/ BMC STANAGE festival

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spud_23 - on 24 Jun 2014
The BMC is 70 years old in 2014, and as part of our birthday celebrations we are hosting a festival of climbing and walking at Stanage on the weekend of 28-29 June.

Stanage is one of the UK's best known and most loved crags, an iconic gritstone edge offering everything from classic routes to cutting edge boulder problems. With great hillwalking options and easy access, including by public transport, it is an obvious venue for this event bringing together climbers and walkers from across the UK.


Wild Country athletes Pete Whittaker, Katherine Schirrmacher and Naomi Buys will deliver masterclasses on Saturday 28. Thornbridge outdoors will also be running an outdoor climbing day for 14-17 year olds. All classes cost a bargainous £10, see here to find out more and to book your place.

Free Barbeque

There will be a BMC tent with a free barbeque in the Plantation car park from 4 - 6.30pm on Saturday 28. why not top off a great day out on the crag with a burger and beer on us?

Free lecture

Jordan Buys will be delivering a free lecture at the Outside Cafe in Hathersage from 7.30pm on the Saturday evening. Tickets will be available on the day on a first come-first served basis from the BMC tent at the Stanage plantation car park.

Climbing Challenge

Our local experts have put together a points based challenge to aim you in the direction of some of Stanages more esoteric jems. With a handicap points system making sure that you can't cheat your way to victory by being good at climbing, the prizes kindly donated by Wild Country are there for the taking. Find out how to give it a go.

Wild Country crack machine

Wild Country will also be bringing their infamous Crack Machine along to the Stanage Plantation car park where you can get some Crack tips from Pete Whittaker, grab posters and stickers, enter their raffle and even have a go at the Crack Machine Challenge!

Guided Walk

Peak District National Park rangers will be lead a guided walk on Sunday 29, exploring the history of climbing along the areas gritstone edges. More information can be found on their website.


Camping will be available at the North Lees campsite.

Join us for a weekend of outdoor activities and social events at one of our greatest crags.

Get involved

If you would like to get involved in helping out with the festival please contact

Anyone heading up there?
Offwidth - on 24 Jun 2014
In reply to spud_23:

I'll be there in the tent helping out. It will be the start of 10 years penance to Sloper for putting top-roping as a(lower scoring) option in the climbing challenge ;-)
aultguish on 24 Jun 2014
In reply to spud_23:
I'll be there +1 and looking forward to it )
Offwidth - on 24 Jun 2014
spud_23 - on 24 Jun 2014
In reply to spud_23:

Pfft never an option!

My partner bailed on me (work refused holiday) so anyone fancy showing a new guy the ropes? Pardon the pun!
tatz45 - on 25 Jun 2014
In reply to Offwidth:

What does "any through route" mean?
Offwidth - on 25 Jun 2014
In reply to tatz45:

A route that goes through something!... a tunnel/cave under a chockstone etc (there is a troglodytes tour on page 207 for those who want options (esp wet weather ones).
tatz45 - on 26 Jun 2014
In reply to Offwidth:

Which are the 12 areas? Got an old guide so don't want to miss any!
Offwidth - on 26 Jun 2014
In reply to tatz45:

They are listed explicitly in the text of the challenge to help those using other guides. You actually get more points for using old guidebooks (but you can't cheat and sneak through no star routes in the old guide that are 3 stars now) and old guides give scope for some good themes.
deacondeacon - on 26 Jun 2014
In reply to spud_23:

Do we need to register in the morning or can we turn up afterwards?
Looking forward to it
Offwidth - on 27 Jun 2014
In reply to deacondeacon:

Anytime. Part of the 12 route logic was it could be done by late arrivals even between showers.
deacondeacon - on 28 Jun 2014
In reply to spud_23:

Thanks to everyone who helped organise the Stanage Festival. It was a great day and seemed like everyone was enjoying themselves.
Is this an annual event now then?
robw007 - on 30 Jun 2014
In reply to spud_23:

Yep - it was a good one - thanks to all involved in helping organise it.

It was well worth looking stupid all day for (well more stupid than usual anyway!).

signed - the winners but were too late to work out the score!
Offwidth - on 30 Jun 2014
In reply to robw007:
What did you climb? The top 3 teams were seriously impressive for such a manky day. Chimney Ferretts used age and an aged guidebook and a tick from each guidebook section and would have won in fancy dress. Sad Amongst Friends/Joker managed a full house of extreme no star onsights in clowns costumes from end slab to cowper stone (f*cking amazing) and if I was less rushed would have just won as I missed a bonus mystery climb they did (refs decisions on the pitch are final). Stafflettes shaded it, again in full costume, and with clever route choice from an older guide including mystery bonus on the High Neb girdle traverse, although they may have missed some points as well as I'm unclear on a few of their routes. There were fewer than 10 points betwen these three... how close is that? Snow White Bethlehem finished late and if they could have made it in on time with their final list they would have won as they also did the high neb girdle alongside various combinations of extremes and traverses.
Post edited at 16:17
Si_G - on 30 Jun 2014
In reply to Offwidth:

Is there a formal report on this? BMC TV were filming me on my Numpty course.
We got rain and midges...
andi turner - on 30 Jun 2014
In reply to robw007:

It's all fair and good saying you would have won it.... had you got your score in on time, but then again, I'd have won the lottery last week if I could hand in my numbers now.

Signed - The Stanage AND Chew Champions
dannyboy83 - on 30 Jun 2014
In reply to Offwidth:

Damn, the early morning hangover cost us!

Snow White Bethlehem
Offwidth - on 01 Jul 2014
In reply to dannyboy83:
Star performance in any respect. If you send me your route names, I can work out what you would have got in the perfect world where we are all lottery winners. Ditto for Andi. The clowns only wrote down 11 from their 12 so I'm missing the name of one of the two they did in the same area. Got grades and page numbers from all as required in the rules so its only potential points burnt.

The top theme btw was Graham H of this parish who put together wedding related names as he was ' tying the knot' later in the day. Barely managed to get started though as he was dragged off kicking and screaming by presumably the best man
Post edited at 10:25
deacondeacon - on 01 Jul 2014
In reply to Offwidth:

I'll try and work out which one we forgot to write down (one of the clowns). Which route was the bonus route out of interest? Thanks again for a brill day, if you can just forecast a breeze for the next one that would be great, the midges almost brought me to tears a couple of times.

Andi: well done mate (again), are you going to sort one out in your neck of the woods?
Offwidth - on 02 Jul 2014
In reply to deacondeacon:
Bonus routes had the same initials as me (SC), Lynn's fave 5 (p.293), the high neb traverse (double points as an apology as I'd missed it wasn't in the draft I checked of the latest guide) and any full routes (no highball joint boulder problems) at Cowper Stone Area or on End Slab/Start.

Next to Keep Peddling you had an E1 5c on p.204 possibly non-stop peddling (E2 5c) .
Post edited at 13:07

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