that went with 80kph of wind whipping around ... a part of him is there forever. I'll tick his one missing 4000m peak off his list for him.

 jcw 03 May 2022
In reply to wayne1965:

Wayne, I'm glad you posted that. I hesitated about asking you whether you wanted me to post. He was a great climber and it was a pity that UKC decided to wipe him from the record. I tried to look for him  but like Catharge, delenda est. And I admire your loyalty and determination to ensure that something of him reached that final 4000er

 cdpej 03 May 2022
In reply to wayne1965:

what an amazing thing to do.  well done.  you skied in presumably?

 PaulW 03 May 2022
In reply to wayne1965:

I miss his company and our heated discussions. A mountaineer for sure.

 pec 03 May 2022
In reply to wayne1965:

Well done for doing that, a fitting tibute to him. Simon was the undisputed master of the UKC rant and not afraid to challenge the  groupthink so often displayed on here whilst still being very helpful on actual matters of climbing. As someone closer to his point of view than most on here and a fellow ageing Alpinist who still harbours an ambition to climb the 4000ers he felt like a kindred spirit even though I never knew him.

 65 03 May 2022
In reply to wayne1965:

Good stuff Wayne. He would have approved, severely of course. I will forward your link to the JMC where many members have fond memories of the gnome. 
 

Oddly I thought of him last week while skiing above Orelle and looking over at the Aiguilles des Arve.

Post edited at 20:14
In reply to jcw:

His profile is still there, John. Search for simon4 not Kemper.

In reply to wayne1965:

And well done Wayne for getting him to the summit!

OP wayne1965 04 May 2022
In reply to cdpej:

Yes skied in via konkordiaplatz... 7 day ski tour.... Last three in the Oberland... Grosse grunhorn, finsteraarhorn and Lauteraarhorn 😁.... 74 of 82 done.... Aspirations to finish them next Easter

 cdpej 04 May 2022
In reply to wayne1965:

well done not many Brits have done the 82 list.  You know that John Allen is keeping a record of those that do?

In reply to wayne1965:

> Yes skied in via konkordiaplatz... 7 day ski tour.... Last three in the Oberland... Grosse grunhorn, finsteraarhorn and Lauteraarhorn 😁.... 74 of 82 done.... Aspirations to finish them next Easter

Wow Wayne, that's quite a coup! The Lauteraahorn would be my last Oberland 4000er, but it'll have to remain that way, I'm afraid. Out of interest, to get to the Aarbiwak, is there a short cut from Oberaarjoch? Via the Grunerhorn? Or do you have to go the long way via Scheuchzerhorn/joch?

OP wayne1965 04 May 2022
In reply to cdpej:

I didn't know that ...... someone with a list of list keepers .... hmmmm  

OP wayne1965 04 May 2022
In reply to jon:

Yes ... The other people at the biwak did go that way ... but too technical for us to ski confidently with 15Kg rucksacks... then longer surer route... plus excellent powder on the downhill from Scheuchzerjoch ... also the long way was still only 4.5hrs

OP wayne1965 04 May 2022
In reply to cdpej:

not done it yet

OP wayne1965 04 May 2022
In reply to PaulW:

The true  super dwarf ... throw him at anything and he would generally stick somehow .... and when he didn't... he got back up and went at it again and again. That applied as much to the intellectual world as it did to the physical world.... A very well read & honorable man .... even if I didn't always agree with him.

 jcw 05 May 2022
In reply to jon:

Yes but all his posts have been deleted

In reply to jcw:

No, as far as I can see, they’re still there. When you search on his profile you have to choose ‘older messages’. If I’ve misunderstood you, John, I apologise.

Post edited at 20:40
OP wayne1965 09 May 2022
In reply to jon:

I confirm the entries by Simon can be found using the advanced search at the top of the page.

select "seach by particular auther" for simon4 

His profile is still there ... first time I've read it .... shows his style very well

OP wayne1965 09 May 2022
In reply to wayne1965:

I am a bit disappointed .... no one took the bait .... concerning leaving "rubbish=memorial ice-axe" on top of remote mountain peaks ...

I was looking forward to a good dwarfarian ping-pong

Post edited at 10:41
In reply to wayne1965:

> I am a bit disappointed .... no one took the bait .... concerning leaving "rubbish=memorial ice-axe" on top of remote mountain peaks ...

> I was looking forward to a good dwarfarian ping-pong

Did you hide it well?

OP wayne1965 09 May 2022
In reply to jon:

no not at all well..... 

and his ashes all over the place ... a right mess

In reply to wayne1965:

His ukc profile is here. https://www.ukclimbing.com/user/profile.php?id=20638

"Small, ugly, balding, opinionated, bad-tempered and anti-social. And those are my good points. I am an intermittently very enthusiastic Alpinist, skier and ice-climber. I do make occasional attempts at rock-climbing but am not very good at it.

Best Climbing Experience
It has to be climbing the Aiguille Blanche de Peuterey by the North face with a descent in a storm, was a truly epic outing. 3 days of fierce struggle and we saw no-one till we got to the Monzino hut on the descent, where they were totally amazed to see anyone descending off a route in those conditions. If we had got into any really serious trouble, we would have died, it was get yourself down by your own efforts, by hook or by crook time. Real character building stuff, what mountaineering ought to be!"

In reply to Dan Arkle:

> Best Climbing Experience

> It has to be climbing the Aiguille Blanche de Peuterey by the North face with a descent in a storm, was a truly epic outing. 3 days of fierce struggle...

I remember him recounting that, and yet I can't find his ascent in the database. Maybe I'm not looking hard enough, of course? 

In reply to wayne1965:

> no not at all well..... 

> and his ashes all over the place ... a right mess

You didn't leave them in the Marmite jar, then?

OP wayne1965 10 May 2022
In reply to jon:

NO..... tempted cos he loved that stuff .... but that would've been even more messy (would've be an inquisitive find for the next person to arrive) .... I like to think of him being free in the fresh mountain air ..... which he was ..... all over us!! .... He who laughs last and all that

OP wayne1965 13 May 2022
In reply to jon:

I am looking to tick off Les Droites, Wiesshorn and Grand pillier d'angle this June/July ... if anyone is onterested and likewise motivated ... get in touch ??

OP wayne1965 13 May 2022
In reply to wayne1965:

In case it wasn't clear before ..... after getting to the top of his missing 4000m summit ... The next tribute is to complete the full 82 summits in one life time .... If I get those three ticked this summer ... then have a real chance to finish the others around Easter 2023 ... weather gods and all that permitting

OP wayne1965 17 May 2022
In reply to wayne1965:

So no takers on the 4000m peak bagging then ...... 

perhaps another time on some simple hut to hut trips

 PaulW 17 May 2022
In reply to wayne1965:

Good luck with the remaining summits, I hope you manage to complete them.

On the other hand I have no intention of joining you

In reply to wayne1965:

Sorry Wayne, due to the failing body, I'm restricted to 10 minute approaches to sunny limestone crags......

OP wayne1965 17 May 2022
In reply to jon:

At 57 ... I'm not the wanabee climber I once was .... but I know my time on earth is limited (no history of longevity in m family) .... and more and more with each day that passes .... So I need to get my finger out ..... 3 peaks this summer... the rest next easter and I can hang-up my clogs and watch the grass grow


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