UKC

My better half and I are currently living in Manchester but find ourselves traveling most weekends to spend time either in the mountains or on the beach. So we thought we might as well bite the bullet and move to North Wales. To honest we still love the bars and cultural aspects of Manchester but now that we’re in our mid 30’s this is getting slightly less important these days and the balance has finally tipped in favor of a move. We are both flexible in our jobs so can work from anywhere really.

We both surf and climb so a location that allows reasonable access to both beach and mountain would be good. I guess that this applies to almost anywhere in North Wales but if we had a choice we would much to prefer to live West of a line drawn on the map centered on Colwyn Bay. We would not want to live East from here.

Probably the most important thing is that we are fairly sociable people and as we wouldn’t know many people if we moved then we would like to move somewhere to (or near to) a community with like minded people who are involved in similar pursuits, and where there are regular clubs, social activities and a real sense of community (but not in the Royston Vasey kind of way). A good friendly local pub would help too.

So the big question is;  If you were thinking about moving to North Wales, (with the above criteria in mind) then which location would you move to and why?

Golden Triangle      Anywhere between   Caernarvon Bangor & Llanberis 

Yes, I was going to say Bangor but the golden triangle gives more options.

Thanks, anywhere specific within the golden triangle?  What has it got going for it apart from location?

Last time I visited Bangor around 15 years ago the town center just seemed full of Charity and £1 shops?  Has it changed?

No town round here will compare to Manchester but there's some little gems of nice places to eat etc.

I live in Cwm y Glo, nice little village. Nice not to be in Llanberis, but only 5 mins away. 10 minutes to the Beacon, 15 mins to Bangor / Caernarfon. 10 mins to the Pass, 15 to the Slate, 35 mins to the Orme, 40 mins to Gogarth, 40 mins to Tremadog.

Bryn Refail's nice too, and there's a few other nice little villages around.

There are some great places to live and most people are friendly but I would strongly advise that you seek advice from someone native to the area as there are some rough villages/estates and still some resentment from locals in some places towards English 'colonists' - as the graffiti used to say on the road over Anglesey to Holyhead.

I'd be careful, some villages are more unfriendly or have lost their community, just got too small. Ask around about specific areas, even a mile or two can be a big difference. If you have kids think about schools and language issues.

Llanberis is great, people are moving out to surrounding towns but strangely Nant Peris has little to no community from my experience. Plus shit weather. 

Bangor was very run down, I'd be wary of Caernarvon itself.

Totally left field suggestion: Bala

This is based on absolutely nothing more than having stopped for fish +chips there a few weeks ago and being very impressed - it feels like it's rolling it's sleeves up and creating stuff for itself, there seemed to be an air of prosperity and a refreshing diversity of shops.

I've only visited Bangor briefly so not the most informed opinion.  But it is very central for various coastal places, Snowdonia and Anglesey and good transport links.  It is a university city (over half the city's population are students) so assume there must be some nightlife but it might be just studenty stuff.  I think the main thing was the centrality to all the things you wanted.

Very isolated though.

The great thing about Cwm Y Glo is access to airports, coastal crags, A55, Bangor. You feel rural yet 15 minutes from tescos and the rest. Even Scotland trips. 

Its the same for the Ffestiniog area. You're just that bit further in.

I had a friend who lived in Cwm y Glo but moved to NZ (now Canada) and left me his converted van which he has now unfortunately sold... Small world.

Personally? I'd go for Conwy because it's a nice place and the Albion is a really cracking pub. Went to Uni in Bangor, great as a student but I don't think I'd stay... 

Thanks all, some good suggestions so far, will check them out.  Has anyone any experience of the area near Portmadog, or perhaps Betws/Capel Curig areas? 

How about Anglesey?  Is it very Welsh (I am Welsh by birth but not a Welsh speaker)? 

Sounds like people either like or don't like Llanberis.  Is there a reason for this?  Also nearby Llanberis, is the area around Deiniolen worth considering (thinking views and access to the Slate)?

Sorry so many questions I know!

I quite like Deiniolen now but again depends where in the village.

Angelsey I'd say no generally but friends lived out at Penmon and loved it, generally better weather. Some estates are very insular on anglesey. I played soccer for Llangefni, friendly enough but very welsh and maybe not so openly friendly.

re Llanberis, I think most like it, great location, good community, plenty of climbers/runners/bikers. Lots of young 25-40 year olds. But it probably goes in cycles and no doubt has changed a lot since I lived there 7-8 years ago.

