UKC

Have just heard - https://www.climbers-club.co.uk/mark-vallance/ Very sad, had the pleasure of meeting Mark a couple of times. What a lovely bloke, quite apart from his major contributions to the sport. 

Really sad news he was a good freind and a fabulous role model for climbing in so many ways.

His autobiography is here:

https://www.v-publishing.co.uk/books/categories/biographies/wild-country.ht...

That's very sad, though I think his Parkinson's must have been a real blow for someone so active. A man who packed a lot in to life and anyone who has ever fallen on a Friend owes him a debt for getting them to market. RIP Mark.

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 My goodness. Terrible news. RIP.

I had the pleasure of living with Mark and Jan many years ago. At first I really didn't want to be living in the U.K. as we were coming from my first winter in Chamonix. But from that first day in there, I couldn't believe the beauty of the Peak District. Mark gave us a rack and Jody showed me around all the great  grit crags. Although Mark was already dealing with Parkinson's, his love for all things climbing was so strong, he literally breathed climbing. Folks like Ken Wilson would often be at the house discussing climbing, as Mark worked tirelessly on the BMC. 

I hadn't climbed trad much before then, and as I was going through the grades on grit Mark sat me down, drew a graph and explained that with trad climbing and mountaineering, the physical part of getting up the climb is only part of the game, mountain craft,  and what to do if something goes wrong is just as important. A valuable lesson for a young kid.

One day at Frogatt Mark showed us Browns Eliminate, and forbid us to climb it after the death of his friend on it, however, being young and stupid, I had to do it. After doing it I told Jody but begged her not to tell Mark. Later that evening at  the dinner table Jody said 'Guess what Andy did today?' I thought I was going to get the biggest telling off from him, but he was the complete opposite, he congratulated me, and wasn't cross at all. Thanks for that Mark.

Its been a long time since then, but I'd just like to say thanks to the Vallance family, and especially Mark for sharing the love of climbing, you've been a great inspiration, Rest In Peace.

Really sad news. I don’t how long he battled Parkinson’s, but it must have been at least 15 years. But battle it he did, he was a regular at the Edge back in day, having realised that despite the difficulties, climbing kept the disease in check. And always smiling, always happy to chat. A truly inspirational character.

Mark was  a true gentleman with a wry sense of humour.A pretty handy climber as well.Indeed,his  involvement with early cams  means we have many unbroken bones to thank him for.A pity he died:I owed him a pint!

Mark was a regular attendee at our Tuesdaynighter gatherings. On one occasion he ascended The Arete at Tintwistle Knarr with such style that Ken Wilson declared him best in show (I think Crufts was on at the time).

Another memory was when I decided to have a go at Charas at Staden Quarry (we don't always climb at quarries).  I hardly ever lead E1 but it was HVS at the time. Mark belayed. At the crux my foot did the traditional slip and off I came held by a Rock, a Friend and a perfect stop by Mark. So that was three contributions he made to the ascent.  This was followed by suitable encouragement and advice which got me to the top. He followed with ease (though encouraged me further by saying it was hard).

As others have said a gentleman. The attendees with louder voices (there were a few) would stay silent when he had something to say. A good sense of humour. If he proposed a particular crag for the next week one argument would be that Hermann Buhl had never climbed there and even Reinhold Messner had stayed away. This argument often succeeded even though we were left wondering whether it was because the crag was too obscure or too challenging for them.

I am sad I won't be seeing him again but cherish my memory of him.

It was a pleasure to know Mark, to climb with him, attend meetings and share his company.

I didn't know Mark V. personally but did know of, own and use products of his businesses.  It was only when I read his fascinating autobiography "Wild Country" that I discovered how enormous his contribution to the outdoors and the BMC in particular had been, even down to inspiring the BMC (Harveys produced) maps with geology and other stuff on the back of recent years.  Rest in peace Mark, condolences to his family.

That's a lovely tribute to the man. He was a person I felt it would be nice to meet, and your post confirms that feeling.

Very sad to hear this, but so pleased that I knew Mark and climbed with him and spent hours discussing so much together. He was always a joy and an inspiration to spend time with. His determination was inspirational, particularly in recent years his cycle-ride from Lands End to John O'Groats, which he said was the hardest challenge he had ever done, and his determination to say 'goodbye' to all his favourite routes by re-climbing them, which he extended because the climbing was so good! We will miss you Mark - the Friends that you gave me still accompany me on every route that I climb, so in a way you are still there with us on the crags.

Two more obituarys:

http://www.alpine-club.org.uk/ac2/news/obituaries/451-mark-vallance

https://www.thebmc.co.uk/mark-vallance-obituary

...... some more memories

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,18343.1025.html

Plus a thread for anyone  interested in weird and wonderful gear and gear history, that I'd forgotten about but found had grown (when searching if anyone said anything on Supertopo).

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=527817&tn=700