Lived in Betws-y-coed for a while, it’s lovely but too far from the Beacon for me. I know that’s sad but being close to the wall is important for me. Betws is very pretty, very busy too though.

Some nice areas around Porthmadog, but further to most climbing and miles to get anywhere else.

Deiniolen wouldn’t be for me but Dinorwig would be.

Llanberis is ok but I like being out of the obvious climbing cliche.

Im pretty picky!

I'd say lleyn peninsula - surfing, 15' to tremadoc and 30 to the hills.

That would bother me in the summer.

Even around llanberis we would take different routes depending on the time of year and day. Living in a great area you have to put up with tourists oblivious to people who actually live and work there... any road sense seems to go when they are on holiday. Driving up the pass just watching climbers and veering all over the place.

Having spent pretty much every holiday for the last 5 years there, I'd suggest having a look at Criccieth. It's big enough that you can get everything you need. Has a few pubs and a decent restaurant or two, it's right on the coast (but I've never seen anyone surfing), about 30 mins from the mountains but it's not "regular" North Wales prices....

Bit further afield closer to your line is around Llanfairfechan, has a cracking little community, not a climbing community like you get in Bethesda / Llanberis though. I live in Abergwyngregyn and it takes me about 15 mins to Ogwen / 20 to the pass. 40 mins to South Stack, 45 to Tremadog etc. The benefit being sat on the A55 I can be in the Peak in just over 2hrs etc. You're close to all the A55 sport too. 

Can't help with north Wales locations as I don't know it, but from a different angle and especially as you have said,

"We are both flexible in our jobs so can work from anywhere really.",

does the move have to be to north Wales?

How about the Lakes or Scotland?

Dave

I lived in Bangor for almost 10 years (as a student, then never left). At the time I enjoyed the place, but now every time I return the nostalgia has gone and it just seems sad and depressing. That said, there are some quite nice parts to it, and some good pubs, and the location is great - between the mountains and the beaches.

So, in the same theme. What about Menai Bridge? Some decent pubs and restaurants (when I was around), good location, but not downtrodden and studenty than Bangor.

If you still wanted to escape back to manchester/chester for city life then somewhere around Llandudno/Colwyn Bay/Conway is a good option as you have quicker access to the A55 and are a good 20 minutes closer than if in the mountains. It has more to do than the smaller villages. The beaches of anglesey are not that far away either, plus the weather s often much better there as well.

In terms of the mountains there are all sorts of options. Llanberis is nice but the weather is much better just down the road in Brynrefail/Llanrug. I drove through Bethel the other day and it has amazing views from the right side of the road. A friend lives in Felinheli on the menai straights where the weather is so much better than anywhere in the mountains. This great weather extends across the whole of anglesey as well, although getting back to the mainland can take time from the nicer villages on the coast.

I think the social side is hard, as many people meet up at places like the climbing wall, a place where many social bounds are formed. I have to admit to not being one for branching out too much and socialise most with friends I have had for a while. For me I think the days of turning up on any random night in the heights and having an unplanned evening are a thing of the past. Maybe that is just me though.

My casual observation is that in your mid 30's you will be 1/2 the age of most of the English speakers in Conwy, Porthmadog & the Llyn.  But perhaps that's ok.

Bangor is a bit untypical because of all the people associated with the Uni and the hospital - so more mixed but not a surf/climb scene.

Forget Betws & Capel

Llanfairfechan is worth a look

I lived in Llanfairfechan for 3 years. Its ok but has little to no amenities although it is only about 15 mins outside Bangor so perhaps not  a big deal.

If you are looking for Utopia you aren't going to find it but if you are willing to engage and contribute to the local community then you'll have fun. As an outsider you will always meet dickheads who make that a point of reference but that will happen almost anywhere you go outside of your home town.

I was pretty flexible when I moved to the area two years ago.  It was more about finding the right house and space than exactly which village I wanted to live in. Ended up about ten minutes from Porthmadog and it has worked out perfectly. Peace and quiet, mountains and crags close, plus the beach and coast. 

And having a small town nearby is much more useful that I had originally thought. Plenty of quality independent shops but also three supermarkets and everything else you need to. 

Good luck with your search. My advice would be take your time and it will all work out. 

I know it’s further east than you are looking - but how about Ruthin or the surrounding villages (I live just outside Cilcain) - 45 mins to ogwen, Anglesey <1hr, Manchester 1hr, Chester 30mins, Liverpool 50 mins.

Clwydian limestone on the doorstep - can walk to the devils gorge in 10 mins - and if you get old and weak like me and don’t climb much anymore - fab fell running on the Clwydians - plus very friendly local communities

I live in Bangor. Outside the city center there are some nice quiet areas which are in easy walking distance of the center if you want to visit a pub. There are also a number of local bands playing, but it’s not the place to be for big bands. 

Obviously in terms of walking and climbing it is 20 to 30 minutes from Ogwen and the Pass. It is also easy to get on to a Anglesey for water sports. 

It is quite a busy place to be during University term time, but gets quiet during the summer months. 

Look between Bethesda and cym y Glo.

So coed y parc,  tregarth, mynydd llandygai,  dinorwic, edges of deiniolen, brynrefail, cym y Glo.

You can get a really nice rural property at a good price, but still only 10 minutes drive to the A55 (and you don't have to drive the bends in and out of llanberis every day if you commute). 

Lots of like minded climbers etc as neighbours, good cafes in dinorwic and brynrefail.

If you are interested in having land with your property then mynydd llandygai is the place to look.

If you like slate then dinorwic is the place to be.

Possibly look at menai bridge, lots of restaurants and pubs, but if you are looking at places with this in mind you need to see them mid winter to see what stays open and busy outside of tourist season.

A good friendly local pub in North Wales?

Good luck with that

I would second this ^

I have lived in the Clwyd region since 1996 and it really is superb. The area mostly sits within an AONB and is very beautiful and also a lot quieter than Snowdonia. The Vale of Clwyd is stunning with many lovely villages as well as the larger towns of Denbigh, Ruthin and Mold.

I live halfway between Mold and Ruthin, my nearest crag is 2 mins walk away, there is a guidebooks worth of climbing within a 15-20 minutes. You can get into Snowdonia in about 45 mins and the major cities of Chester, Liverpool and Manchester are no more than 60 mins away.

Bangor has become even more full of charity shops in the 2 years I’ve lived here. 

That being said it’s a great place to live, fairly central for all the main climbing locations and the weather is far better than in the mountains. Also all the main shops are within cycling distance.

However the prices of houses seem much higher that in the surrounding villages, can only imagine the demand from buy to let has pushed them up.

I am biased but living on N Wales coast is hard to beat. Within half an hour of my front door I can be 1000ft up in the Carneddau and Ogwen / Llanberis 20 to 30 mins away. Anglesey 30 mins and can be back in Liverpool one and a quarter hours. Pubs are ok and shopping, restaurants and great pubs in Llandudno only 20 mins away. Conwy best for night out with great pubs n eateries.

Yeah, but most weekends and especially BH’s your lives must be a misery as everyone descends there and uses your main road the A55?

Living near to Mold we have the blessing of several ways into Snowdonia and several ways out to the North West. 

What do you find unfriendly about welsh pubs ?!? 

To be fair some seem to have improved in recent years but past experiences of being ignored (because we were English), feeling threatened, shit beer....

My Welsh friend (non Welsh-speaking) and his English OH moved there a few years ago. After 2 years they decided to get out, as they were made to feel so unwelcome there. He was constantly niggled at for being Welsh but not speaking the language. She was constantly got at (outside tourist season) for being English. To the point that she had to give up her job in a local shop as so many people either refused to speak English to her, or just told her (in English) that they didn't want her to serve them and would wait for a Welsh speaker.

They're both well-travelled people who've lived in many places in the UK and abroad. They're gregarious and easy to get on with, but my mate said "Anglesey is the only place I've ever lived where I've felt so unwelcome that I had to leave".

Just saying. Others may have different experiences.

The beer is generally poor, average at best when you compare to your typical yorkshire pub. Still better than Scottish beer though...

Again purely anecdotal, but I have a friend (English by birth) who was brought up in Anglesey from a young age (by English parents).

Despite learning Welsh (and speaking it better than many locals who considered themselves 'pure' Welsh) she never felt accepted and was glad when the family left the area.

I've heard similar from a friend whose sister married a Welsh farmer.

Obviously you can't extrapolate that to the whole of Wales, but IMHO it's a bit like Cumbria. It has mountains, it has very expensive affluent areas, it has nice welcoming areas, and it has areas of deprivation and towns/villages full of resentful knuckledraggers.

It also has the added disadvantage that locals who are conversing in English can switch to Welsh the second you open your mouth at the bar (personal experience).

You just need to be very selective and do your research before committing yourself to the move.

Yawn....

What is the general consensus about Penmachno?

I’m in the next valley over - Ysbyty Ifan - which is perfect for me: dead quiet, close to the eastern mountains (Arenig, Migneint, Moelwynion), Betws-y-coed is just down the road and I can reach Llandudno, Llanberis, Bala, Porthmadog in 40 minutes or less. 

No pub, no shops, no buses - I think that Penmachno at least has a pub and buses but it is a very strange ‘end-of-the-line’ kinda place. 

Probably not for the OP!

or screw north wales and go instead to north devon. If you can tolerate the house prices...

I work all over North Wales (Gwynedd, Anglesey, Conwy and Denbighshire), occasionally I get anti English comments/attitudes but I after over a decade here I have come to the conclusion that those people are just not 'nice' people and if they didn't have the language to be nasty about they would find something else!

As for people switching to Welsh... You are in a majority Welsh speaking area people will assume you speak or at least understand Welsh. If it is really important to you to be in the conversation say something in English, they will soon switch languages, and often even apologise for not realising you were a non Welsh speaker... It's not all about YOU!

I remember spending an evening in a very much locals pub.  They were very friendly to us but I think that may have been due to having my dog with us.  

Love North Devon for surfing but it doesn't have any mountains and is also a long way from the Lakes or Scotland.

Agreed, poor compared to the Lakes beer too.  Albion in Conwy seems to do a great pint though.  Surely there must be other good pubs with good beer?  Purple Moose & Conwy Brewery stuff is nice.

Thanks, will take a look, also Beaumaris could be good perhaps?  On the most convenient side of the island I guess.

Very useful stuff, thank you - will take a proper look round there this weekend when I'm over.

Thanks, very useful.  Is the weather really that much better a few miles up the road than it is in Llanberis?  Some sort of micro climate?

Love the Lakes and Scotland.  Scotland is just too far from family and the beaches and surf seems far nicer/better in Wales than in the Lakes.

This sounds good and will look into it.  Similarly the area outside Porthmadog seems lovely.  Surf is good further along the Lleyn.

Have thought about Dinorwig for easy access to the Slate.  Are there many young people round there though (or in this area in general 25-40 age bracket)?  Last time we drove through the population we observed seemed mostly retired.  Maybe the more active lot were already out for the day?

Yes! Less orographic effect. Same as the way Ullapool cops half the rainfall than the far end of Loch broom does. 

Conwy, Llandudno areas all worth a look- well connected and generally an hour from everywhere if you need to drive. 

A few years ago I was told that there were five 100+year olds in dinorwic, the oldest being 105. Must be something in the water!

But yes there are loads of 25-40 year olds in the area, and a fair few older than that who would most likely kick your arse at climbing!!! 

Penmachno is a lovely place. Beautiful, quiet valley yet handy for Betwys/Llanwrst and all the climbing areas. Great mountain bike trails and a great pub serving a choice of local real ales. Hang on, I live there and don't want it overrun with UKCers!

If you want a microclimate then close to Porthmadog is what you want, and then you’re also near to the best crag in north wales!!! (Tremadog)

Yes it is. 3 miles down the road the surrounding hills are a few hundred metres shorter. If you go as far as the coast it can feel like a different country. 

Also worth bearing in mind that they are currently building a new bypass near caernarfon (bontnywedd bypass) which will significantly improve commuting times from further down the coast.

I think it's OK, if it was in Yorkshire or the Lakes I don't think it would stand out. It's just the stand out best beer in a sea of mediocrity and awfully kept cellars. Some Robinson's can be OK though, in the right pub. 

indeed...but bring a snorkel!
Which pub? In Penmachno itself? Ill have to drop in....not too 'local' is it?

The Eagles. 

Smiling to myself listening to people talking about the Welsh switching languages being an indicator of anti-English feeling. I wonder what they'd make of the natives lobbing locks at them  as they did to us on Craig Ddu , September '70.